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MGM controller do I go for amperage or cell count??
OK here's the question, I'm in the process of puting together my Savage and am "concerned" with using an ESC to its bleeding edge... My Savage will likely be in the 12 to 15 pound range loaded with cells and ready to run and I'm planning on a 10\12XL for the near future and upgrading to a Nue 1515(not sure which one yet) when cash permits. My target voltage would be 19.8 (6s A123) to 26.4 (8s A123), do I go with the MGM 22418 or the MGM 16024??? I realize with higher voltage and the right motor you effectivly pull fewer amps, load to load, hum... which one to buy??
I also thought about saving myself some green and going with the MGM 16018. Not to mention this solution puts me closer to my NUE!! My concern with the MGM 16018 is that it's only rated to 6s, can I sneak by using 8s A123s with it, anyone know? Figured I'd poll the cumulative brain power on here before making an expensive mistake :-) :-) Thanks!! purp |
For reliability and warrenty (should you need it) reasons, I would select the model that matches the voltage you plan to use. The 16018 might be able to handle 8s A123's, but would be pushing it.
As far as the current rating is concerned, I would think the 16024 would be the way to go. At 8s A123 and 160A, that's over 4,000w (~5.6Hp)! Besides, I think the A123 cells will be the limiting factor current-wise. |
You should just be able to do 7S A123, but 8S is one cell over. Remember that A123s charge to 3.65V, while the controller is rated @ 25.5V max IIRC.
If I was choosing between the two, I would always go for higher V if its an doable option. w/ that hvy a truck w/ and XL motor, you will find you will be fighting motor heat before you hit those current limits. In fact I don't really see the point of the 224/18 controller w/ A123s. Even in 2p they recc no more than 140A max. I would aim for ~120A peak. With 7S A123s, that should be good for over 2300W. If you get a high eff motor, like a neu, that translates to alot of power to the ground. If you go to 9S2P (if you could even fit that on :) ) you have ~3000W. 18cells is alot of frickin cells tho. After a certain power level the batt just starts getting huge. ZPB has a 7S2P A123 with a neu on his maxx and seems like a very strong setup. Perhaps he could shed some light. Edit: Kinda contradicted myself there, but point is, more v is always better than amps (224A is silly imo, other than to keep a very cool controller) but you will be practically limited by the A123s if you go too high a cell count with still healthy amp draw. ~14cells is the practical limit else I'd be looking at hi end lipos. ==> 16018 would prolly fit the bill, unless you wanted to really push it to 8-9S on the 16024. How much power do you really want? |
I agree with BrianG. All those numbers on voltage are theoretical, till you plug in and see if you get smoke :lol:. At 3.65v, thats close enough to the nominal 3.7 of the LIPO's to consider the S count similar
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QUOTE: (BrianG:
For reliability and warrenty (should you need it) reasons, I would select the model that matches the voltage you plan to use. The 16018 might be able to handle 8s A123's, but would be pushing it. As far as the current rating is concerned, I would think the 16024 would be the way to go. At 8s A123 and 160A, that's over 4,000w (~5.6Hp)! Besides, I think the A123 cells will be the limiting factor current-wise.) - Thanks BrianG. I think I get the point, lol, I hadn’t considered the A123s to be the limiting factor, but it does make since as their discharge (amp) rate is less than a higher quality li-po. QUOTE: (Finnster: You should just be able to do 7S A123, but 8S is one cell over. Remember that A123s charge to 3.65V, while the controller is rated @ 25.5V max IIRC. If I was choosing between the two, I would always go for higher V if its an doable option. w/ that hvy a truck w/ and XL motor, you will find you will be fighting motor heat before you hit those current limits. In fact I don't really see the point of the 224/18 controller w/ A123s. Even in 2p they recc no more than 140A max. I would aim for ~120A peak. With 7S A123s, that should be good for over 2300W. If you get a high eff motor, like a neu, that translates to alot of power to the ground. If you go to 9S2P (if you could even fit that on :) ) you have ~3000W. 18cells is alot of frickin cells tho. After a certain power level the batt just starts getting huge. ZPB has a 7S2P A123 with a neu on his maxx and seems like a very strong setup. Perhaps he could shed some light. Edit: Kinda contradicted myself there, but point is, more v is always better than amps (224A is silly imo, other than to keep a very cool controller) but you will be practically limited by the A123s if you go too high a cell count with still healthy amp draw. ~14cells is the practical limit else I'd be looking at hi end lipos. ==> 16018 would prolly fit the bill, unless you wanted to