What do you think of my buggy project?
 

I'am to build a pure racing buggy, and i want you let me know what you think.
First, i'am not yet decided which buggy i'll take beween the Mugen MBX5R, the Associated RC8 and the X-Ray XB8EC, but for now, my heart beat a little faster for the Mugen:angel:
Next, my setup will be this one: MGM 16018, Neu 1515, 1Y (i normally take a 1512, but i've ever the 1515 that i've remove from my revo to swap it nitro), an EVO25, 5000mAh, 4s flightpower li-po.

My goal is to keep the clutchbell system and the stock mechanical brake system.
I want to take a RCM revo motor mount amd bolt it on the frame of the buggy, just right behind the rear center diff mount.
Next i'll take the Tekno RC Elektri-clutch adapter with the Tekno RC new compact flywheel, and use a revo 16 tooths clutchbell with MIP clutch shoes.
I'll install a servo just behind the steering servo, to keep the mechanical brake.

My goal is to build a racing machine only, and keep as possible the nitro trigger feeling..

Comments please if somebody here have ever did it with an 1/8 scale buggy.

I'll keep you inform of the projet with pics ASAP.

David

I'm missing the hyper 8.5 pro in your list..

Comes with wicked diffs..

Please ditch the clutch, it's completely point and useless on a brushless car.

Why did you say that clutch is completly useless in a brushless setup??

And please tell me what you mean by "wicked diffs" on the Hyper 8.5.
I'am french and somes english xpression i don't understand.

But for the 8.5, i'am not realy interest, for the only reason that Ofna is always change the model and specs of the 1/8 scale buggy. They have too much buggy available, i prefer a compagnie who focus on only one buggy model like mugen or x-ray.

But i'am certain that the 8.5 is a very competitive buggy.

They use the same diffs as what UE calls 8 spiders, the ones with the aluminum houses and the 6 little spider gears.

OK thank you Serum for the diff, you'are right, it's a Spyder diffs, and it' bulletproof, but you not tell me why you said that clutchbell is unecesary on a brushless....
The main reason why i want a clutchbell, is when i land a big jump, i want that the clutch (and not the motor) take the big "spin" of the center diff when the wheel touch the ground.
When you hit the brake in the air to "nose down" the buggy, the wheel stop to turn, and when the buggy hit the ground, the wheel re-start to spin and give a big "hit" to the motor, so with a clutchbell, you eliminate this problems.

My goal is to make it very reliable.
And if i don't like the clutchbell system, i'll simply re-instal the right motor mount for the buggy and return to a standard pinion/spur setup.
And more easy, the tekno Electri-clutch have a 5mm shaft where the clutchbell bearing, so i'll can leave this in place and simply put the standard pinion on the tekno elektri-clutch adapter.

The clutch increases the overall rotating mass of parts that the motor will have to turn...and therefore places additional strain on your motor. My preference is to keep my setups as simple as possible...Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS)...just another American slang term for you to put in your toolbox...:lol:

You're right, but please, the little extra "strain and rotating mass" of a clutchbell setup, on a Neu 1515 motor, who normally can push a 13lbs++ monster truck over 50m/h, will not (this is what i think, correct me if i'am wrong) place a big "stress" on the motor on this little 7.5 lbs 1/8 scale buggy:eyes:

+++++I don't have to buy the RCM revo motor mount, i'll simply use my RCM Mugen motor mount, and place it just behind the stock center diff mount.

I just try it and it work like a charm:yipi:

:oops:Now i must absolutly take the Mugen MBX5R.....sorry RC8:neutral:another time for you!!!

I don't know what's this mean, i'am married with 3 kids:lol::rofl:

Thought that the hyper 8.5 only had the 6 gear diff in the center and had std diffs in the front and reas cases?

Not to step on your toes Serum, but the clutch setup in the tekno revo works well. I have quite a bit of time on mine now and can only find one fault. It does get hot on low speed running, right at the speed that the clutch is still slipping. For heavy bashing it works like a charm, and the tekno guys had good success with racing too.

Now I think that mike's center diff with the slipper built in would be the best bet for a basher. Put some decently heavy fluid in it and use motor brakes, but have the benefit of the slipper for hard landings, etc.

I do like the mech. brakes on my tekno revo. They work very well and my quark/aveox setup stays cool too! Mybe mech brakes and the centerdiff/slipper would be the best bet. I love reverse, so I am torn between the two!

Hey James, do you use the clutch shoes mount in leading postion, or you use it in "normal" position?

When my buggy will be done, i'll try it without the spring, so it'll suppose to engage at verrrrrrrrrrry low rpm and not supose tu overheat

Yeah, i am not saying it's not drivable linc, it's just not an absolute neccity in a brushless car. that heat you are experiencing is simple a lost of energy. A clutch on electric conversions simple isn't needed.

If the slipper thing is why you want to use one, i completely agree, but the slipperdiff as Mike has it is a much better suited option in my opinion.

you might want to get a bigger pack for that mgm 160amp controller. if you go with 5000mah make sure that the c rate is at least 25 if not the controllers built in lipo cut off will kick in on you at half throttle only if you throttle up really fast. i had this happen with some of my lower mah packs that were a little under 4000mahs.
as for the buggy i too also like the mugen. but have you seem the losi 8ight its also a good choice.
i would run it with the clutch for a while then take it off an try it an see what works better.don't knoe if the clutch will help out its main goal is to help a nitro motor get up on step by letting it rev up into its power band. electric just doesn't need that kind of help.

So why tekno have make the kit with a clutch??????????????
If it was not necessary to run a clutchbell on an electric, why Tekno would spend soooooooooooo much time to develop and build it?????

I think that the main goal of Tekno is to give to the electric conversion the same "trigger feeling" than nitro, and can keep the mechanical brake.

And for the LVC kick at half trottle, i don't know why, flightpower is suppose to be excellent pack, and realy don't know why the MGM 16018 will cut at half trotle:neutral:

Anyway, i'll be using my buggy only for racing, and re-peak the pack after every 5 minutes run, so if it's a problem for me, i'll disable the LVC and run it in "race mode".

I have wanted to try a clutch setup too. But then I recall that when running my nitro 8ight T last summer, the biggest problem I had was the clutch. The stock shoes (2 alum 2 fiber) wore pretty bad and would get hung up and start slipping. Then I put in a 4 alum shoe setup... that got tore up. So I bought a set of hard 7075 King Heads shoes... and they are not wearing out too bad, but still I'm not happy with the slippage etc. It's just a headache for me.

I had fun running nitro ... but that was a pain.

Sound like if you use to heavy spring. Try lighter one, and the clutch will engage at lower rpm and stay engage longer.

hey didn't mean anything bad about the clutch setup. just not to sure how well its going to work out. i would really like to know how well it works when your done.
as for the controller/ battery the main problem is that its just going to be pulling alot of amps. the mgm 160 can do 160amps at full throttle an 200amp burst. so your going to need a pack that can handle that kind of amp draw. i found out that if i gun it really hard then it cuts off at half throttle or higher. but if i roll into the throttle then im fine.

David, I'm going to say go with it. If you like the feel of a clutch, stick in a clutch. If you don't like it you can always change it.

The clutch has its pro and cons, just like anything else. It should smooth out the low end throttle response and "feel" a bit more like a nitro on the low end. It will also add an element of protection to the drivetrain. Cons....well, you need mechanical brakes, so more linkage, weight and overall clutter on the setup. The "softer" low end translates into less punch - this is an advantage in some areas and a disadvantage in others. No reverse, either - a racer doesn't need this anyways.
The extra mass of the clutch will be minimal or unnoticeable. This extra mass would typically yield more torque and peak current draw(flywheel effect), but the slipping clutch will minimize this to a degree. You may lose some runtime due to the slip (wasted energy), but in a 5 minute race this is a non-issue. The only thing you can do is try it and see if you like it. If you want to swap a little runtime and simplicity for the low speed "nitro feel", then the clutch and mechanical brakes is the answer. :)

I was running the same springs as everyone else. Maybe I got fuel on it? Also, the clutch bell gets grooved up etc and that can be a problem. I swapped that out too, along with the 7075 shoes. I'm definitely not an experienced nitro guy... I did what the smart guys said to do. ??

