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-   -   Ongoing problem with Hybrid output shafts... (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16277)

Arct1k 11.01.2008 07:38 PM

Ongoing problem with Hybrid output shafts...
 
What to do 3 gone!

Setup is G3R CF 6S 123 Neu 1515 2.5DF 24/66....

Difficult to get a photo of the last one head on but it is twisted too...

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u180/Arct1k/031.jpg

BL_RV0 11.01.2008 08:52 PM

:eyes: Ouch.

BrianG 11.01.2008 09:13 PM

Did you contact Mike about this yet?

Arct1k 11.01.2008 09:36 PM

I spoke to mike after number 1 went down and showed Jamie and Mike the broken one at the bash...

I took the diff apart last night to replace the sheared one with my last spare but the second one is twisted to badly it isn't worth rebuilding the diff.

I have emailed mike tonight and sent him the pics...

TruckBasher 11.01.2008 09:41 PM

Sad to hear that....

I have them too but haven't tested yet..

JThiessen 11.01.2008 09:46 PM

In cases like this, one tends to focus on the broken pieces as the "source" of the problem. However, maybe the real issue lies somewhere else in your drivetrain. Is it possible one of your shafts is binding up in a certain suspension position? If so, I would think your slipper would give before putting out enough power to shear these. One yes, three - no way. Just thinking out loud here...
I guess it comes down to one of two things. Either a string of defective parts, or you have something occuring that creates great opposing forces at that spot.
Has it been in the same spot every time? Have you noticed when it occurs?

Arct1k 11.01.2008 09:51 PM

:whistle: When it does backflips... :oops:

The drive train is clear it is just the rear diffs take all the punishment... The centre is running the beefy gorillamax dog bones... This part is basically the weak link in the chain... I guess I will need some more slipper action... But thats a fine line from just melting the slipper...

I guess I need the slipperential mike in G-REVO format :)

JThiessen 11.01.2008 11:04 PM

I still think its a material issue. You just happen to be the owner of the entire 1% of the bad parts.....

George16 11.01.2008 11:41 PM

I tend to agree with the material issue. I'm not sure if these are the same diff outputs traxxas made and Mike just cut the threaded portion off. If it is, then something else is going on in your setup because the traxxas ones are made of hardened steel. If not, ask Mike what material he used in making them.

TexasSP 11.01.2008 11:56 PM

This could very well be an issue with the hardening process itself. It could have gotten too hot, not hot enough, cooled down too quickly, and so on. I remember Mike had some bad pinions a while back as well. Although I am not casting any blame on Mike himself for this just saying that it happens.

I have had guys screw up the hardening process for me on many occasions so it is very feasible.

crazyjr 11.13.2008 01:23 AM

I am running the V.1 diff conversion with buggy diffs (hot bodies) gorilla converted Emaxx tranny with steel center driveshafts, I also run the 1515/2.5d on 5s with both an MGM 16018 and a quark 125 and the only thing i ever broke was the input shaft (on 5s) and a 4 yr old front wheel shaft (stock) on a 6s run. I wish i could tell you what is going on, I'm impressed by the power you seem to have

pasan 11.17.2008 05:53 AM

This is interesting, and makes me scratch my head a little, I mean if a 2.5D which is already a higher Kv motor, running on taller gearing, can break shafts like that, the stockers seem like a much better option. I have yet to twist a stock shaft, and I do beat my e-revo quite a bit.

Arct1k 11.17.2008 06:49 AM

pasan - I thought you ran a 2100kv motor on 6s geared 20/68 (about 50mph without tire ballooning).

I'm using a 1650kv motor which is geared for under 40mph - stands to reason my setup has more torque unless you are running a 1521/1527.

pasan 11.17.2008 07:05 AM

My bad, I was thinking of a 1.5D for some reason, which is 2700kv. 1650kv is a lot more like it, and obviously a torque monster on 6S of any kind of lithium batteries. And the stock talons do balloon, and came apart in places along the rim, but they've been behaving since I re-glued them. But I digress, you would think these after market shafts would be stronger than the stockers. The rears on mine "creak" a little when rolling forward slowly ( for the longest time I thought it was the bearings ) but a little bit of WD-40 on the u-joints did the trick.

Arct1k 11.17.2008 10:30 AM

The issue is enhanced I think as I'm running cvd's rather than plastic shafts.

The plastic shafts flex with the load to provide some flex - with the cvds that load is placed on the output shaft. I've chopped down some revo shafts to get me going.

Hopefully the slipperential will be out soon for the G3R.


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