really push it to 8-9S on the 16024. How much power do you really want?) - 3.65v, very true on those A123s, should have factored that into my equation, that said, don’t they level off rather quickly after a charge vs a li-po “holding” peak for a bit longer, if that’s the case that may give me some “safety margin” a quick heat up of the ESC at peak, followed by a leveling of current in the packs and a cooling off of the ESC (theoretically)… That’s kind of what I was thinking, take the higher voltage route of the 16024, keep the ESC VERY safe for the moment and then climb up, or be able to climb up in cell count (or convert to li-po) sometime in the future. As I need it\want it. For now I’m looking for a setup that will yield a solid 40 +\- mph out of my fat pig of a Savage :tongue: I’m also hoping to be able to put the thing on a diet once it’s built and I determine where I can lose the weight, lol… QUOTE: (Crazyjr: I agree with BrianG. All those numbers on voltage are theoretical, till you plug in and see if you get smoke . At 3.65v, thats close enough to the nominal 3.7 of the LIPO's to consider the S count similar) - Fingers crossed we get no smoke as long as I can control my urges for MORE POWER!! :oh: All in all I’m getting the idea that if cash is a consideration I should go with the 16018 and keep my cell count to 7S2P with one of the NEUs. If cash is available then I should go with the 16024 and have room to grow :yes::yes: You guys rock, thanks again for the solid input and keep me posted if anyone has any other GREAT ideas!! ZPB – Anything you’d add?? Seeing Finnsters note on your Maxx I’d love to have your input here. – Thanks! Thanks again, purp |
I have two of the 24160 controllers.. I love them.. If it were me, I'd go with the MGM 24.160, and a 12XL... and run 8S A123 2300mAH or 9S A123 2300 mAH (that's still a lot of power) and should be lower amperage draw.. but if you are able to get a 14XL, I'd rather use that..
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The A123s do peak @ 3.65 on the charger, but fall pretty quickly down to ~3.3v/cell until they dump. Even my 5S packs are about 17.8V (~3.5V/cell) after they come off the charger and rest for a bit. That why I said 7 cells should be just fine w/ the 18, but if you are thinking of leaving headroom for higher voltages later than the 16024 is the safe bet. You should be able to hit 40 tho on the 7S I would think, unless it really is that fat :)
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I've got a Revo 3.3 that I was setting up also, but just haven't been able to get the packs how I'd like them balanced and I can't stand the fact that I can't easily access the shocks after I mount the ESC over them... Guess I could look for other solutions for the ESC, just seemed a plate over the rear shocks, close to the motor, was the most simple. The Revo is 8XL with Quark 125, running dual A123 6S1P packs for 19.8v at 4600mah :-) Love your Revo by the way!! |
I think the 1515 1y would be a bit much on 7 and 8s, unless that's what your going for. I have the 1515 2.5d on 5s lipo in my e-maxx and it has a fair bit of power. It doesn't rev that high, but it has a lot of torque and I can vary the gearing a fair bit with out needing to worry about temps. This is it if you haven't seen it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMZeTJFA2f4 I don't know how much it weights, but it isn't exactly light.
Anyway I guess 6s A123 would be similar or slightly higher power (I don't have any experience with the A123's), so 7 and 8s would be crazy power. The 1y should be similar power on 4s lipo as the 2.5d on 5s lipo I think. So using the 1y on 8s A123 would VERY fast and probably pretty hard on the batteries, temps might be an issue as well. If it was me I'd probably get the 2.5d for 6s and occasional 7 and 8s, but if your using 7 or 8s for most of your normal bashing I'd look at the 1.5y as well (1500kv), since you have heavy car. The 3d (1360kv) would be a lot of power as well on the higher voltages, but it depends on what you expect from it from your car I guess. |
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Any chance you might be able to get the weight of your Maxx? I'd love to be able to compare it to my Savy and see where I might land power to performance wise?? I think my initial estimate of 15 pounds was probably grossly high, I'm leaning more towards 13 now as the assembled roller with all but batts and final mounting is just at 10 pounds :smile: My thoughts: 13 pound Savy 3 spd Neu 1515 1.5y 7s or 8s (A123 3.3\3.65v per cell - call it 3.5v nominal) MGM 16024 gearing 16\47 (ish) pending final testing My ultimate goal is to run at 40 mph aprox, with reliable power, "low" temps and solid performance that I don't have to let sit and cool for 30 minutes between runs... Thanks, purp |
I've seen quite a few posts lately by newer guys asking questions about motor and battery choices. They are asking a lot of pertinent questions, but are passing over what has already been tried and proven.
I am far from being the resident pro on brushless conversions, but I have built about 8 of them so far, and have learned a few things from others and through trial and error. I don't think that anyone would disagree with me when I say that there is sort of a formula for a successful truck conversion. 30,000 rpms is a good target to aim for with your motor and battery combo. There are also other considerations to keep in mind, like weight. Adding voltage is usually a good thing, but not at the expense of adding significant weight to your vehicle. A monster truck that handles like a boat is no fun to drive. A couple of combos that come to mind that make winning setups in trucks are: 1. a Neu 1515/1y on 14.8v works very well and stays cool 2. a Neu 1515/2.5d on 14.8 or 18.5v also works very well and is very flexible As for the A123 cells, I like them, but they do have their drawbacks. They are large and heavy and are limited in the amount of current that they can deliver in 1P configuration. I tried a pack of 5S1P A123 and although it ran OK, it really lacked the punch that I was hoping to get. For 5S, I think that a 2P configuration would really be needed. What I don't know is how much voltage you would have to run before the current demands are such that a 1P configuration would suffice. You also have to keep in mind that the benefits of the added voltage will also diminish as more cells are added due to weight. The A123s weigh 70 grams each and are the size of a C cell battery. If you just want to stick with A123s, I'd look into going with either a 5S2P or maybe even a 6S2P setup and get a motor that will get you around 30K rpms on your voltage. Just keep in mind too that whatever voltage you do get, you'll need to charge it. What I've said above is just my general opinion for off road trucks for extended running. Setups for specific purposes would probably deviate. I'm getting ready to start running a 1515/1.5d on 5S lipo for drag racing. Not very practical for off roading or extended running, but it's gonna haul butt. |
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I've always liked, not loved, my Maxxs running HVs and stepped into an initial Savage running an 8XL on 14.8v but it got so blasted hot that I wanted to flip to something lighter and more "controllable" when it came to temps and cooling off. Running my Revo also on the 8XL with a Quark has proven to be lots of fun, but I miss my Savage :-( Not seeing tons of info in the Savage forum and having it weigh CONSIDERABLY more than my Revo, I "lost my way" in planning. That said, I should have been more clear on my A123 situation, lol, all my packs will be XS2P (X being number of cells) realizing that they pull down about 60\70 amps in 1P config scared me when I started looking at the weight of my Savage and the Savage lends itself nicely to dual packs, one on each side and also allows you to tend them to the front of rear for weight transfer if need be, which I like. My Revo ran all 12 cells down one side, which didn't bother me greatly, but it did make for one large pack vs the weight and balance of the motor, esc and electronics on the other side, lol... For charging I'll be hitting these with the TC1010 from Thunder Power, I LOVE the charger and it has always treated me good in return :-) Question though, the 2.5d on 14.8 seems a bit "low" for RPM vs the weight of a larger MT? Pushing it to 18.5 takes it right to the sweet spot, but I was always under the impression and I know we're splitting hairs here, that you wanted to see about 35k rpm out of the motor and with the Neus maybe just a hair more? Hum, considering your thoughts, and my trucks weight, maybe the "perfect" setup for my Savage would be: Dual 6S1P A123s Neu 1515 2.5d - 37k (ish) @ peak charge MGM 16018 My only concern again is weight; believe me I've even thought of dropping to a 1500 kv motor or going to a 1521 and taking the cell count up and going with the 16024... Ohhhh what to do, lol :neutral::neutral: What I want is a truck that runs well, stays cool and doesn't handle like a boat :wink: GREATLY appreciate everyones input, if I didn't have total faith in you guys I wouldn't have asked. Thanks again, purp |
The Neus are less sensitive to higher/lower rpm and load than your typical XL. I've run my 1512 2d (2600kv) Neu on 4s and 2s (for kicks) geared high and geared low and it seems to run cool no matter what...
