How to build it?
 

I've just received my things from Mike to build up a full aluminum maxx from FLM and mostly UE parts. I want someone to help me in building the 7.5 8 spider diffs. The 8 spider came with no instructions and I'm very confused. If somebody can help me with pics and whatever info he has to help me complete the building of the diffs I'll be most appreciative. Thanks.

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...ctionsV1.1.pdf These are straight from UE. Hope this helps, if i had these diffs, i wouldve tooken you step by step but the revo doesnt use 1/8 diffs, YET! All i know of is to properlly shim the diffs.

Could you please take some pics of alll the parts? I'd really like to see how they look :)

You'll find these instructions most usefull, if not, just let us know.

Thanks, but the link is not working with me. BTW, I bought the 8 spider gear set which means I will need a setup kit for these diffs. Mike sent me this setup kit, only. Is it this the one I'm supposed to use with the gear set:

Do I need two of this or only one?!!

I had a 6 spyder set and only used one. You need adobe reader for the link.

I'm having some trouble to make the bearings fit the hybrid bulks. They fit in one side, but they hardly fit in the other side. It needs to be smoothered a bit. Now I can say that FLM is but nothing compared to UE.

You just have to dremel a bit of the aluminum, FLM may need a little work to get a perfect fit, but man, for the price, you just CANT beat it!

The bearing holes have a very tight tolerance. The UE VBS is about the same, to be honest. Most every intricate design will have slight areas where you may have to trim a touch (UE VBS is tight in the suspension arm area, for instance). I wouldn't dremel th bearing holes, though. The bearings are snug, but they will go in. Also, one diff setup kit is usually plenty for a pair of diffs. You may not even need those, but better safe than sorry.

I though they didnt fit at all, its ok to have a tight fit for a bearing, its a whole different story for suspension arm area!

Don't want a to tight bearing fit though. You'll know why when you disassemble the diff for maintanance/ new oil.

It's true that UE has a tight arm fit. I had to trim some racer x arm's to smooth it out. But remember, UE built their arm's around the stock bulk's, I run ga's. It only take's 0.1 mm to cause possible problem's.

I rather trim something down than add material.....

Enough of that, people. I guess I have to go through problems if I want to become a real hobbyest. Well, about the differentials, could you please tell me, in your own wording, how to build it? I managed to put it together, but I dont know about those red O rings. Where do they go? the big ones works like an oil sealer where you put it around the edge of the diff's case. Right? do I have to use it on both sides of the case? What about the small ones?!!

You really should get adobe reader. The 8 spyder is such a complicated diff that it is hard to help you build one without picture's.

Your right about the big o ring. The small o ring goes on in the small notch on the diff side's(where the output for the cvd's go thru).

Okay. What am I supposed to use inorder to make the setback arms fit the rear hybrid bulk? No matter what, its simply wont get in. Hey guys, please, I'm a member here and I'm in a very critical condition. I thought putting a supermaxx together is like building up a 4WD touring car. The parts are much bigger and that should make the whole building process alot easier, right? But it seems each time I solve a problem, a bigger one pops up. I dont want to wreck the truck which costed me over 1800 dollars with out motor or controller or servo or even batteries and receivers. I dont know what type of dremel I have to use. I dont know which part I have to modify first, the arms or the hybrids?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Could you take a pic of it captain? I don't understand what is wrong. I have had to use a file to thin some things down to fit like they supposed to.