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Very how Clutch bell
I recently completed by revo conversion and after running for a minute, the clutch gets up to about 150*F. I'm using a 1515 1Y on 6S(I tried it also in 3S and same results), elektri-clutch, and a 4-shoe clutch bell with .9 springs. I made sure the setscrew is tight. It sounds like the motor is overrunning the clutch so much that the shoes are not biting into the clutch bell but instead just sliding inside heating it up.
Any inputs? Thanks. |
Use weaker springs so it engages sooner and more positively? :neutral: On that note, some people don't use springs at all.
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Well, I reinstalled the stock 2-shoe clutch that came with the TeknoRC conversion but still got the same result. The clutch bell is still heating up after less than a minute of running.
Here some pics: TeknoRC elektri-clutch installed: http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture072.jpg Tried it with 3S and 6S: http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture071.jpg Temps: http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture073.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture074.jpg Setup: http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture067.jpg |
I use the long shank pinions and the mechanical brakes in my 8t conversion.. LOVE IT! I really enjoy the clutch on my 8ight buggy and it works well, but it's just not great on the larger truggies (or revo) sized trucks iMO. I had the same heat problems and after racing for almost 45min constant (simulating an a-main) it even started to not catch at all due to the temps.. not ideal if you know what I mean :) Pinion setup is far more responsive and quieter to boot, not that noise matters much :P but less heat translated back into the motor as the pinion doesn't heat up at all is a huge factor in my choice to keep the clutch off the truggy.
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I recall they said to put the clutch shoes in opposite so it pushes the bell instead of drags it, and to use aluminum shoes and a very light or no spring.
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Hmmm... 150 degrees is normal. If the clutch is 250 or higher, then that is a problem, but 150 is close to the lower end of the temp range. It appears your clutch bell is shimmed perfectly - tiny gap between the bell and the flywheel.
How does the truck run? If there is excessive slipping (no punch), check the slipper clutch behind the spur. If the clutch bell were slipping, the temp would be a lot higher (250-300). One other thing to check if there is still audible/noticeable slipping would be the clutch nut. Tighten it down on the flywheel just a tad more, but this is a last resort. Let us know how it goes. |
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If that is the clutch setup that I sold you it is fine. I ran it it and the temps came down and never changed. If you do alot of stop and start the clutch will get hotter than if you are doing speed runs.
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Heck 150 °F is nothing try 374.4 °F. I burned the s&%t outta my finger!!!!
Chuck |
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mine has been over 200° with the 2.5d on 5 cell
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Well, 150*F is within 30 seconds of running.
Hmmm... 150 degrees is normal. If the clutch is 250 or higher, then that is a problem, but 150 is close to the lower end of the temp range. It appears your clutch bell is shimmed perfectly - tiny gap between the bell and the flywheel. Quote:
Anyway, just for shit and giggles, I went ahead and tightened the clutch nut and slipper clutch. I went downstairs for a test run and after 1 minute, the temp shot up to 346*F. I didn't have my camera so I hurriedly went upstairs(I live in the 8th floor of a high rise towerand I used th elevator) and by the time I check the temps, it was already down to 158.5*F. It was smoking a bit when I was downstairs. The air temp is about 48*F too. Tell you what, it still wheelies. It almost flipped too since I ran it on 6S :intello::whistle::whistle:. Here's a pic. You can see the melt marks on the spur. http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture075.jpg |
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