IMO, the 1515 series will be PLENTY for a Savage. I would shoot for a kv/voltage combo that hits around 40k rpm and gear accordingly for the speed desired. |
purp,
I'm only using the 30K as a reference. From personal experience, that has been a good number to shoot for. Running my 1515/2.5d in my 8ight T on 5S is nuts. It has lots of power, but then on 4S, geared at about 15/48 or so, is a good race setup and does well for bashing too, without the insane power. Of all of my motors, the 1515/2.5d is my favorite. Oh, and not to be presumptuous or anything, but if you've only messed with Feigao motors, you really can't anticipate what the performance of the Neu motors will be based on your experince with the Feigaos. If you set your system up right, heat will not be an issue with the Nue motors. I don't even take a temp gun with me any longer when I go out and run. |
maybe the 4 pole motor has so much more torque at the start than the 2 pole motors.... maybe that's why they run cooler?.. just a thought... I've noticed using a 4 pole motor doesn't really cog...
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BrianG, point taken on the 1515, I too think probably a wise choice, not to mention more cost effective than the 1521s and probably as well a better fit for the chassis.
AAngel, you right, the Fiegaos are pretty much all I've experienced in an XL. I've ran a few Ls, still Fiegaos, but certainly no comparison to the XLs and I've run a few Novaks, again no comparison to an XL. So on that note, your right, I probably have no idea what I'm in for from a quality motor, but I sure looking forward to finding out :intello: Any idea what your 8ight T weighs in at? aqwut, interesting thought and does make some since. Hum, wonder if that's true or if it really just comes down to quality of the windings, mags, etc??? purp |
BrianG, point taken on the 1515, I too think probably a wise choice, not to mention more cost effective than the 1521s and probably as well a better fit for the chassis.
AAngel, you right, the Fiegaos are pretty much all I've experienced in an XL. I've ran a few Ls, still Fiegaos, but certainly no comparison to the XLs and I've run a few Novaks, again no comparison to an XL. So on that note, your right, I probably have no idea what I'm in for from a quality motor, but I sure looking forward to finding out :intello: Any idea what your 8ight T weighs in at? aqwut, interesting thought and does make some since. Hum, wonder if that's true or if it really just comes down to quality of the windings, mags, etc??? purp |
A123s can be tricky to use as they just come in one cell type. With lipos you can just pick a voltage and then decide what size lipos to get from there. A123s is the other way around. Example, my new little toy that came today:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...s/0e8a68d1.jpg Its an MGM 9032. I wanted to keep my A123s, but needed a reasonable cell config to do it. I'm switching my 5S2Ps to a 10S1P setup, and am looking at getting a 1515/2Y (1100kv) to go with it. I could have kept it at 5s2p and gotten a 1y with a 16018, but I wanted to go HV and super eff and cool. Any more than 10 cells it starts getting heavy and hard to fit. This controller will also allow me to run upto 2 xtra cells for some insane action @ 40V, but keeping amps below 60A hopefully. Its "only" a 1700W system, but should be more powerful than a 2000W+ XL system due to the eff increases. A 6S lipo equiv is hard to do, as that is 14 cells A123, so really the next node seems to be 10S so you don't have to have a paralleled cell. |
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Is the logic that the higher the voltage the general rule is the lower the aperage, weight to weight and power to power, hence your choice of the 9032 on 10S? What's your thought on 7S2P (dual 7S1P packs) on the 1515 1.5y, 1500 kv at 25.5v = 38225 rpm with 13 pound "hanging off of it"? Would I be better suited to dump the A123s and roll back to li-pos.. Thinking out load I used to run li-pos, Maxamps and it got real expensive, real fast, all I do is bash and it seemed every other week, even protected, I had a puffed cell and another dead li-po... The A123s being "bullet proof" caught my attention real quick and they have decent power for what they are. Man, all in all brushless isn't that complicated when it comes right down to it, but when it comes down to spending 275\375 for an ESC and another 280\300 for a nice motor, wow, one really hates to make a mistake, lol... It also appears, using the speed calc, that 16\47 gearing with 2nd gear of my 3 spd trans and "maxx" tires, 4.25 inch or so, only nets me 30 ish +\- mph, I'm not looking for 100 mph, but 700 out of pocket for 30 mph seems steep... Savage diffs - 13\47 Savage 3 spd trans figured in second gear 7S2P A123 - factored at 3.6v Nue 1515 1.5y "maxx" tires 4.25 inch - I may be off on this, should have measured before I calculated and posted, apologizes if I am. 16\47 pinion\spur Thanks! purp |
I'm thinking he means 14 cells is the limit because the battery pack starts becoming quite heavy.
