New Project, Revo Truggy style
 

Well, my old setup works good, but I wanted something simpler. This is about as simple as it gets, barring the outrunner direct to diff setup. I also wanted to try a center diff. I have a Kyosho spur, and a set of the truggy ratio hybrid diffs on order, as well as an 8xl with heatsink, and an assortment of pinions. Everything else is pretty much ready to go.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P1220004.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P1220005.jpg
The Titan is only for mockup:lol: I might also move the position of the ESC, depending on how all the wires fit.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P1220006.jpg
Everything sits really low, yet doesn't hang down too bad.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P1220008.jpg
Even got the skid plate done.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P1220009.jpg
Should balance out real good with a pair of trakpower batteries.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P1220011.jpg
The center skid actually sits up higher than the servo guard.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P1220015.jpg
During the mockup stage.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P1210001.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P1210010.jpg

Using all hardened truggy diffs should pretty much bullet proof my revo driveline. Might have to do something about the center shafts, but will see how they hold up first.

You don't wanna run truggy diffs in the F/R...The ratio will be to high.

Differential Ratio: 4.3
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 46
Pinion Tooth Count: 15
Total Voltage: 14.4
Motor KV: 2084
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.8
Tire Ballooning (inches): .25
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor coil Ω: 0.0073
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 3.07 : 1
Total Ratio: 13.18667 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 19.79 inches (502.72mm)
Total Motor Speed: 30009.6 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 42.65 MPH (68.52km/h)
Effective Speed Rate: 2.96mph/V (4.76kmh/V)
Effective KV Value: 2084
Motor Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Torque: Amperage not specified...


Don't need to go much faster than that. I have 13-16 tooth pinions on order.

I run a similar setup with a center dif in a G2R chassis and the truggy ratio f/r diffs are the way to go IMO. It lets you run a standard 46T center dif and still be able to gear it reasonably. The buggy difs with the 46T center and truck tires forces you to go down to tiny little pinions which increase wear on the pinion and spur IMO and have a tendancy to break the platic teeeth on the spur also when the pinion is that small.

You got the right plan going and I love the truck. Looks sweet and a very slick setup. Cant wait to hear how it goes for you. I love mine.

BTW heres a couple pics of mine in case you are interested. These pictures are a little old, I'm running a different motor and speed controll setup now, but it is still the same concept and basic layout.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...z/CIMG1701.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...z/CIMG1703.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...z/CIMG1702.jpg

I have got one of those sexy motormounts on my revo too!

Yea... There is this nice Swiss guy who made a few a while back. :mdr: I think there are a couple more folks around here that have these as well.

Only downside to the true center diff on the revo is in most cases they force you to run with the truggies. The Monster trucks class usually requires a transmision of some sort. At the RCM Bash last year I had to run the Revo in the Truggy class. I was pretty happy to get third place with it racing agaianst the true truggies.

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but is the nice Swiss guy still making these? I wouldn't mind getting one for my G2r

thats i have center diff hidden inside tranny. none would expect diff in maxx trany :)

Dafni made them a while back. Don't know if he still has any but you could ask.

Ask Mike for such a direct drive motormount, he'll hook you up.

I'll tell that swiss guy you boys here still remember him :whistle:

:lol:

Nothing but love for the Dude..

Lonewolf, what will you use as rear center drive shaft?????? It will have to be verrrrrrry long?????

And who have make your center diff mount????????????, i want this setup on my revo:yes:

If you look close, you can see a stock length axle shaft for the rear. It fits perfect.
http://homepage.mac.com/lonewolf039/...o/P1220014.jpg

I might get a dogbone made up, but like you said, it will be really long. I'm hoping the plastic shafts will hold up. I made the mount myself, the hardest part was making the motor mount screw slots. I drilled five 1/8 inch holes and then broke a couple of dremel bits grinding them out into a slot.:oh: The mount is made from 1/4 inch plate, cut out with a hacksaw and sanded to shape on a belt sander. It might not be pretty, but it should be strong.


jhautz, I love your truck. I have studied the pictures and based a lot of my truck off of yours. I just love the simplicity of the setup. I just don't want to spend that much money on the gorillamaxx chassis, as I don't race, just bash.

Woww!!!! I've an old RCM Mugen motor mount siting here, colecting dust, so i could use it for the rear mount, just make home made side plate to hold it firmly.
he only part that i will have to make will be the front diff mount:yes:
The only thing that i would like to see on your setup would be a mechanical brake system, to avoid to use the speed control to brake.

Could you tell me which center diff you use?? Mugen, ofna, Hot bodies, Kyosho???? And on your pics, i suppose that the ring gear is there just to the picture need!!! I suppose that you'll use a Kyosho plastic one?

I originally was going to use one of the RCM motor mounts, probably the hot bodies one, as the main plate, but decided to make my own. I still might, as mine is a little rough. I looked at adding mechanical brakes, shouldn't be too hard, just have to make enough room. Put the brake servo where the second steering servo was. The center diff is an old one from my twin force, I upgraded the twin force to the hardened hot bodies diffs. The Hot Bodied diffs are the same as the kyosho ones, just cheaper, and are the same, I'm pretty sure, as the ones in the hybrid Revo diffs. And yes, the ring gear is just to hold it together until the Kyosho plastic spur gear gets here.:whistle:

Excellent work- until I started scrolling down I was wondering where the tranny was....

That's really nice; low and simple! I was thinking of re-doing my Revo in a similar fashion, but want to use a lipo pack on one side and all electronics (servo, Rx, ESC, etc) on the other. Not sure if I can balance the weight effectively though...

I want to do exactly the same thing, but probably use a separate hump pack to power the recever to help to balance the weight.

how much did the center diff and the mounts cost? did you make the mounts? if so how? whats the deminsions on it?

I have a RCM battery tray on order to try just that. Like you said though, it might be difficult to get the truck to balance out. I have thought about making the motor mount so the motor is more to the side. Probably can't move it much, but maybe enough.

david lamontagn, that is a good idea, although I don't like the thought of adding any more weight then necessary. My nitro revo was 9.5 pounds, I am trying the keep the E conversion under 10 pounds.

Revracer, I made the mounts, just cost a bit of time:mdr: You can get a complete hardened center diff at tower for $39.99. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJBF8&P=7 It comes with a steel gear tho, so you might want to get the plastic kyosho gear from RCM.

I realy don't know how you can keep the weight of an e-revo under 10 pounds with monster truck tires?????????:surprised:

Mine with badlands tires, Neu 1515, MGM 16018 and Flightpower 5000mAh, 4s is at 11.4 pounds and i can't go under this weight.

It's a good 2 pound heavier than your's and the only thing different on yours is the tranny. This is not the tranny who can shave 2 pounds on this truck:gasp:

Mine's just under 10lbs with 14 GP3300 NiMH cells...

David.... Are you using regular air in the tires??? You gotta start putting helium in them. It shaves 2 lbs easily.:whistle:

Mines 10.3lbs with 5s 5000mah and a Neu 1521

i havent weighed mine in. but its nitro right now with aluminum arms... they are gone soon though.

realy don't know how you did it:oh:

I've only a 4s 5000mAh and i'am over 11 pounds.

Now i'll make the same setup as lonewolf039, but instead to take a center diff, i'll take the stock revo output shaft on the stock tranny, build an adapter to fit the spline on the shaft and bolt a 46t steel spur on this adpter.

And i'll put the stock mechanical brake system on it.
I've tale a look on it yesterday night, and the bigger part to do will be the mount for the motor.
I'll order two RCM revo hybrid diff (truggy ratio) and run it on 4s, with the Tekno elektri clutch adapter and a 16T clutchbell.

:rofl:Put a little more helium in it and it'll fly.


ho!! forgot to ask to you: "Do you breath helium too to think like that??:rofl::lol::rofl:

center diff for revo g3r gorillamaxx
 

I have a revo g3r and really want a center diff for it ....could any one send me a parts list and prints/pictures to make one.....I am a cnc machinist after all....just not good at coming up with designs....

please thank you! :smile::smile:

Prolineosmax@yahoo.com

THIS is about as perfect a design as you will find, originally made by Dafni who produced a few for some people here. Very simple really.

ill take one! :lol:

Hey guys, I'm sorry to say that I won't be able to get anything done for a while. I am working out of town for the next couple of weeks, but the good thing is all my parts should be in when I get home:intello:

BTW, what springs are you guys running in your E-revo's? I have the orange springs up front with tan springs in the rear, and 60 wt shock oil from when it was nitro. I never got around to trying anything else when I was running it with the twin tranny, but thought about going for green or gold in front, with silver in the rear. I think this should be close for bashing/jumping with the extra weight of the e conversion. Any thoughts?

those springs should be ok, i used purple frt and rr on my g3r revo and it was great with 60wt oil, but it was heavier then the stock chassis conv.

also something to think about,i noticed that no matter how stiff i made it , it wouldnt come back up, i had to fit my suspension arms , they were binding and i had to ream the pin holes and lightly sand the end of the arms to get free movement, no binding at all after i did this , w/o shocks i could lift arms and they would drop free as could be, no resistance at all

Yup, I noticed that too after I had run my revo for 3-4 gallons. I reamed all the pin holes and polished the shafts. The suspension was really free, at least for a while. I usually run in a big sandpit, so my revo takes a lot of abuse.:lol:

Here is a vid of my revo at the sandpit from last summer. It's nitro:surprised: but this is what I am building it for, lots of abuse:mdr: Desert Rat Bash Movie

Wonder if it's from slightly bent pins? Mine are still free but haven't taken many large jumps so I'm sure that helps. Time for a Ti pin upgrade maybe?

Ummm.....you know, guys, I have a slipperential in my SuperMaxx, but I want to taste my Maxx with a centerdiff. I've been looking around for someone to make me a nice centerdiff mount with drive shafts, but no luck.

This one is made by Mike a very long time ago, and it has a few flaws that holds me from using it. It's evident that his work on the slipperential is lightyears ahead of his work on this thing.

I hope you can hear me, Mike. I want a damn centerdiff for the SuperMaxx ( with slipperential quality).

Here! Here! I am waiting for my direct drive units too! And I am in the process of building an e-revo on a gorillamaxx chassis...so I will take one of those damn slipperential things too!

My pins are straight, they just get packed full of sand and get all scuffed up. :tongue: So who makes a TiNitrate coated pin set for the revo? I don't think I need actual titanium pins, but I'd love a set of TiNi coated ones. I used to eat up SS shocksafts in the sand before I got the GTX shocks, now they last forever.

you could always get some compressed air cans and just spray the dirt off and make sure to really spray those tight areas. always works for me