Plettenberg Powered Revo
 

Well, here it is! I'm almost completely finished with my Plett MAXXimum powered Revo. I ran it for the first time tonight, and WOW does it scream!!:D I've got some refining to do on the battery tray, but that's about all that is left.

I custom made the motor mount from 6063-T5 2" x 2" x 0.1875" aluminum angle. I used the rear factory motor mount bracket to support the shelf that the custom motor mount is mounted to. The battery trays are cut from an E-Maxx chassis and mounted on a shelf made from 7075-T6 0.080" aluminum clad. The Schulze 18.97 mounting shelf is made from 0.125" ABS plastic and is mounted using the rear shock mount with spacers and longer screws, and the rear body mount.

Here is a picture. I will post other pictures later.

Nice work!

Thanks! It took several days to create that beast!

Here is a link to some other pictures: Plett Powered Revo

It's cool! but why schulze over the alternative?

and what's the weight?

Good job! Have some fun.

My only concern would be the high position of the batts (but on the other hand your motor sits low, nice work there) and the limited acces to the shocks and stuff.

But other than that, it's great. Thanks for the pics

DAF

Nice work!

How is the handling?

Nice work!

sforsancho: I bought the Schulze 18.97 because it will control the 4-pole Plett. I'm anxiously awaiting the release of the Castle Creations MambaMaxx and then I'll sell my 18.97. As far as the weight, I have not weighed it, but I've compared it to a stock Revo and the weight felt like it was pretty close. I haven't used a scale yet.

Dafni: It did want to roll over pretty easily when I used the stock wheels and tires, but when I switched to the Proline Mamba wheels and Road Rage tires, the handling improved. Although, I will be making a modification to relocate the batts to the lower sides of the chassis. This will require the radio equipment to be located where the batts are now. And, I will have to invert the brake servo to the existing battery tray. This will open up the space on the sides of the chassis that I will need to remount the custom battery trays, so the CG will be lower.

Access to the shocks is a little difficult, but it's all worth it in the end!:)

Now for the good news...IT WHEELIES UNCONTROLLABLY!!!! I got a good charge on my 14 cell 3800 mAh Intellect pack and OH MY GOD it is INCREDIBLY FAST!!:D If you punch the throttle, the truck flips completely over and slides forward on the top of the body! My neighbors were blown away. Needless to say, throttle control is now a must. It also wheelies if you punch the throttle anytime during the range of first gear. (By the way, I'm using the stock Revo two-speed transmission with the forward only conversion and the stock mechanical brake, which works really good.) And this is only with 14 cells! I can't imagine what 16 cells would be like:oh Also, when the truck is at its top speed, the 40 series tires are severely ballooned out. Look out, I've created a Monster!:eek: Bring on the Nitro boys, cause I've got a little amperage to unleash!

Good to hear! Rock on!

It's a constant improving and progressing, I know. My Revo looks also quite different now, I should make a pic update.

Mine is really stable. I think I had not a single roll so far. Only time it rolls is when I powerslide in the dirt and the outer wheel gets caught in a treeroot or something. But honestly, my body still looks sparkling brand new, and I bash it alot.

Yeah, I once saw an BL-Revo with Batts on top like yours, somewhere. But the guy said it was too top-heavy.

Hey, the Plett matches the color of the chassis. Nice.

I'll try my new Lehner, but I already have an update in mind. ;) This time it will be some serious stuff.

I'm also thinking of adding a wing to mine.

Lookin good. Its cool to see more people converting the Revo to Brushless.

Nice work

dafnis sharted a REVOlution!

Ya, thats not quite the image or association I'd like to keep of Dafni's Revoxx. :eek:

squeeforever, have you thought about changing your avatar? That one's a bit obnoxious...

Compliantguy, post more pics if you got em.

Hey Dafni, do you have any pics of version 2 yet?

Squee, thanks for the rcognition. But Traxxas did it, actually ;)

Hi starscream! Well, V2 .... I'm waiting to get some parts. Did a mock-up of my original idea, and got another one. You know how it goes. Ideas, all day long.
But I can tell you this much: It will have a Gorilla single speed, and no center diff yet. Batt trays .... it will again be symetrical, but you'll have to see.

As for now, I kept myself busy with V1. Just got back from my first real run on the new Wanderer 7XL. Like it alot! Coolest motor I have tried so far. Amazing thing.
I'm working on and testing the current truck as much as possible, because I will go for a trip to sweden at the end of the month, and possibly race some nitros.

Yeah, I also got a wing mount coming my way. You gave me the idea!

obnoxious?? Will have to look this one up.
Speaking of avys, gotta find a new one myself.

Cheers, boys
DAF

You run that 7XL on 14 cells right Daniel? Glad you no longer have got that heat issue..

Ja, Rene. I wanted to talk to you about this, share my experience, but I don't want to hijack this thread.

Anyway... Yep, 14 cells, correct. And I like it very much. 'Nuff speed, torque and runtime. Amazing temp :Love: Somehow the perfect match for my truck and needs.

I will add fans nevertheless. Because cool is good, but cooler is better.

The ESC gets warmer than on the Lehner, true, but it was well in the save area, even after 2 packs back-to-back. (btw, first time I spend two packs without taking a break on BL)

AND, the blue motor matches the chassis. Sexy!

DAF

Well Daniel;

My emaildoor is wide open for you.. ;)

...and so is mine ;)

Compliantguy, what size do you have on the motorshaft? also, would you like to sell a motor mount or is it easy to make one? coild you please take on pic on it..

Thanks
Max

Hi 2evo, welcome to the forum!

Motor mounts can easily be made out of angled aluminium. A drill is all you need, basically.

2evo,

The motor shaft is 5mm. And, I have considered selling the motor mount, battery trays and mounting hardware. PM me and we'll work out something. Also, I have almost 8 feet of the 6063-T5 2" x 2" x 0.1875" aluminum angle, if you need extra material.

woah, thanks! i only want the engine mount, not the battery trays, so how much do you want for one shipped? if needs to be able to fit on a Fiegao 9L if you can.

The way I see it, you can mount any motor to Compliants plate. Well, anything with the popular 540 can, actually. Most motors use the same "footprint".

how did you secure the controller? double-sided tape?

Double sided tape should work. Velcro too.
I always use Velcro plus zip-ties.

whats velcro? i think i'll just use zip-ties^^
well, i cant seem to get a cheap controller(i wont have money to a new one before cristmas, LOL) anyone selling a 9918 or 9920?

Velcro: Don't know the swedish word, but look at the Gorilla Maxx Batterie straps for reference.
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...4-ST-BK&cat=11
You van get this stuff self-adhesive, very handy.

Like I said before, it's hard to find a used Warrior. (you could still sell your .26 and all the nitro junk :p just kiddin')

lol, i just got my .26, havent run 1 gallon yet=P

well, someone gotta have one!

oh, and that velcro, now i know what it is!

oh, the swedish word is kardborr
wierd, ey?

I used self-adhesive heavy duty velcro to attach the speed control. I flipped the truck over several times and the speed control never came loose.

How does $20.00 sound, plus shipping? Where would I be shipping the motor mount to?

2evo, with compliant's kit you would not even need a spare chassis-plate, if you want to switch from BL to nitro and back again. Correct, Compliantguy? I think you haven't done other mods to your chassis but a hole or two, right?

That's correct. I drilled 3 holes in the chassis to attach the motor mount.
Although, you will need to find a location to mount the speed control. For that, I made a shelf from 1/8" black ABS plastic and used spacers to mount it above the rear shocks. I used the orginal shock mounting holes with longer screws and I used the original mounting hole where the tuned pipe bracket was located.