Performance with Medusa and Mamba Max
 

I have been waiting for the mmm and i know they are working hard. I will be happy to get my MMM in a few weeks. In the mean time I was thinking of other brushless combinations for my maxx because right now my truck is waiting on an ESC. Currently I have a Neu 1515 1y (2200kv) and was just looking for a good ESC. I have had the quark and would prefer not to get an MGM. It seems one of the most reliable escs out there is still the old mm ESC. I was thinking of picking on up but I was aware of the cogging that might occur with my Neu. Because of this cogging I decided to just pick up a temp motor that would work good with the mm. I originally was looking at geting a Feiago but saw the new Medusas (hoping they are 2 poles), and the price to performance is what i am looking for. BTW i am running 4s lipo and have an extra cc bec. What are your guys recommendations and what are my options. Also are the Medusas 2 pole or 4.

Thanks for your replys

The Neu cogging snt really a problem on the MM anymore. Not since the software upgrade a while back. The MM should run the 1515 just fine. Save the cash, run the Neu.

The medusa motors appear to be a neu/plett clone. They work fine with a quark esc. Not sure how well they will work with a MM, but from what I have heard, the latest firmware cured most issues with neu motors, so the medusa should work fine. From what i can tell the medusa motors are basically a machine wound neu clone. They appear to work well, much better than a feigao, and cost alot less than the neu motors. I am anxious to see if they bring out a 70mm motor, as those sound great for a budget setup. They may compete with the castle neu motors, price wise. Always good to have other options!

is it totally gone or is it just very minimal. also is there a certain startup or power band setting i should run to minimize cooging.

so i am assuming the medusas are 4 poles then

Yes thay are. I'm currently trying to sell my brand new 36-60-2000Kv Medusa motor.

Does anyone have any good info on these? i assumed they were a cheap Chinese POS, but if they are pretty decent I may have to look into one.

how would i set up the lipo cut off with running 4s on the mm and ccbec. is there anything else i need to know about setting it up, or is it just solder the cc bec up, remove the red wire, and solder the plugs and program and it is ready to go. am i missing something.

How can they be a clone of the Neu when the diameter is different?

The VXL
 

runs the Medusa 36-60-2000kv V2 pretty smooth in the slash up to 3s considering no ESC options. Me likey the medusa V2. I need to try it on the 4s MM still.

Chinese POS? The medusa website is filled with "designed and engineered in the USA logos"

@GorillaMaxx360 - I don't understand your question? Set the lipo cutoff for 4s like you would for 2s or 3s, just plug into the computer and choose the 4s (12V) option. And yes, solder the ccbec up, remove the red wire and your good to go.

i was confused about the cut off becuase if the esc is made for 3s lipo and it sees you punch in a higher cut off volt wound it recoginize that the volts are higher than what it is rated at. because of this i would think the esc would not function right becuase the cutoff setting you need is not recoginized by the esc.

Nah the 3s rating is just because of the motor combos are only up to 3s. If you click on the help thing in castle link it even has an option for 12V and says its for 4s lipo - I've even heard (but not tried) that auto lipo cutoff detects 4s OK too. Good idea to stick on a fan and maybe a big cap across the power leads as well to help keep temps down - because its not really officially supported, and although the components are rated high enough, you really are pushing its limits :P

I am running 4s with my MM in a Rustler, I have the LVC set @ custom and 3.3 vpc I have found this is about the time that the vehicle starts to slow down anyways and I dont run a fan or cap and ESC runs cool the feigao runs pretty warm to hot mostly beacuse I have it geared up and it s Feigao....lol...also set up the BEC program before you solder your connections, I soldered my connections than tried to program and it confused the Castlelink, I called CC and they told me to program first. So I had to desolder and remove shrink tubing and do double work...I really hate that.....:-(

Design-wise they appear to be a clone, as in they employ a similar design. Looks alot like a plett or a neu inside. I have had good success with mine, and would say it is another alternative for a 1/8 buggy.