ERBE Motor Plate Brace
 

I don't know about anybody else but I've wasted a few spur gears the last 8-10 months and finially decided to remedy the situation. Landing very large jumps or botched landings the motor mount plate will flex and chip a tooth or two of the spur gear and heres a simple easy fix. I will be testing this mod Weds.
All thats needed is a P2 pushrod and some hardware and a 1/8" bit and drill.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/P8180008.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/P8180006.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/P8180007.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/P8180009.jpg

Looks good, I have always wondered about the super thin motor plates on the traxxas stuff. Maybe if they were made of High Strength Steel, but al at that thickness is not really the optimum material. Some redesign or bracing from traxxas would be a good idea.

I'm hearing ya, If this fails to hold up I will make one from a steel. Don't want to double up the AL plate, to many extra mods then.

Just plain sexy!

I like it... I look forward to hearing how it works.. I like bracing:

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/p...icky/014-1.jpg

That stock motor plate is very flexible, it is some cheap aluminum that is barely 3 mm thick like the aluminum chassis of a nitro Revo. I tried doubling up the motor plates and they still bent. The motor/mount is heavy and they are hanging from that plate. I went back to that 6 mm thick carbon fiber plate I made and it is much stiffer and stronger but CF does not dissipate heat like aluminum does so my motor runs 10 degrees hotter. That rod looks like a good solution. The best would be a 4 mm motor plate machined from billet aluminum. Like 7075 T6 aircraft grade stuff. Strength, stiffness, lightweight and heat dissipation. While you're at it, machine the motor mount also from that same billet aluminum with larger fins for better cooling. Add a brace similar to what you did on top of that and that motor wouldn't budge at all.

I'm surprised no one makes a sturdy aftermarket mount for the E-revo. Seems like it would be a no brainer for the aftermarket companies.

Nice work Jeff!

the E-revo motor mount might be low CG and everything...but i run the E-maxx setup (motor over tranny) and it NEVER bends and i am shocked at how long my spur gear has lasted!!
this spur gear has about...geez....10 race meets and about 5 hours bashing on it and it's STILL going!!!:surprised:

but everyone running the E-revo style mount at the club is stripping spurs and so are the guys here....wonder if the higher CG is worth it??

Thanks Jason,
HotRacing makes 2 styles and they are nice looking, but I trust those A-holes as much as that Integy garbage.

http://www.hot-racing.com/?c=431

I've gone through your build/mod thread several times, good stuff !
Sooner or later someone will come out with a CNC'd plate, hopefully ?

Yep, those don't look any better than the stock E-revo ones. If anything they look cheaper. We need something bomb-proof.

Are you running the stock body?

Who you asking :neutral:
If me,here;
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23008

OH I see. Right, just several of the guys at the Traxxas forum where have problems with there thin stock bodies collapasing hitting inside componants. Resulting in stripped wires, stripped spurs, bent motor plates. Definently not your problem. Let us know how the bracing works out.

Here is what I just tried:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...3522Medium.jpg

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...3523Medium.jpg

I liked Bondonutz's idea of bracing the motor that he posted above, but I was concerned about bracing it to the chassis. If the chassis bends, what type of pressure is that going to put on the motor and gears? So I wanted to keep it simpler and eliminate the (possible) variable of chassis flex.

The brace I installed definitely cuts down on the amount of flex of the blue motor plate significantly when I push on the motor. Now, the most of the motor movement (which is reduced from before installing the brace) is due to the gray part of the motor mount (attached directly to the motor) separating slightly from the blue motor plate. So, to eliminate this, I would have to do something like Bondonutz did - or figure something else out.