How to open up a Quark?
 

A week ago I bought a Quark on eBay, and it arrived yesterday, but it doesn't work because the red cable to the receiver isn't soldered to the board :whip: (Will e-mail the seller about that) Anyway, I've got the side of the Quark opened where the battery wires, receiver wires and on/off wires come out. But now I have to open the otherside of it and the plate above it. (Where "Air Master Quark-80B S&T" is writen on) How do I get these off? I tried different things but it doesn't work and I don't want to damage the case.


And I've got a second question: As I said the red wire which goes to the receiver isn't soldered at the board, and I'm a huge noob at soldering things to a ESC board. (or how do you call that green piece?) Is it hard to do? And a 100W iron will be a bit too much, right? How many should I use, 30W?


Thank you,

Patrick

I believe there are sticky thermal pads holding the case to a hear spreader, which is then stuck to the fets, so you have to spread the sides of the esc open, then carefully prize the case away from the pcb. PCB (Printed Circuit Board) is the name of the esc board itself; 100watt iron is a little on the hot side yeag :lol:, I would say your 30watt iron is fine- you want a fine tip since you're only soldering a tiny little wire in place with a tiny blob of solder.

If you do a search for 'quark' or 'quark 125b' on this forum, there should be plenty of threads on opening up & modifying the esc- it was very popular several years ago, so lots of threads on it if you go back far enough.

Well, I don't need to get the whole PCB out of it, I only have to get access from above. So the only thing I have to remove is the top of the case.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...4th-quark1.jpg

The part where "Roadster Quark-65A S&T" is written on, that part I have to remove, but somehow I can't....

You have to take the little piece of trasparent plastic 'window' over the LED's(will hit a couple components when trying to slide it off)... use an exacto knife to do this, is what works. The top plate, with a little work on the end plate, should slide off no prob.