information on kb45 motors?
 

i can't seem to find the maker of this motor or any of its specs. i have a kb45-8xl motor that i bought used and would like some info.

on a side note: how can you tell ho many poles a motor has? for example, i know feigaos are 2-pole while cc/neu and medusas are 4-pole

Ta-da:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...hless_Inrunner

If you plumb 'kb45' into the search feature, it yields a few useful results, such as people who've used the motor in various setups and such.

Cant remember if its 2 pole or 4 pole off by heart, think its 4 since reports say it produces butt-loads of torque, but is prone to running warm/hot.

2 pole motor, internals are identical design to a hacker/feigao... The rotor is larger in diamter, and these motors are very powerful. I have only run the L cans so far, and they performed as well as an XL feigao with more torque and less heat. Not as efficient as a neu, but for around 60 bucks they are great motors.

The 6mm shaft and 30mm bolt spacing with m4 thread will deter most, but I have had the shafts turned down, and found 6mm bore pinions too. I made my own motor mounts as well. These are great motors, but will most likely have some issues as the cq is not as good as a high end motor. Buy 2 and you will most likely end up with at least 1 good motor...

The same 35k rpm max rule as the feigao have applies here too. Considering the sixe I would try to keep the rpm around 30k max. That should cure any magnet glue or material failures. Plus at that rpm they will run cooler. I never got my 8L and 10L over 150 in the gtp, and it was geared for 50+.

I plan to run a 8xl on 6s lipo in my 7th scale car with a 2 speed. Gearing it for 90 in 2nd. I think it will pull the load just fine, hopefully the MMM can keep up.

sounds like a good test for the kb45 linc

Should be... I need to get the 2nd speed spur situation sorted, and have a mount made to my spec for the motor... We will just have to see how it does. I may even make the mount myself...

I've only ran my 8xl kb45 for one 3s pack in a heavy e-maxx and it was way more powerful than a novak hv6.5 in a stock e-maxx. Then my endbell fell off. (No loctite Linc?:slap:) I'm very impressed initially and will soon be running 6s.

Never had the endbell come off either of the 2 I ran. I guess you just bought a bad KB, I would not do that again if I were you. I always buy the good KB motors, cures problems that way.

i bow to you sensai:tongue:

i am using the kb10l motor in my 13.5 lb 2wd vehicle on6s2p a123 ad i am happy with it. A LOT more powerful than my the wanderer 9xl I was running this vehicle with before.

so, if the l-can motors are more powerful than the fiegaos, my 8xl 1600kv on 6s lipo is going to be complete overkill in a savage x 4.6. :yipi:

maybe, i'll buy the 1400kv L-length motor if the xl destroys my drivetrain.

Dan@kershawdesigns told me that the KB45-8xl motor is about %40 more powerful than the cc/neu motors. if the flux can do standing backflips, what will i be able to do?:intello:

i'm going to lock my tranny into 1st gear by tightening the set screw in the tranny all the way. i ordered 5000mah 25c zippy 3s lipos and i'm hoping they are enough to power the motor. i will run 18/47, so i think it will be geared a little low and it shouldn't draw too many amps. if i want more speed, i could always use a bigger pinion.

also, i don't have to worry about qc issues as i bought my motor used. the shaft is already ground down to 5mm and i have a custom motor mount on the way from Dan so all i need now to mount it is the 4mm screws. any suggestions? hobbycity has them, but i'm not taking any chances. the one person who reviewed them said the heads break off easily.:whip:

i use the kb458l in my lst2 conversion on 6s pushes the truck real nice and has alot of torque plenty to flip it on its lid with no problems.

you used the 8l on 6s? thats 51k rpm. that seems way too high for a cheap motor. do you have any overheating problems?

no probs sofar

If you want to lock the savvy tranny in 1st just get p/n 100905... It is the flux center shaft and gear. All you need to lock it and the gear is metal too.

wouldn't tightening the set screw all the way be sufficient for locking it in first?