Help me compare lipo packs and understand...
 

I went to a Traxxas Slash race this past weekend. It was a spec race where the only options allowed was either a 2s lipo or 6-cell 4400's. Most of the guys were running Yeah Racing 2s 5000mAh 25C packs and I had the Team Trinity IP 2s 4000mAh, 20C. Their trucks were more punchy and able to clear the jumps better than me. I had to roll almost everyone and I would hit the crest and flip the Slash. I know the stock esc and motor of the Slash is nothing great, but could the Yeah racing packs be that much better?

Also, the guys were telling me that they never balance charge because it makes the pack feel flat. I always balance charge all my lipos and thought this was odd. The one guy told me from his personal experience that whenever he balance charged his Yeah pack, it didn't have the "yank" that it did after a couple of unbalanced cycles.

Can someone please explain to me what I should be doing for this spoec type racing? It was supposed to be a fun class for me but ended up more stressful as I couldn't enjoy the track. I had no problems in 1/10 4wd with my trackpower saddle packs.

enerland based 2s hardcase lipo! And ALWAYS balance chrge your lipos, the balancer is there to keep you and your lipos safe.

Hmmm, sounds like he is trying to "yank" your chain... He may be letting the pack get out of balance and then oversharging one cell? Problem is that a real lipo charger will never go over 4.2v per cell, so a 2s pack will have 8.4v max. Balancing will extend the life of the lipo and a charge thru balancer is just a good idea when charging. It will interrupt the charge if any cell goes over 4.2v which is generally the most dangerous thing to do to a lipo. That is when they puff and pop and potentially catch fire.

Lipo does make a huge difference over nimh because they can hold voltage much better under laod. Nimhs are good for about 30amps under laod, then the voltage drops. The 12t titan can draw some juice, and lipo can provide better than nimh.

they have better lipos.... yours is a 20c 4000 (80amp) theirs are 25c 5000 (125amp) it makes a difference.... they run REALLy well with the 5000 25c and 23 tooth pinion, any more power with the stock tires and wheels and chassis setup and youll just be turning slower laps due to too much power.....

That is plain stupid. They obviously have no idea what they are talking about. Balancing just ensures that each cell is the same as the other one(s). As long as they are all charged CC/CV charged up to 4.2v/cell, it makes NO DIFFERENCE if they are balance charged or non-balance charged. They either are sadly ignorant, or trying to justify their poor decision not to balance charge. Even if the pack doesn't need balancing, it WILL NOT hurt to hook up the balancer - but it will be there if needed.

your buddies are tards, Brian G is the master of all that holds current lol buy this http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...P5200SP28c2S2P

yea if you got mikes new hardcase lipo then youd have a better lipo..... it alos makes a BIG differnce on how you broke in the 12t and do you use BUSHING lube, not bearing oil or lube but bushing specific lube, also spray the comm with motor spary as much as possible before and after every run it good, and if you want an even more advantage put a little dry ice on the motor about 3 mins before your race and itll just about freeze the motor and youd be amazed at how much faster an ice cold brushed motor runs..... that not a joke either the dry ice trick works wonders.

Who makes these packs?

Thanks guys. My local hobby shop only had these packs and I wanted to support them. Oh well, it will make a good loaner/practice pack then. I will have to order Mike's pack.

I broke in the motor by putting some bushing drops on the bushings and running it in a break in stand for 3 minutes. Honestly my Ice has been set for so long I just push it and go about other tasks. One guy was telling me about water break in methods.

??????? are we talking about the same thing? im saying we used to put actaul dry ICE (that you get in blocks) on our brushed stock motors before a race, not a charger.... :neutral:

Sorry I meant my Duratrax Ice charger to break in electric motors. Speaking of dry ice, where do I get it and how do I handle it?

Back in the early 90's when i raced oval . We used to break in our motors under water or a motor break in solution with a slave motor . then we would use brake cleaner to dry out the motor .

i always use to chuck the shaft up in my dremel and turn it on 5,000 rpm and run it in water for 2-3 min and then spray them out with brake cleaner or motor spary, put a couple comm drops and couple drops on bushing lube and they were gold,

my dad use to keep some dry ice in a brown sack in an insulated bag, and used a ladle spoon to get a little and set it on the motor's can

A lot of the oval guys use a motor cooler . It acctually gets the motor so cold there is frost on it . :lol:.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...er-i-make.html

yup hippie, it all accomplishes the same thing. works great espescially on those scorching summer days. in the winter the difference isnt worht messing with it, but when is 90 + and your motor is 30 you can just watch it pull away on the straight compared to exact same setup.