Point is it was about the only problem I had all summer with nitro... and it's a constant maintenance thing. So for me, I lost interest in running a clutch in my electric...

The main reason why i use the clutch setup is the fact that i want to keep the mechanical brake. And if i use the RCM motor mount for my RC8 or my Mugen, i the motor it the rear brake caliper. I must use a 20T + pinion, wich will give my more than 50m/h.
So the only way to keep mechanical brake for me is to use the RCM revo motor mount, but the revo motor mount should be place little behind/rear the rear center diff mount to clear the brake calipers, so the problem now is the stock motor shaft is not long enough to use a standard pinion and reach the center diff spur gear. The only way to extand the motor shaft is to use the Tekno eletri clutch setup. But if i don't like the clutchbell setup, the Tekno electri clutch have a 5mm shaft so i'll can use a standard pinion on it.

Great feedback Mike. Nice to see your opinion on this. :great:

If you absolutely have to have reverse - you can run the Tekno conversion and still keep it but will have to ditch the center diff/FOC. When I first converted mine I tried to see how it would go in leaving as much of it stock as I could. The only changes I made right off were wheels and tires... oh yeah... I did remove the Opti-drive.
Here's a short clip of my Revo using reverse when it was pretty much stock.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvbxNKjtul8

David, If you get on Mega's website they carry mod 1 pinions that are longer than a std pinion. I think they are for use with the Losi 8 vehicles. They would allow you to retain the mount placement and brake clearance and be able to reach the spur. Heres a link, they are in the middle of the page: http://www.megamotorusa.com/Shopping...at=Mod+1+Gears

Thank you James!! I'll keep it in mind if i want to switch back to a direct spur/pinion setup!

go with mugen..

here's mine...

http://juanito.mastertopforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=101



i wish u post some pics of the mech brake.. i'll use it..

Just sell my RC8 and get an HPI Baja SS:party:

And YES i'll keep the Mugen MBX5 and put MBX5T diff in it, to lower the final ratio:yipi:

I am right there with you on the baja ss kit David. I need to sell a few cars and I may get one in the new year. Proline released the badlands rear tires for the baja, I would love to see that tear up the baseball feild next door to my shop!

I need to post up my current project. I am using the tekno clutch adapter with a 4tec 2 speed clutch bell on my yusa rally chassis (like the inferno gt). I had to make a custom spacer to get the two spur gears at the correct distance for the 2 speed spurs. I am also using an integy 3 shoe flywheel kit with al shoes. We will see if it can hold up the the increased load that the car can place on it. I would like to see an 1/8 scale clutch adapter, maybe tekno could whip one up!

My main purpose for the clutch is to allow the use of a MM with my aveox motor. The aveox motors have similar issues with the MM as the neu motors do. Plus I am running some tall gearing, 15/48 1st gear and 20/44 2nd gear! The clutch should help the aveox pull the tall gearing without cogging on startup. This car should be good for 65+!

:intello:I've already a set of pre-order, with a DDm Dominator tune pipe, Elcon clutch system and.........a 27.2 ESP mod racing engine.

I can't wait to smell the odor of burned Klotz super techniplate:yipi:

You are crazy David. I will have to buy one now, if only to keep up with you. I have a feeling that mine will stay kit stock, it looks to be decently upgraded from the RTR baja 5b! Maybe shave the head and run some race fuel!

I had the 5B last summer and the only thing i can tell you about motor, don't shaved any head or try to modify it, buy a hole new ESP engine. That's the best and you avoid lot of headhaches.
I've try to modify my engine, put head kit, reed valve, etc, and have lot of problem.
And the day i've decided to buy a complet Zen 26, ESP race ported, Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! no problems at all, and power to pass any of the best nitro truck.

This truck is a beast.

try it, and you'll fall in love with it:angel: