6s Revo. What Neu?
 

I am putting a 6s setup in my revo and need help as to which neu would be best. I want a solid 40 mph (but really nothing above 45) and to run cool. I will be using an MGM controller.

Also what pinion with the ofna 51t spur is recommended as well?

Have you seen Brian's motor selector?

http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_motor_selector.htm

I would say the 1700kv 1515 is a good choice.. based on how it runs on 4s in my truggy. One of the reasons I went with this motor is that it would do well on higher volts once I go that route.

Either the 1515 2.5D (1700kv) or the 1515 1.5y (1500kv)
Assume your using the e-maxx trans with the 51t spur? And stock revo diffs?
2.5D 51/16 should give around 40 mph.
2.5D 51/18 or 19 should give around 45 mph.
*51/16 will not fit when using the stock e-maxx motor plate and a finned neu. The motor hits the trans before the gears mesh properly, there are ways around it, but they're not that pretty.
1.5y 51/18 or 19 should give around 40 mph
1.5y 51/21 should give around 45 mph.
*With 51/21 you may need to extend the slot on the e-maxx motor plate a mm or two, because the motor will be so far from the trans.

I race the 2.5D on 5s geared for only 35 mph, but it barely gets warm. I've done a bit of high speed bashing with it geared 51/20 on 5s and 6s in a maxx. On 5s it's really fast and powerful with that gearing, on 6s it was actually getting kind off scary even in a large grass sports field....I love that motor, but I think the 1.5y may be better suited if you only plan on running 6s, mainly because the 2.5D has more power than you need for what you want. Temps weren't an issue. Both will work well though if you gear to suit want you want.

Thanks for all the help. It looks like the 1.5y for me. The motor finder of BrianG's is great but still left me undecided. Patrick, you really narrowed it down well.

I will be using the stock E tranny with stock revo diffs but will be upgrading to the hybrid buggy diffs.

When you change to buggy gears you'll have to go up a pinion or two to keep the same final drive ratio, which means you'll have a pretty big pinion to do 45mph. The motor plate will need a little bit of moding, but I think you could do it. I was using 65/20 for racing. The motor hangs off the side of the plate a bit, because of the size of the spur, but it worked ok, so I'm sure 51/23 is doable.

I can have my machinist make a new plate if necessary, so that part is all good. I just want this setup to be reliable and run fairly cool, which is why I am going high voltage in the first place.

I'll second going with the lower kv motor. I run a 1515/2.5d in my 8ight T. On 5S, it runs pretty cool. On 6S, the temps get up to around 180 when bashing.

Wow, you must run it pretty hard, I've never had mine above 122f even on 6s, but I suppose it wasn't that hot and I didn't do a lot of hard stop-starting.

Is western Australia cooler than souther Louisianna?

I don't know, I haven't been to Louisianna :wink:
It can get pretty hot in summer, but we haven't had summer yet, so most of my running with the neu has been on days in the 70's to mid 80's I think. I'll see how it goes in the next few months.

holy crap.
we just got outta summer.

i leanred something like that im school... about the world and oppsosites have diff climates and blah idk!
but i just never though it actually did lol

2.5d on 6s would be insane.

Ha, I remember learning that in early primary school.

The 2.5D is crazy on 6s. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoOlsYrUF5s I'm not sure if I had it at full speed or not. I had to be real easy on the throttle otherwise it would just wheel stand. Maybe I should try gearing my truggy up on 6s (brushless stuff is in that now), because that won't wheel stand as much.
But I think 1700kv 2.5D is best suited to 5s for normal use, and for normal use on 6s the 1500kv 1.5y might be a bit more suited.

for 6s I would go with the 1515 1.5y (1500kv) or a 1515 3d.

It really depends on what you want. I setup for two different purposes. My track setup is relatively mild. I run either a 1515 2.5d or 1512 1.5y on 4S for racing and the same motors on 6S for plain insanity. 5S is sort of a middle of the road setup.

I've been running brushless long enough that the 2.5d on 5S doesn't impress me, although it still impresses others that aren't used to seeing it run. The 2.5d on 6S still impresses me.

TexasSP, just be sure that what you are asking for is what you really want. If this is going to be your first "good" brushless setup, you really do have to keep a couple of things in mind. This first is that the Revo (or really any nitro truck) isn't built to accommodate the power of a brushless system. The second is that you are going to wear parts out more quickly.

I haven't had much time for organized racing lately, so much of my running has been bashing either on the track or off, so most of my running has been on 5S or 6S. These days, I've noticed that I'm completely rebuilding diffs frequently. Very frequently. Ring and pinion gears are expensive. For the average guy that wants his truck (buggy) to be dependable, a milder setup is usually in order.

Another thing to think about is the battery configuration that you've chosen. One of the big things about going with higher voltage is efficiency and the related reduction in heat. I've done quite a bit of experimenting with 4S, 5S and 6S configurations. I have more motors and speed controllers sitting in my shop than some people will own in a lifetime. I've found that with the better equipment such as using Compro controllers with Neu motors (both of which run cool in the first place) running higher voltages isn't always necessary.

Personally, for most circumstances, I think that 5S is enough. Just yesterday, we were running a Neu 1512 1.5y (1900kv motor) on 5S with a Compro controller in an XT8 at the track. This is a nice setup. Very smooth and powerful with good temps. The controller just decided to self destruct for no particular reason. I've found that this is just one of those things that happens every once in a while.

Not knowing whether the controller just went or if the motor went and took the controller with it, we dropped a 1515 1.5d (2700kv) in the truck with another compro and ran that on 4S. It ran great. The temps were a little higher, but nothing to be concerned about. We even ran it on 5S, but it was just way too much.

My point is this...6S packs are expensive and you may not need all of that voltage.

I am not worried as much with expense as with reliability. Do you think I will be ripping diffs apart constantly on 6s with the 1515 1.5y?

All I really want is a solid 40 mph. Your help and advice is much appreciated.

Stock diffs would be lucky to last 5 minutes, upgraded diffs would last maybe 10 minutes. The RCM drop-in 1:8 conversion is the only option for bullet proof diffs really- not cheap, but cheaper in the long run since it saves replacing broken diffs every run....

I don't think you've go through diffs that fast really...

Ditto. I'm still using the totally stock diffs in my Revo and they are still fine (for now). As long as you don't totally mash the throttle all the time, they seem to hold up OK.

Oh oh, I always mash the throttle a lot on everything :lol::rofl::whistle:

Well, I think he should go with 6s lipo setup. And I agree with the 1515/1.5Y choice, that should be perfect amount of power and feel in my opinion... I am thinking of getting that motor for myself for my 7s2p setup.

Personally I would get the 1515 1.5Y for using 6s only.
You'll have to use 20t pinions and bigger with the 51t spur to get speeds over 40mph as it is with the e-maxx trans and 1/8th diffs. Using the 3D and even using a 25t pinion you'll only be able to gear for ~43mph.
The big pinions are a bit annoying to use, because the pinion is so big it covers the screws that hold the motor on, making it harder to set the mesh properly.

I am considering a setup like mkrusedc's and running 4s since that works well for him and seems to be more in line with the speeds I need. After seriously considering everything, I think 35-40 is a better top speed range for me. As long as the setup is reliable.

Mine has been very reliable. If you have seen my videos :oops: those are stock diffs with 3.3 shafts and a stock slipper. I did not even put a flat spot on the motor shaft for the pinion screw. I don't know why it is holding together so well, maybe I am just lucky, but I have about a dozen runs of heavy bashing with that setup.

:mdr: Mark