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2100watts too much for Slash.
I'm beginning to think that three horse power is a bit much to stick in a Slash. My MMM, my Lehner XXL 1800, and my 6S, 3000mah Lipo survive, per charge, longer than the rest of my ride does.
In otherwords, my v3 hasn't cooked, yet... ...I know Murphy and his *@#$@#$ laws, he'll most likely fry it..........niow...but I'm willing to risk it! |
Uh yeah... what's the point of running a slash with that much power? They're already uncontrollable on 3S with about 700w of power. You might fry it through utter silliness though, probably the transmission exploding and shorting out the motor and everything else. Get a slayer and use your setup in that instead.
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I bought the XXL 1800, actually, for running with a 2S. I wanted all the torque I could get at the lowest RPM I could get for robotics. The 6S battery was an impulse buy. I need to pawn this thing off before it bankrupts me.
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There are motors with much lower RPM than that. There are outrunners in the range of hundreds of KV, and pretty small ones at that.
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if you were to get a 500kv motor wouldnt you need more than 6s to run it?
i realize that the lower RPM the more efficient but a slash with a mm 5700 system in it would still kick ass and be alot more controllable. |
With my setup, the bot drives at one half a mile per hour per tooth, max with 2S or 8cell NIMH. The 6S was an impulse buy and a mistake
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I just read up on the XXL 1800... the shaft is 4MM? Where do you find pinions with a 4mm bore?
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I bored them on a drill press.
Mount the pinion in the chuck and a 5/32nds drill bit in the vice. Works for gears 18teeth steel pinions and up. Anything below that and the pinion will deform when tightening the set screw. 5/32nds is about 3.9mm, but that .1 mm difference is about how much error you'll have from this process. To key the shaft on the XXL (because it is unkeyed) take a dremel and etch a tiny ding in the case hardened shaft, just enough to mate with the set screw, and no larger. If the color of the shaft changes, you should not cut any deeper and may have already etched too far. Quote:
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You could always seperate the pack into two seperate 3s packs!
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@ Coreyfro
Just make sure your wheelie bar is in good working order and you'll be fine. :yes: I wouldn't be worried about power until you get into the terawatt range.... |
linc can do the lipo separation.
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kinda off topic but why are most so hesitant to solder on lipos? i have built and repaired several of my own packs as well as others for my buddies. the only thing special i do is cover all tabs i am not currently working on with a piece of 3m 33 vinyl tape to prevent shorting w/the soldering iron.
just curious thats all. |
Gear that bastard up and see what she can do!
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