chassis and BL upgrade
 

I've got a stock E-Maxx chassis with the HV-Maxx (well, on it's way to Novak for replacement :() currently. I am also using the Strobe slipper and sprong with 14 cells (2 sets are side-by-side packs while 1 set is a 7cell stick pack). MIP CVDs all around.

So many questions, so little time. Here goes:
1) 14 cells = 9L. If I decide to try 16 cells at some point, will the 9L work fine or would the 10L be recommended?

2) CF or Aluminum G2 Chassis -- since I only bash, is there a better suited material? Also, I saw that some recommend the motor mount, but it isn't required. Besides looking cleaner, is there an advantage to the single motor mount? I also saw that others use the other motor mount to hold an ESC bracket.

3) I've been waiting for the Warrier 9920 to be restocked. I suppose the delay is Customs. I've looked at the MGM160, and I am wondering if I should give it a try instead of waiting for the 9920. What is the customer service, dependability, etc between the two? I'm still partial to the 9920 because of all the happy 9918/20 folks.

4) Is an on/off switch recommended and/or included like the HV-Maxx?

5) Strobe/9L gearing -- I am currently using the 51 tooth OFNA mod1 spur. I saw another thread which mentioned I wouldn't have to run 51T. Running 51/14 with UE Spyder 6 diffs on the HV-Maxx, I can only run in first gear based on Novak's recommendations. Would you recommend only running in 1st or 2nd with the 9L?

6) The G2 extension was also recommended in another thread when upgrading the chassis. Can I just buy a new CVD bone for the rear center to make up the difference.

Thanks!

Hi MT enthusiast!

Welcome to the forum! i saw your name a few times on the new member list.. nice find..!

to answer your questions as accurate as i can;

1) the 9L is good for 14 cells, on 16, the 10L is the best option of the two mentioned motors, but i would reccomend a 7XL, on both 14 and 16 cells. you even can take it out for a spin on 18 cells.

2)Hard to tell..the CF is a bit lighter, aluminum will give and bent, CF will snap on a big crash. Though i never seen any pictures of a broken CF chassis. (it is TOUGH) my sugestion is, choose what you like to see... :) the motormount can be used as speedoholder, bu you need to fabricate something that can be mounted to that holder.. So you are better of making something that mounts the controller directly to the motorplate or to the chassis.

3) the MGM is a great controller, the service is good as well the 9920 is very good as well.. the MGM has got more adjustment options.. one nice feature is it's lipoly cutt-off voltage..

4) if placed in the weak voltage circuit, you can use it.. If you use a Ubec it's not needed..

5)depends on the motor/ no of cells.. 9L/10L 7XL 14, 16 cells.. gear it to go about low 40's for bashing and you're good to go.. (in 2nd speed)

6)Mike can get you the dogbone you need.. (including the cups)
3)

I agree with Serum, get a 7XL. It works well on a wider range of cell count, and gives you nice runtime and speed. I wish I found this motor earlier.

CF over alu is an old discussion. Both have their nice aspects. Get what you want. I prefer alu, because it's easier to work with, for me.

ABout dogbone and availability: Mike can get you everything you want. Even custom lenght bones.

Thanks for the replies. I do like the way the aluminum G2 looks. I'll work up the order to Mike for the chassis, 7xl motor, pinion, MGM160 or Warrior 9920 ESC, and clamp. I'm going to wait on the extended chassis as the pocket book needs to recover some prior to ordering the rest. ;)

Thanks again for the input!

You're welcome!

Pocket book needs to recover?! I hear you. RC is a wallet-killer.