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I tried 5S...wow.
Well, I decided to go to 5S in my G2R, so I ordered a pair of 3S packs to match up with my current pair of 2S packs which I was running in 4S to make two sets of 5S.
I ordered an MMM to run in conjunction, but got tired of waiting so decided to drive it for a couple minutes on my MM and all I can say is wow. This thing really came to life. Looks like 4S just wasn't enough voltage for the 1940/7, but 5S is perfect. Everything ran cooler and it was way more than just 25% more powerful. I'd say its a good bit closer to being 50% more powerful. I can't imagine how powerful this thing would be on 6S... I'm ready for the track now. :mdr: Those nitro truggies better keep a clear path for me to blow by them...I could easily kill them out of a corner and many of them at mid speeds. They could keep up fine at high speeds (but I still had a slight edge when it came to top speed). Now I'm confident I can best them in any power category, be it top speed or acceleration. |
That makes sense. 25% increase in voltage also means 25% more current (assuming the same gearing/load), which equates to 50% more power. Even though it is theoretically more current (and should heat up more), you are probably not running it as hard to get the same acceleration/speed, so it stays cooler.
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Now you make me want to put 5s to my 1940/7!:lol:
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nice one!! for each cell u could really tell the diff ey?
i could really tell the difference because i've always upgraded by even numbers =] started of with 2s then 4s n now 6s just to see the difference in my revo.. but now i really wanna double it to 12s... which i'm still researching every bit of it =] P.S Why don't u upgrade another cell to 6? So your "WOW" becomes "OH MY F***ING GOD!!!" hehehe =] |
After reading this thread and PdelCast's posts on the Castle page, and also GriffinRU's posts from a while back, I got my cojones back where they belong, disabled the LVC and stuck a fully charged 5S in the MM.... and glory be!!! It works! New MM too. Rustler is going faster tomorrow.
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how do u disable the LVCs on the MM? Via PC programming? im planning to try out the MM system =]
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You got it. Just hook up via USB and disable the LVC.
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So you can run a higher voltage through a standard Mamba Max (I assume with a fan.) without it blowing up?
LVC? Are these the capacitors? How or what part of the program do you adjust & how to disable these? Step by step would be nice. I've got a MM connected to my PC now & both it's LED's are flashing like a yellow cross walk signal. Anyone got any ideas? |
Standard MM with no mods except for the external CC BEC and red wire from RX lead taken out.
Have you installed the Castle Link software already? If you have, plug the USB cord to the MM and start the Castle Link software. On the Basic tab there is a part where it lets you set "Cutoff Voltage" to "No Cutoff". Also, as a precaution, set punch control to 100% and motor timing to "lowest". |
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nice one... going to give it a go n see how it goes =]
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wait so your running more voltage and getting lower temps? so basically on the same gearing if i ran 4s over 3s i could drop my temps? that just seems wrong to me...?
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You are right Revracer, you will have to change the gearing a bit.
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man im gonna have to go ahead and step up to 4s then! if it runs cooler and faster/stronger... why not!
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