Screws
 

Does FLM include all the needed hardware for their parts? Should I buy a screw set(suggestions please)?

I just got a pair of hybrids and they were complete with all the screws and hinge pins (been warned hinge pins are soft) to install skids, put the hybrids cases together and a few extra.

The flm extended chassis had an antenna mount, batt straps, two pieces for the steering posts and enough screws to install the chassis braces. Nothing for mounting the bulks or towers.

I would get a screw kit - especially if what you're converting has the orig OEM screws. I hate the OEM screws and the 1st thing I do when I get a new rc is to replace all screws with alloy steel hex heads. I've been buying kits from Tony -

http://www.tonysscrews.com/main.sc

Don't buy stainless ones, they are weaker and the heads will round out after you've used them a few times.

You haven't broke or stripped one of them yet?

I use Tony's as well. All his stuff is class 12.9 alloy. The best around.

Anyone use these? How do they stack up to Tony's?

I'd look at RC Screwz.

I was told not to get stainless. Why?

The AP Hexheads look pretty good IMO.

You should stay away from stainless, its softer than steel, and it strips very easily.

I have a few assorted stainless and haven't had a problem, to be honest.

But compared to steel, stainless is weaker.

Screwing,
A subject near and deer to my heart.
All 3 companies put out a great product.

Fact is if you bend a screw put out by any of these 3 companies chances are the screw is the least of your concerns.

9 of of 10 times a head is stripped on a screw from any of these 3 companies its not the screws fault. Its normally the tool or the gorilla operating the tool.

Screw sizes on most of the RCs are over kill and well engineered to be that way. Just think how large the screws would be on 1:1 if they were to scale.

There are a lot of garbage garage screw companies selling on E-Bay and on the net in general and is best to go with one of the top 3 people listed. They have all been around for a while and are dialed in to what we need.

Im fond of RCScrewz.
Sure SS is softer (Not weaker) then the steel screws but as I stated above if Im bending a screw it the least of my worries. I like the fact that that they also have a plastic case that I can toss in my pit box and they have MANY extra screws in the kit.

Im new to this forum. Many of the names here are familiar to me and Im sure that several users here know that Im an RC ScrewZ distributor. I just wanted to disclose that to those that dont know. Im not plugging nor trying to sell them here, just adding my opinion on the thread and being honest as how my opinion is based.

Thanks for the input Eddy. Honesty is always apperciated.

Yea, I think I'm gonna get a couple of the RCScrewz kits. $26 for 270+ screws isn't bad when the other kits that are from $25-35 only have about 180 screws...

I don't want to be stepping on toes, but stainless steel screws are not as strong as 12.9 alloy steel.

You can easily look up the specs online typical stainless tensile strength -100-120,000psi (the specs on SS list a range, not a given number). Grade 12.9 alloy steel tensile strength is 175,000psi.

When I got back into rc from a long absence, I came to hate those phillips headed wood screw things that rtrs used to always come with. I bought several SS kits and got rid of those things. Taking stuff apart to upgrade and maintain, I was running into heads that were rounding out using my Thorp drivers after 5 or 6 cycles. I don't have that problem with 12.9 grade fastners.

The prices look pretty close to me if you compare kits for the same rc, the numbers of screws looks similar too. I do like the box idea, but its not a deal maker given the other differences.

Your right about that it's the gorilla or tool, but I want a screw that will last, and what I meant by weaker was it stripped out more easily than some steel kits, I'm not very easy on my rc's and they break alot so I need a screw that won't strip after very little use. I don't want to put anybodys opinion down but I'm sort of leaning towards steel.

I know Jamie is working on FLM screw-kits. They use REAL 12.9 grade screws..

Cool, Any Idea on a release date?

Nope, i can't seem to get it touch with Jamie anymore. Maybe you can try.

Toe stepping?
Hell no,
People make their decisions and run with them. What best for one person or project isnt best for another. Its great that there are several QUALITY companies for us to choose from. Quite honestly, Im not using my own screws on my Gorilla project. Not because of any quality issues, they simply dont fit my needs. I choose Tonys for the project.

Why?
Quality screws that are BLACK.
I didn't want SS Bling on an all black ano chassis.

I have never been let down by RCS, Tony, or Hex.
Choose what works for you.

True dat. Personally, I do wrench on mine alot and change things a good bit, but if you aren't some brute about it and use good tools, you shouldn't even strip aluminum screws, much less stainless steel.

Eddy, I think SS screws on an all black chassis would look pretty good actually. Kinda opposite the usual since its usually a silver chassis and black screws.

Thanks for being open minded - I've been in several sh** storms on other forums over screws. Some folks get very worked up about screws! Maybe passionate is a better description??

I'm an ME (31yrs exp), so the tech side colors things a bit for me and my choices. I do have an HB Lightning Pro1 that's done up with SS button heads and purple collars for bling.

SCREW EM! :whistle:

Ive been in business and in the human race way to long to know that one shoe doesn't fit every foot. I do have my opinions but understand that they are just that, mine.

:rofl::rofl:

FYI, stainless steel is "stainless" because of the addition of chromium. This has a side effect that it cannot be heat treated like 12.9 steel (which gives it strength), but conversely 12.9 is more prone to becoming rusty (which explains why they always coat it with something).