Building e-maxx basher - Need Guidance
 

Hey guys - longtime lurker first time poster.

I am in the process of getting a used UE lightning chassis and starting the process of building up a bullet proof basher e-maxx.

Throwing money out the window, and ignoring the motor/controller for now, what would you recommend for the ultimate in durability?

Here are some things I'm thinking:

UE Lightning chassis
Either Great Assembly 7075 bulks or UE VBS?
RPM Arms (If Rpm arms what shock towers?), or UE EXT?
UE Servo saver
Hitec (5955tg I think 300oz) or JR9000t steering servo
Gmaxx single speed (I don't really ever shift the maxx I have)
UE steel/titanium cvds all around
RPM bumper
Gorilla or UE skids
RPM skid guards (or whatever they are called)
Lunsford Ti rods, pins

Where I really need help is

Differentials (worth upgrading? I haven't had issues with my stock diffs in my maxx)
Rod ends, Pillow balls?
Screw kits?

I know I'm missing some smart ideas or upgrades. Let me know your opinions!

Steve

well first of all i would go with the fastlane hybrid bulks with 1/8th gears. if you plan on going brushless the stock diffs wont last long. as for the suspension i would go with the integy type 3 pro (comes with towers) and gorillamaxx skids. also, i perfer to save a little money on things so that is why i recommended the flm and integy instead of the ue. as for the servo saver, again i would spend 1/3 the money and get the proline. i know there discontinued but you can find them on ebay for about 25 bucks.
also, i would not get the ue unless its a steal. i would get the new fastlane chassis and the cnc'd tranny with gorillamaxx singlespeed.

Im a basher and i am trying to build a bashing emaxx aswell. This is what i have

Flm aluminum arms
Integy knuckles
Flm hybrid bulks for 1/8 scale diffs
supermaxx 8 spider diffs
supermaxx centre dog bones
MIP outer cvds
flm chassis
aluminum shock towers
dace 23mm adapters
supermaxx gen.4 servo saver
steel idlers
aluminum skidplates msr5 shocks
rpm long body mounts

I just need to get the BL setup and i'll be under way. This probably isnt the ultimate in durability. i got the flm parts like the arms cause they are heaps cheaper than UE and if you break one they replace it for $8 i think or something cheap like that. so i'll feel alot better about sending it flying off ramps and doing back flips etc. i'll probably end up getting a new radio and that hi-tec 5955tg servo but i'll see how my 645 does for now it might be ok for what i need.

oh and get some titanium skids cause aluminum ones just bend if you land on the front or back.

Cv's and rpm arm's don't work. You'll bend them when the arm's flex to much(tight corner's, jump's) I've bend 2 ue's in just 7 run's like this.

I'd say go UE, you get what you pay for. If you got the money the choice is obvious, if not you can go fastlane and integy(while I absolutly hate and despite their racer x rip off) for their replacement program.

Also I would never ever get discontinued part's. If you break something you'd have to search ebay to find it. That'd could take week's, meaning you can't run. But that's your choise, I love my servo saver(ue that is) in combination w/ a 5955tg.

If u want teh ultimate basher! i woudl go for the g2r conversion for the revo!!! lol,

Hey guys good points here.

Sneek - real good point about the rpm arms - would have never thought about that.

nbcaz - revo is extremely durable and while the g2r conversion is intriguing, I plan on keeping my revo nitro powered as I like having both electrics and nitros in the house.

I'll have to check out those fastland hybrid bulks.

Whats the benefit of going 8 spyder vs 6 spyder on the diffs?

Thanks again,

Steve

The 8 spyder gear is a little stronger. I have not had problem with the 6 as of yet. The ue servo saver is the stuff. I like it better than the proline. The proline is nice to. I would run the aluminum arms. You have choices out there. The lightest is the gmaxx suspension. I run the integy racer x. It made a big difference in handling. I have the hitec servo 333oz torque. It is awesome. I would get the 8mm shafts with the dace adapters in case you go to the 23mm hex. The gorilla skids are nice and really light. I hope this helps you out.

Lightening chassis
Gmaxx single speed
UE idler
8 spyder diffs
UE center shafts
UEhingepins
UE8mm steel CVD w/23mm dace adapters
UE supershox 8 shock set up
UE VBS towerless titanium skids
UE Supermaxx EXT suspension w/rod ends & pillowballs
Strobe limiters
Tony's Screws

? that's cool but what do you mean by that? Stuff for him to get?

Is so, nice list indeed. I'd get a real racer x over the ext. though and replace the front lower arm's w/ hi impact one's.

Hmm setback arm's come's in mind.

Sort of a shopping list. Ext is more of a basher set up. Racer x is sweet, add the High impact front arms and the setback arms and rock and roll.:cool:

Racer x can take plenty of abuse.

No doubt Racer X is tough as nails.

Regarding RacerX, does replacing the front arms with the high impact versions get you closer to the EXT's strength? UE's site lists RacerX as 80% of the strength of the EXT. Of course the option of the setback arms might make it more worth while either way....

Absolutely

just surfed over to UE's website... where are these high impact arms listed?? Thanks,

Steve