MGM Compro Or Quark MonsterPro
 

I have an E-Maxx Neu 1515/1y. I have two 14 cell SPC NiMh packs and two 2s1p TrakPower LiPo packs. I tried my MM with an UBEC, but it won't work. So which controller should I get? What are the pros and cons? What if I wanted to run more cells, which would be better?

Thanks for the advice.

Mark

im happy with my quark. granted i have the heat sink modd and i use mechanical brakes. i have an additional 3000uf worth of caps on there as well. occasionally i run 6s and have had no problems yet

I Love my Quark on my jammin truggy - no problems whatsoever (knock on wood)

Quark, CC, and mgm should form a MGM 125MM! Put all the guts from a MGM into the case of a Quark, and take the pc programing software from the MM! The best controller ever!:na::party::rules:


I would get an MGM btw.

I would vote MGM as well. No heat problems at all, and very compact for their power handling. If not for the reverse glitching issue, they would be perfect controllers. If you don't need reverse, then buy an MGM. Just make sure you disable it in the programming.

What is the glitch?

At low speeds, if you hit the brakes, it will sometimes go straight into reverse. By low speeds I mean like 3 Mph.

I'm about to convert my savage and I was going to go Quark but I think I'll get the compro now. How good is the bec in the MGM? I have read that a ubec is not needed with it but I have read reports of them failing or is this just an issue on the smaller models.

All of the new MGM models have a Switching BEC. This is good. Basically, it has a UBEC built in.

Thanks for all the advice. Which MGM would you recommend in an E-Maxx, Neu 1515/1y? I am a basher and currently have two SPC 7 cell NiMh packs and two TrakPower 2s1p LiPo packs. I could get other batts.

The MGM Compro 160 should serve you well:
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...MM160183sHCS01

Any word on whether or not the MGM glitch is fixable. I plan on running the MGM in my Revo's but I can't do without reverse. Can the firmware on these new MGM controllers be updated without having to send them in?

I had the 160 and even with the reverse off it still had brake issues, and it also felt like the drag brake was on even when it was turned off. This was the 2.41 or 2.43 version I cant quite remember which one. The 3.5mm connectors got very hot (enough to almost melt the shrink tube) and would also pull out every once and a while. It was a pita to program too. I'm not sure about the newest version hopefully they fixed the above problems but its something you want to ask about before you buy one. I drive my trucks hard in race conditions for long periods of time. If you bash you might not even notice the above problems all but the pita programming that is.

mkrusedc I like the Quark but I had to mod it to keep it from heating up and blowing caps. The MM is excellent but it also has to be modified to be used with the Neu motors as you probably know.

I have the 16024 in my LST2 and recently did the forward-only conversion, locked the 2nd gear, and removed the mechanical brake. I know exactly what you are referring to regarding the glitching, but outside of testing inside your home will you really be going 3 mph and need to hit the brakes?

My resolution to the problem with the braking was to increase the dead-zone around neutral a little bit on the transmitter and decrease the exponential a little bit in the braking direction. That way a little accidental tap in the brake direction won't send you flying into reverse (at least too fast).

I do like the brake-lock feature on the MGM though, when the brakes do engage you have to return the throttle to neutral before it kick into going in reverse.

To bad the MGM doesn't have a reverse speed limiter the way the Castle esc's do.

I prefer the Mgm over the quark because it runs much cooler and doesn't need an external bec. As mentioned by others there is a little problem with reverse but I dont use reverse.

A little jealous of you guys with the newer 16024s!!! Mine is about 1.5 yrs old and doesn't have the built in BEC.

Thanks for the help! I appreciate it.

Does Mike have the 1624s? I did not see them on the site.

The new 16024's have no BEC either, only the 6s and lower controllers do. (16018, 22418)

So still not as good as having a true UBEC in the car anyway.

Yeah the 24's and 32's are Opto-coupled controllers. So you will need an external BEC.

What does the difference in the amp rating on the MGMs mean? Sorry if this seems obvious.

It is exactly how it looks. Though I will say it is the continuous rated current, not peak.

Would it be correct that the higher the amps the cooler the esc will be?

If you run 100A through a 100A controller and a 150A controller, the 150A controller should be cooler since it's not working to 100% capacity. Also, the higher current ESC usually has more FETs so the paralleled Rdson values are paralleled as well reducing resistance (and heat).

Thanks. I did quite underatand that but I got the general concept.