two fast questions!!!
 

first i want to ask how i can drop the temps on my MM, after only about 5-10 minutes it was hot. and that was just bashing. long racing itll probly get hotter? this is in a revo by the way with a mega motor. no ccbec yet but it is comming. second, my castle link wont download? i tried taking it from the site too and that didnt work. i keep getting a warning saying that continuing the installation will disrupt or distabalize the way my computer performs and that its possible to completely stop my computer?

CC BEC, HV Cap and a fan - thats all you can do apart from gearing etc

Post your setup for more info...

On the CC link please post details of your pc setup

revo 2.5. im running 15/38 gearing with stock clutch on the tekno conversion. close ratio internal gearing. its a MM esc and a mega ACn22/30/1 3500kv. im only running 3s maxamps 5000 pack.

my computer is a compaq presario with windows xp

What timing is the MM set at? The Mega being a 6 pole motor, likes High timing.

its all bone stock. my castle link doesnt work so everything is default straight from the factory. once i get the castle link working is it possible for me to bump up the timing? that might help it run a little cooler? and by the way lutach, i absolutely love my mega. its amazingly strong.

Try setting your Mamba with your radio. It's very simple. I love the torque the Mega produces.

I ran the same motor, esc and a 4000mah 3S in a rustler and my MM got too hot and shut down alot. I tried different settings and nothing helped. Sent it to Artur for mod one and problem solved.

that error always shows on my pc's just ignore it :) it will work after that... also using a ubec will help alot (should)

I think to stop the esc running hot you should get another, the MM really wasn't designed to a run a big MT, especially on 3s.

As others have said, if you must stick with it, BEC, Caps and fan should help. Plus programming.

Once you get into the castle link programming, I'd update it, then set your start power to high and disable punch control and of course set your lipo cutoff. Thats about the only thing I can think of to help keep your esc temps down some. Perhaps getting some airflow to it will help with body mod?

Both my PC and Laptop gave me that warning message. Neither one of them have crashed since loading and using Castle Link. Typical MS BS. Anyway, not familiar with the the mega motors. I've got an E-Max running a MM and Neu 1512 1Y (2750KV). I'm using a CC BEC and a glitch buster cap on my Rx. I put two fans on the MM, one blows on the heatsink, the other in through a 3/4" hole in the back of the case. Small holes all around the sides of the case to let air back out. Temps stay under 150 as long as both fans are working. Lost the one on the sink in a main and temps went to 180 pretty quick. Running 2@ 2S 8K LiPo. Punch control at 70%, brake at 40%, start on high, timing lowest. The MM is not really meant for Montser Truck duty. It's a temporary while my MMMs get put back together. If you get the BEC, that will help some with the temps, and 4S gives you more voltage, less amps, so that takes some of the heat off the ESC to. Your going to be working a 3S 5K 20C pack awfull hard in an E-Revo. The 2s 8k MaxAmps were at 105 degF and only took 3200mah to recharge after a 10 minute main. Not sure about the differences between motors, but the weight of the trucks should be similar so I hope some of this helps.

yeh... well I'll download the castle link and set it up for higher start and all that stuff. i need to disable my brakes and reverse since im using the tekno conversion. I will be running 4s soon enough I think. i am also charging a rx pack and im gonna see if that helps temps at all. I was told that the MM should work fine in the truck... and how could I set the mamba with my controler?

well i just downloaded castle link and tried connecting my MM esc but it wont pick up the connection? it says there is no device connected and I cant seem to get it to pick up?

MM is fine in a revo - 4s is the best compromise - 5s is good but some controllers won't take it without draining the battery a little.

You do need an UBEC, fan and I would suggest a High Volatage, High temp, low ESR capacitor in the order of 2700f. The novak one at HV one at $10 works or there is someone doing them individually for a few $'s on ebay.

I toasted 3 MM before adding the capacitor and havn't had any issues since - It works (ps even mike uses an extra cap)

You mean lower ESR right? :wink: