Feigao vs. Wanderer?
 

In all due respect, I'm a little bit against the feigao motors. Sure I love the price, but when it gets that cheap, I'm down right suspicious. Currently I own a Lehner basic 4200 and love the quality that it offers.

Now, I'm guessing the wanderer motors are rebadged by BK and upgraded somewhat? I was looking at their sight, and I see a few versions. I'm looking for a 5mm shaft L type motor with 2600 kv so what are my options there?

Also, will Mike's heat sink work with these motors? I'm guess since they are feigao's also it shouldn't be a problem. Thanks, with all these new choices on the market it is hard to decide.

As for a controller, I'm going back and forth between MGM and BK. I though about mtroniks, but I don't like the layout nor exposed wires and such. MGM's are a tad expensive and the brake problem is plain annoying, plus I don't want to fork out $20 for a cable. That leaves me with BK, Warrior's I suppose. One thing I don't want to run in my buggy is an Rx pack or UBEC. I know MGM's have great bec's, but will the Warrior cut it? Thanks a ton.

the monster heat sink clamp work with the wanderer. It depends on cell count for the bec. As for the 2600 kv Is that under load or not under load.

Do the bk motors need the clamp or are the endbells secured?

I will be running 12 cells in a 1/8th buggy. I'm hoping for 2400-2500 kv under load.

the bk kv rating is under load while the feigao is undloaded. and yes sylvester, the wanderers need the clamp because the endbell is only pressed on. basically the only phyiscal differences are that the wanderers are blue and had better bearings than the feigaos. other than that they are identical.

I know for bashing I won't notice the difference, but I want a quality motor with more torque than i'll ever need. I just don't see an $80 motor giving that

After some debate, I believe I have landed on the Feigao 540c-9L motor. Something appealing about that heatsink, and I can always pop in boca bearings:L:

Mike, any possibility of acquiring one of these motors through you. I just couldn't stomach blowing $280 on a 1940

I can get the Feigao "c" motors. I have been thinking about it, actually. I like the BK motors with the clamp, though. Better bearings from the start, and an xl motor will quite easily handle whatever ytou can dish out.
The latest crop of MGM controller have a fwd only option, as well as a few more nice features(drag brake, for instance). This should elimintate the double brakes=reverse issue they initially had.

As Mike stated, the newer MGM controllers have a "freewheel" option that allow them to spin freely without the brake effect. BTW, I finally got my 12012 back after 6 months (thanks, Mike!).

I like what I hear! Well, I figure since I would add bearings anyways, feigao is the way to go. Now 10L or 9L for a buggy? I'm looking for mid 30's so the 10L seems nice, thinking the 9L is overkill.

If you aren't looking for a lot of speed, the 10L will work just fine. Runtime will also be longer with the 10L over the 9L.

Well, if you give me:

Gearing you expect to use
Transmission ratio
Tire diameter you want to use
Voltage you expect to run (or number of cells)

I can give you a "best guess" speed from that info.

Michael

Actually, after looking at the specific wanderer ratings, I'll need a 9L (2400 kv) or 8L (2800kv). I have always looked at the 2400 kv rating since I was happy with low thirties in my xxx-t, and I don't see any reason to push the envelope. I could always opt for 14 cells, depending on the controller I choose.

Mike, when are you expecting to have these in? Wanderer 20 Series L that is?

Also, I am converiting an mbx pro, but when i set up the chassis, its seems as if it'll be a really tight squeeze with cells and motor on sides. I'm wondering what it would take to have an equally strong mount on top of the center diff? I'm worried about flexing though.

just to let you know, I had alot of trouble with a xxx-t and basic 4200, kept ringing out the ball diff, the balls would melt around and cut up into the gear, I now use the T4 with my 4200 and the stock gt trans it carries holds up alot better

Thats interesting, I had that problem once a long while back. I rebuilt the tranny and adjusted the slipper, elminated the problem ever since. I also invested in some industrial strength loctite to hold the diff together.

Don't go with the 8L for a 1/8 buggy unless you plan on using 10 cells. It will run very hot, give poor runtimes, and get the controller hot (unless you gear so low that it gives poor performance). The 9L is a very nice motor for 1/8 buggies (run one myself).

A lot of people make motor mounts using aluminum angle. Mine is a complete unit, with the rear bearing support being integrated into the motor mount, and a custom front bearing support. It is very sturdy, but you need the tools to do it. Aluminum angle (~3/16" or 1/4") would be the easiest way to go, assuming that you could find a large enough piece. My first ever motor mount was a 1/8" piece of aluminum that was attached to the bottom of the chassis using an angle piece, attached to the diff using the brake mount screw holes, and attached to the upper diff plate using an angle piece. The motor was over the diff, and bent the motor plate almost immediately.