Rustler MIP's???
 

Well I picked up a new set of MIP Cvd's my Rustler. They installed nicely, good look, good fit, seemed strong. So I proceeded to make a couple passes up and down the street. On about the 5th hard pass, I lost power and brakes but could still turn and I could hear the motor rev. So upon walking to pick the Rustler up, I stepped on 1 of the CVD's. I picked it up and it looked like this:

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...P1010006-1.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...P1010005-1.jpg

Now I'm assuming the other one broke in the same manner and flew off somewhere. I couldn't find it.

My question here is: Is this the common breaking point for the MIP's? or and I overpowering them?

My setup:
CC Mamba Monster
Neu 1509/1.5D (4500kv)
18/40 Mod1
4s FlightPower 5000 25C
Jaco Foams

Is my setup too powerful? Am I turning too many RPM's?

What would be the next best thing? FLM's?

FLM's FTW, plus they have a good warranty

...Going for 100mph are we?

They both broke? At the same time? Wow. Congratulations!!....*ehhem* I've snapped a whole bunch of the pins, but never broken a drive cup. About the only thing that would surely be stronger would be to use a dogbone setup. There are a few ways to convert the Rusty axles to dogbones- just search the forums and they'll turn up. Or hopefully someone who knows will just post here...

*edit* Oops. The FLM's are dogbones. I need to :sleep:.

Common breaking point if the pin doesn't fail first, My T4 ate a lot of pins and on ocassion the cup.
+1 on the Fast Lane Machine's dog bones or CVD's you ain't gonna break them.

the original t-maxx tranny had a 5mm output shaft. I've used those output yokes with original maxx shafts cut to length, and then replaced the 5x11 bearing in the carrier with 6x11 bearings (to accomodate the new 6mm axle shaft) and then used maxx 17mm adapters and buggy wheels. Holding up so far to a 60mm medusa on 4s.

Well this FLM kit is CVD's, its for the standard width Rustlers.
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...lm26515&cat=31

But if I was to go with the Wider FLM arms, then I could use their Dogbone kit.

I just wanted to make sure FLM's were the cream of the crop before I drop another $40-100 on shafts and possibly arms....

I'm betting the pin slid out enough to catch on the A-Arm and pop the CVD. Check your A-Arm for gouges from the pin. If you see any, that's what happened. Been there, done that.

The pins and the pivot piece is still intact in the axle shaft. They are in the same spot as when I installed them.

Can someone PM me Jamie's phone number at FLM?

I think all their dogbones are aluminum. Their CVD's (steel), extended and regular length are the cream of the crop, but still bend. Thank god for their warranty.

636-742-4181

Ok, so I'm running stock Rustler arms. I ordered kit FLM26515 which fits the stock rustler arms and FLM24800 arms. I just got them in and before opening anything, I noticed that the 2 shafts in the package are not of equal length. I know that can't be correct after installing MIP's of the same length.

Anyone have a clue? I tried calling Jamie, but no answer so I left a message.

Mike if you see this, any instructions or what to do?

Since you guys didn't know the answer, I emailed Mike. He helped and then directed me to FLM. After some quick measurements, the problem was resolved. I received a FLM26515 kit, it contain a correct shaft and a shaft for the Slash kit. FLM quickly apologized for the inconvenience and shipped a correct shaft out.

I would like to thank both Mike and FLM for their help and great customer support! Thats what makes this hobby great!

That's great to hear they got you taken care of.

Where would one go to find pic's and/or the build of said Rusty? :oops:

If you are speaking of my rustler, then here you go:

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...r/P1010012.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...P1010011-1.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...P1010010-1.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...P1010009-1.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...P1010007-1.jpg

I need to shorten the ESC/Motor Wires. I'm swapping all battery connections over to Deans right now. I should have the CVD's in soon and I'll start making some more passes and get some GPS readings.
I have a RPM wide bumper to try on the front inverted as a front spoiler... we'll see how it works.