Higher voltage creates higher current on a given motor. The idea is to select a motor with a higher wind (therefore higher resistance) making for less current. As you can see though, higher voltage means heavier packs even though they may be just 1p. When you start getting really high voltage (over 6s) regular lipos start becoming more and more appealing because of their reduced weight. I was hesitant to get lipos at first (opted for emolis at the time), but now I have them, I certainly wouldn't go back to NiMH. Safety isn't the forefront of my thoughts as long as they are charged/discharged correctly, and reasonable attempts at protecting/securing them are implemented (no tape or zip-ties for me!). No, BL isn't really complicated, but the initial cash outlay can be steep. That is why we are all here; to help people make the best decision based on their budget and their needs/desires. Maxx tires are closer to 5.6", which can make a HUGE impact on overall speed. And don't forget to account for ballooning! That too can make a substantial difference. Using 5.65" for the tires, I get 25.34mph in 1st, 31.74mph in 2nd, and 39.12mph in 3rd. And since you are using the 3 speed tranny, you can gear the spur/pinion more aggressively since first gear is so low. I don't know what spur/pinion options are available for the savage, but I would gear up a bit. You should easily be able to attain 45-50mph with that Neu motor. |
Yeah, basically I say 14 A123 cells is approaching a practical limit on 1/8ths is due to weight and space. Ea cell weighs ~72g, so a 14c pack is 1kg (2.2lbs). A pig by lipo stds, however a NIMH cell weighs 65-70g as well, and no one has failed using 14 cell packs, esp for a basher. 14 A123s are quite big tho, so it can be a trick to fit them (if you have the cells you can see what will fit.) I can only fit 10 to 12 cells on my Revo w/o having to redo the layout, so depends what will fit. I don't think I would go over 16cells tho as a basher.
Ok, so we have a range of cells we have to work in, question is then how to utilize them. For your beefy Savvy, I think a target peak power of 2000W would make a nice and controllable basher (40 +/- as you said.) Now I'm basing this on exp w/ my Revos which is ~10lbs, and all the radar and ET data I have on them. It is a single speed tho, so as Brian said, a 3spd may not require so much, but lets aim for that anyway. To get 2000W, you need alot of amps or volts, or a nice amt of both. Since A123s are limted to the M1 cell, you can do either 1p or 2P. 60A/ per cell discharge (120A in 2p) gives me 2.8V/cell on my ET. They are spec'd at 70A max, and I'll I've heard about high amp draws on 1P is that it lacks punch, so this limit seems reasonable. So, to get 2000W, you need either ~33V loaded in 1P (@60A) or ~16.5 loaded @120A. That's 12 cells either way, you might be able to get away w/ 10 cells @ 70A, but that's pushing them. 10S would be the lower limit then of a 1P config. Now w/ 14 cells, g/l finding a controller to do that in 1P (50V max) and charging would be a pita, but 7s2p would be real nice. You could get 2000W at only 100A peak, or crank it up to 120A for big power. Now, the question is how to select the motor you want for the amp draw you are aiming for?.... that's pretty tricky, but the RPM estimates are helpful. Otherwise you hope someone has ET data of that config. To do the RPM calc I use the nominal voltage (3.3V), as that's seems convention and I've lined up my est.s based on that. No hard rules tho. For the 1500kv motor, that gives 35K. For a 1700kv; 39K. What I see from there is that either would be a good chioce, as the 1700 being on the powerful side and a bit hotter, and the 1500 a bit more sedate, but still strong. This is where the hard choices come in, and thoughts about what you are reasonably trying to acheive. As a very rough guide, doing the same w/ my 8XL and 5S lipo and 4S lipo setups (as linked in sig, don't worry about the wheelies tho, diff chassis, notice top spds): 5S is ~38K and 4S is ~30K using rpm rule (cell @ 3.7V.) So..... The Neu is much more powerful and eff than an XL, so even more power to the ground. Your truck is heavier, but does have a multi-spd, so they way wash. Therefore, by my theories, the 1700 would be a pretty balistic motor on 7S2P A123 in the Savvy. It may over draw the A123s as well (my 120A was measured on 8XL/ 5S A123 &/or 4S lipo.) For ~40 mph, the 1500 seems like the best choice, and may quite likely put you over 40mph. If going 6S2P A123, the 1700 would be on order. 5S2P A123 may be hard pressed to give you all the power you need, but its on the edge. There's not a ~1900 kv motor either. 1700 would be kinda slow, and the 1Y (2200 kv) gives good spd, but I'm not sure how the batts would like it, and may run a touch hot. Perhaps someone has direct exp. Rinse and repeat for other batt and motor combos. This is all theory (based on data measurments and practical experience tho,) so no guarantees until you actually try it. Holy crap that was a disertation... |
One other thing. To get #'s that match my radar, I typically use ~7" on the tires. The ballooning def has an effect, and kv values are not exact. As you go faster, more balloon is needed.
