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-   -   E-revo power plant (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22752)

dave_mackinnon 08.05.2009 11:11 AM

E-revo power plant
 
So, I just received my pair of 2S Flightmax 5000 30C hard case lipo's from Hobby City (in an impressive 5 days - including the weekend, BTW) and was doing some reading last night. Rumour has it that the stock Titan 550 motors don't really like being pushed with Lipo's for long..

So the question is, what is the best bang for the buck in terms of an upgrade replacement? Brushless is clearly the way to go in terms of maintenance... Do I grab something used when the inevitable happens, or the Turnigy 2350Kv kit? How does it compare to a MMM/2200 combo or the Losi Xcelorin systems?

I don't need insanity or uncontrollable power.. Just fun, reliable performance for bashing and roaring around with my friends...

Look for some feedback / ideas gang...

BrianG 08.05.2009 11:35 AM

The MMM/2200 setup on 4s will run fine without being excessively powerful. Insane is when you apply 5s-6s on that setup.

You can go with a Turnigy system to save a few bucks, I guess it's just a matter of how much programmability you want and how much you value customer support/warranty.

Arct1k 08.05.2009 11:56 AM

IMO hands down MMM/2200 is the best "value" system at the moment given support factors...

The Tekin looks like its winning the best "Race" system at the moment...

simplechamp 08.05.2009 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dave_mackinnon (Post 310337)
So, I just received my pair of 2S Flightmax 5000 30C hard case lipo's from Hobby City

Sorry to be off-topic, but how do those batteries fit for you? I just got the same ones and the case is exactly the right size, but I didn't account for the wires coming out of the side, which is what is giving me some issues. The wires don't allow the hatches to close, at least for me.

I was thinking of drilling a hole in side of the hatches, just big enough to fit the wires and deans plug through, so they can come out of the side.

What are your plans to get them to fit? If you already solved the issue can you explain what you did?

Thanks

nitrostarter 08.05.2009 01:52 PM

Definitely the MMM/2200 kit. Its completely versatile and can be run various different ways for your likings.

Look here for a steal of a deal:
http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...r_refurbs.html

$225 with a warranty. the ESC is a refurb without a switch and the motor is BRAND NEW. Steal!

JThiessen 08.05.2009 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dave_mackinnon (Post 310337)
. Rumour has it that the stock Titan 550 motors don't really like being pushed with Lipo's for long..........Look for some feedback / ideas gang...

Its just a rumor. They operate best if you direct wire the lipos to the motors (skip that ESC thing - just gets in the way).
Make sure you have your controller on before you plug the batt's into the motors.

If for some strange reason that doesnt work out so well, try out one of them there Castle combo meals. They work pretty good!

Finnster 08.05.2009 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JThiessen (Post 310412)
Its just a rumor. They operate best if you direct wire the lipos to the motors (skip that ESC thing - just gets in the way).
Make sure you have your controller on before you plug the batt's into the motors.

If for some strange reason that doesnt work out so well, try out one of them there Castle combo meals. They work pretty good!

wait.. what? Direct wire the batts to the motor and ditch the esc?

Might as well ditch the radio as well as you will just have a runaway WOT rocket. I'm sure you meant that more sarcastically that it reads... :)

dave_mackinnon 08.05.2009 04:16 PM

Thanks for the feedback guys...

Singlechamp - I got the batteries a couple hours ago, so I'll look at the installation tonight.. I picked the side-exit in hopes of not having fitment issues.. Not sure what my plan willl be.. I'll let you know tomorrow..

Arctik - what would you say was the difference between the 'value' and 'race' systems? Performance? Linearity? speed?

nitro - thanks for pointing that one out.. hadn't seen it. kinda annoyed at the proposed 'near lethal' programming options.. had a good chuckle.. Any instructions that state "This is where you may need two people. Hold full throttle on the transmitter and plug a battery into your Castle ESC." is looking for disaster!

Jthiessen.. actually, I wanted a little more control than that.. so I was just going to wire up a 3 or 4 30Amp Bosch to a PIC and control the relays in parallel for a nice on/off throttle response! hahaha - thanks for the smile though!

What do you guys think about buying used ESCs and motors? Risky? Safe?

BrianG 08.05.2009 05:00 PM

Personally, I think used motors are more risky than used ESCs. A used ESC might have been pushed or thermaled a few times (which will shorten its lifespan) but if it works, it works. A used motor can be partially demagged and you can't tell if any heat issues you have are due to the gearing, or a partially bad motor.

Ideally, new is the way to go. Or at least go for the Castle refurb deal. Can't beat that IMO, and still get a warranty. Try getting a 1 year warranty on something used...

suicideneil 08.05.2009 05:02 PM

Depends how used they are and who used them. More established members on forums with good feedback are pretty reliable, and you can guage the condition of the motor/ esc by looking at the photos- if they have nothing to hide the pics will be clear and numerous, with a good description of how its been used.

I would point you to LincPimp's motor sale thread in the general section for a good example of a trust worty seller.

nitrostarter 08.05.2009 05:15 PM

Linc does have a ridiculous amount of motor and does take good care of his stuff. I wouldn't hesitate on buying from him.

sikeston34m 08.05.2009 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simplechamp (Post 310375)
Sorry to be off-topic, but how do those batteries fit for you? I just got the same ones and the case is exactly the right size, but I didn't account for the wires coming out of the side, which is what is giving me some issues. The wires don't allow the hatches to close, at least for me.

I was thinking of drilling a hole in side of the hatches, just big enough to fit the wires and deans plug through, so they can come out of the side.

What are your plans to get them to fit? If you already solved the issue can you explain what you did?

Thanks

This requires a little "out of the box" thinking.

Insert the pack into the compartment wires first, leaving enough room on the wire end for the wires to come around the end of the pack, then up through the existing wire holes.

This does shorten the lead length somewhat, but IMO, they are a bit long anyway.

Then insert your foam spacer, (or whatever spacer) to prevent back and forth shifting during the run.

By using this method, they work with the existing setup with no mods.

If you try to insert the pack, wires out, it's not very possible to make that sorta bend.

simplechamp 08.05.2009 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sikeston34m (Post 310474)
This requires a little "out of the box" thinking.

Insert the pack into the compartment wires first, leaving enough room on the wire end for the wires to come around the end of the pack, then up through the existing wire holes.

Nice! Give this a try Dave, worked for me on my first try. Snug, but that's what you want. My one concern is that it seems like it might be stressful on the connections/wires having such a tight bend right next to the case pressed tightly against the battery compartment.

How long have you run your batteries like this sikeston? Any issues with kinking, pinching, or yanking a wire?

sikeston34m 08.05.2009 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simplechamp (Post 310479)
Nice! Give this a try Dave, worked for me on my first try. Snug, but that's what you want. My one concern is that it seems like it might be stressful on the connections/wires having such a tight bend right next to the case pressed tightly against the battery compartment.

How long have you run your batteries like this sikeston? Any issues with kinking, pinching, or yanking a wire?

Inside the pack, all the wires are soldered to a common pcb board. In other words, they support each other. I don't think connection stress will be an issue.

Limp Silicone wire can handle bends like this. If you prevent the pack from shifting around inside the compartment, you will also hinder/prevent abrasive wear.

I've ran them 3 or 4 times like this and they still look like new. Good Performers too. :yes:

dave_mackinnon 08.06.2009 12:41 AM

Unfortunately I had my rc10t4 out tonight, I didn't have enough time to charge up the new lipos... So that gets bumped another day.. Boo


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