RC-Monster Forums - Slayer Transmission Problems

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Slayer Transmission Problems

bashing around and it Quit pulling clutch bell gear and clutch is good spur gear and slipper clutch is good torn tranny down and no gears are stripped all look new any suggestions

When you say quit...what exactly happened....pics. would also be helpful

it just quit pulling would not go forward give the throttle and the to gears turned and no movement will try to get pics

Did you check your drive shafts/diffs. as well?

well you think both would go out at one time no wheels pulled and its 4x4

If all driveshafts are ok and the problem is indeed in the tranny, check the OWB on first gear and the small pins holding the gears onto the shafts.

DUMB question but how do I post pics here and OWB is good

When you respond to a post, don't use the Quick Reply, use the Post Reply button. There, you can add attachments, but are limited in pic dimensions and file size.

If the OWB is good (should grab in one direction and not the other), then look at the little chrome pins holding the gears to the shafts. These DO snap under BL power. If this is the problem, there is a sticky made in the Revo section (made by yours truly) that describes the "pin mod".

Look close at the smallest white gear on the right. See the hole? The other side has a pin removable via hex drive. Pull it out and see if it's broken. The same thing is found on the other two shafts. Usually, the pin on the output and/or middle shaft will break first.

ok checked pins on gear in pic far right and far left they good don't see a pin on gear in middle of pic

Finally found problem pin on middle shaft was in three pieces had to destroy gear to get it out

hey Brian have you found any options for the slayer tranny pins for the middle shaft it's not a threaded pin just smooth looked at your pin mod thread and nothing there about that one any suggestions

That sticky does have the mods needed for each shaft; quoted from the sticky:

Quote:

I noticed that whenever a pin broke, it was right where the threads meet the shaft, so that must mean that that spot is the most stressed. So, I modified two of the stock pins so they are about 7mm long each and then threaded both screws on each side of the gear hubs so the shaft tips meet inside the shaft. Below is a pic of the modified screw pin:

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/pinmod5.jpg

When cutting the black FOC pins and the original chrome pins (same size, diff color), the black ones seemed to take longer to cut with the dremel, so I think they are harder. This method has an added benefit: Since both sides are now captured, if a pin does break, the broken end won't fall out and mess up the other gears.
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Steps for each shaft:

Input (top) shaft: Since 2 modified pins will be used: in the plastic gear hub, enlarge the hole on the other side of the gear hub (opposite the threaded side) using a 7/64" drill bit to allow for the threads of the second pin. Modify two of the stock chrome pins like in the picture above and screw them in. The chrome ones are OK to use here because the pins have less force being exerted on them due to the gearing.

Idler/middle shaft: Basically do the same thing as the previous step, but use two of the black FOC pins instead. The pins here need the extra strength.

Output shaft: Since the output shaft is a softer metal, and has enough diameter, drill out a 2.5mm hole in the output shaft and the gear hub. There is no suitable "standard" size that properly equates to 2.5mm. Then drill a 1/8" (or 3mm) hole in one half of the hub to allow for the larger pin threads.

Another thread Completely Dominated by THE Brian G.

Go Big G! Go Big G!! Go Big G!!