Otherwise I use 3.5v/cell lipo, or 2.8V/cell A123. These are known, measured values under load. If they are quite alot higher or lower, you prolly don't have a properly sized batt for your app. EX: Differential Ratio: 2.8461538461538462 Transmission Ratio: 2.2941176470588233 Other Ratio: 1 Spur Tooth Count: 40 Pinion Tooth Count: 16 Total Voltage: 14 (either 5S A123 or 4S lipo, calcs the same) Motor KV: 2084 Tire Diameter (inches): 7 Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.5 : 1 Total Ratio: 16.32353 : 1 Tire Circumference (inches): 21.99 inches (558.58mm) Total Motor Speed: 29384.4 RPM Vehicle Speed: 37.49 MPH (60.22km/h) Effective Speed Rate: 2.66mph/V (4.27kmh/V) Effective KV Value: 2084 Before I taped the tires I got 40-41mph reliably (more balloon) now its actually a bit slower @ 38mph on radar, but is much more controllable. IMO, less than 6" for normal maxx tires will under est the top spd. These are w/ mashers, so YMMV. |
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I've been thinking of ebaying my A123s and going back to Li-Pos, but I think I'll give them a fair shot in this new truck before I take that route. Not to mention my wife would have me skinned and hung out back if I dumped them and spent more money having just picked them up, lol... I was initially using a simple "L" frame for my packs, hung from each side of my Savage using a plate similar to Serums, looks like I'll have to rebend myself some "U" frames and start protecting my investment!! |
Lol, I have been wrong a number of times, so don't think I'm infallible. :smile:
Don't get me wrong, I'm not suggesting that you sell the A123s and get lipos because the M1 cells ARE nice. It's just that those cells get a little heavy once you get to the high cell counts. If you decide you want really high speeds, ballooning can be as high as 0.5" to 1" depending on the tire. You plug that into the calc and watch the top speed get up there fast! |
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Now it's just the motor, I'm leaning towards the 1500 Kv Neu for the safety factor, but haven't totally ruled out the 1700 Kv either. To your point, using the 3 speed should give me some flexibilty in gearing and take some of the initial load off the 1700 Kv should I go with it, or at least that's my thinking anyway. Thougts on that? Thanks for the great info, purp |
Well I'm always looking for more info so I can make better predictions, but they are always just that.
Check out ZPB's Revo thread in here. He is using a 1700kv Neu/7S A123, albiet a smaller 1512. He's was only pulling a max of 80A, but on a lighter Maxx. In on 1P, the lighter Revo is getting a bit more v-drop. If you stick to 2P, you should be good upto ~140A, so I think the 1700kv 1515 would be a monster, but very doable, esp on a 160A ESC (I'm upgrading my prediction ;) ). I have no idea if the tranny will handle it (not my dept.) but the motor and batts should give you a kickass setup. |
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Now all I have to do is worry about that tranny, lol... Fingers crossed it holds up long enough for me to get things situated, tested and have at least some fun with it before it goes south on me. Worst case, it looks like I'll be scowering the net for steel\alloy gears for that three speed, or looking for some other creative way to slide a "slipperential" solution in there. Just thinking out loud back to what you mentioned, with the three speed and first gear being so low, I should have more pinion options making me think the 1700Kv should be fine as I can gear up or down based on heat, seem reasonable? Now all I have to do is wait for Mike to get the MGMs and my 2.5 back in stock :cry::cry: I think the last thing I need to iron out and I may give Serum a ping for this one, is a creative motor mount. I originally dropped my stock motor plate down by about 3/16 of an inch or so, maybe slightly more and used a simple "clamp ring" setup to attach the motor to the mount using the stock adjuster holes. It worked VERY well, but is a challenge to adjust the mesh on due to its very close proximity to the tvps... Loved Serums adjustable setup, but as of now it appears that it may have been a one off solution, I'm surprised Mike doesn't yet have an offering for the Savy, but I guess we have to work off of demand :-( GREATLY appreciate all of yours, BrianGs and the gangs info and input on my project and please, please don't hesitate to "smack me in the head" if you see me wondering off course :smile: If I ever get this finished (my wife just hates me spending money on RC, but hey, you have to pay to play right) I'll certainly post pics! |
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