1/8th buggy diff conversion
 

is the i/8th buggy diff conversion worth the price. i runa zippy-h 4s 4000mah 25c lipos, MMMv1 and a medusa 36-70-2200. i would be using the truggy ratios.
what other parts would i need to replac the center shafts with dogbones or cvds?
thanks

Worth it? More than likely, since the stock diffs are plasticy crap- a big BL motor will soon chew them up. You will need the yolk adaptor do-das to use center drive shafts:

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...mrevov2coupler

Or the hotbodies 8mm bore drive cups for use with center CVDS.

One thing though- you wont need truggy ratio diffs unless you are planning on using massive diameter tyres or a center diff drive unit (no tranny), otherwise you will have to gear up alot to get your desired speed with that fairly normal motor kv/voltage setup...

I raced stock erevo parts all summer long... tons and tons of hours racing truggies. You may need to rebuild them 2x a year but that actually is the norm for 1:8 diffs as well. The new emaxx and erevo diffs are much stronger than the old revo diffs.. if you have a converted revo, just go on ebay and get a set of erevo diffs and you'll be golden; for that matter buy 10 sets for the price of the 1;8 diff conversion. PS don't over tighten your slipper and you won't have tons of drive train issues...

Sorry big thumbs down from this user.. waste of money iMO

i agree, and you could allways mod in some lst2 diff

Generally you want the buggy diff ratio - Truggy reduces too much - i posted a guide up on these

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...ghlight=hybrid

I have a set of V.1's, they have a shaved down input, the current v.2's are standard 1/8 shaft size. i have no problems with mine, I crushed both the front and rear Integy upgraded stockers with a quark 125 and a 9xl w/5s lipo. the buggy diffs are much better, however you might need to step up in gear or kv on motor, the diffs are geared different from the revo's. If you are toting at least a 1515 neu and 5s lipo, You need these diffs. racers might get away with stockers, but bashers will like the stronger diffs

The new erevo diffs are much stronger. With a set of al cases (not sure if those are even made yet) they would definately be the best stock option. They still have the crap 2 spider internal design, and do not really work well with thinner diff fluids. That is the main issue with the maxx and revo diffs.

I guess people have been watching me.... I still need to finalize the fit in the revo bulks. I opted to mod the bulks as they are the cheaper part. I do plan to test the diffs with a hacker c50 10xl in my other erevo. Not sure when I will finish. The lst diff swap is not cheap, but costs about the same as a stock revo if you add the al cases and cups with better gears. Plus lst diffs have the std buggy/truggy 4 spider design, which is far superior to the traxxas diff.

The v2 rcm diffs are the only drop in option, and that is attractive to many people who lack the time or desire to mod stuff. They are a bit pricey, I guess due to the large amount of machining necessary???? I have a set of v1 diffs, but never got around to putting them in anything.

i've decided to get the v2 buggy diff version, i thank everyone for their input and help. should be a nice compliment to the intense truggy racing with my bl rc8t. i've always liked the revo and this gives me my truggy lite.

:lol: you bet, i was planning on trying the same thing so im glad you are takeing some of the questions out of it

what oils do you guys recommend, i also have the traxxas center diff also

7 and 3 in mine

7k in the front 5k in the rear on mine, I run my center diffs with 30K (thick stuff) works great on 6s..

hope that helps..

I think i got 20 front and 10 rear in mine, Gmaxx converted Emaxx tranny and no center diff

gmaxx 10k front 30k center (custom 1/8diff) 7k rear

7k front & 5k rear in my Gmaxx- this stuff confuses me though so I just did what everyone else did, lol.