Quark 80b and hacker c40 motors
 

So i bought these two setups. one for my flm rusty and one for my flm pede. bought two quark 80b controleers thinking they got to be good cause there so pricey. then i matched them with some hacker c40 motors. Well i soldered all the stuff and shrink wrapped the wires and took forever to program these things. I got some maxamps packs that are 3s 5250. Tried the pede out first with my 5000 7.4 venom lipo. the motor is a c40 5l. Its worse than my vxl setup because it stutters so much at low speed, (or do i mean cogging). once going its ok. runs for about three minutes and then shuts off. Running 76/16 gearing. Not happy with it! my Rusty stutters (coggs) like crazy! I have a c40 6t in it. with 11.1v it went no where. then the power shut down. I thought i had awsome equipment and now i will i would have got the castle esc's instead. Why am i having these cogging issues! Is it the chassis? My install? Someone help please!

I've had really good luck with the Quark 80b controller.

You need to check your settings.

Make sure start power is set to high and be sure it's set to inrunner.

Hmmmm................

Yea i did that. set for lipoy high

Can it be the Aluminum or maybe some type of wire interfearance?

Caps
 

Do you have a cap bank or some caps in your setup? There have been a few threads regarding modifications to help with cogging. Also I have a Quark 125b NIP that I am not using if you would like to move up. It is still brand new in the box. I just never got around to using it. I also have the RCM heatsink to go with it. There aren't many of them left around, but I know some people still love them.

No cap bank. I just finished this install last night. Do i need this cap bank? I read those forums also and im not sure if this is whats causing the problem. What are you looking for the 125? I dont have a use for it now but I was looking to get a 1/8 ve8 soon. Also is this a common problem with these units. my vxl did the same thing but this is worse.

I was planning to get two of those heatsinks also

Make an offer.
 

Make me an offer for the heatsink and the 125b. Shoot me a PM and lets make a deal. I am sure that someone will want it, and I am not going to use it. I have too many other ESC's at my disposal MMM, RX8, MGM 120/24, & Schulze 18/97.

As for the caps. I have not worked with the other Quark ESC's, but I am sure that some one will chime in here to help with that. The caps help to smooth out the voltage issues keeping the ESC working smoother than usual. It is a common problem. You may also check out your radio wires to make sure there are no shorts anywhere. If you are using an FM radio and receiver it may help to move up to the 2.4ghz radio gear. Coggin can also be related to the ESC in relation to the pole numbers in your motor. Some are just not compatible. Those are just some of the issues that I have read on here with cogging problems.

Jerry2kone you rule! I got an m11 2.4 radio. Everyone says that these controllers are smooth! Smoother than the mm. I have a mm and a mmm. Thought that since this was so pricy that it would put my mm to shame. My hacker motors are 2 pole motors. I'm gonna check over my wires and if I get nothing from that then I will be selling two quark 80b esc's. What is your take on these controllers. Where do they stand in your opinion?

Just here to help
 

I am just here trying to help out when I can. I purchased the 125b a while ago planning to use it in one of my SuperMaxx projects, but just never got around to it. It is the only Quark that I have, but there are a few guys around here who have used them religiously with great success. Most go through the modification process by adding the Cap bank, which as I stated helps smooth out the voltage for better startups and smoother runs. BrianG or lincpimp can probably help out where that is concerned. Just shoot one of them a PM and they will get back with you on the matter.

As for the Quark ESC I have to check what the 125b and heatsink are worth these days, but I am sure that we can work something out. As I stated earlier I have not used any of the Quarks myself. Some like them allot, and some just have bad luck with them. More than likely due to bad setups and/or poor technical skills from not doing their homework.

Electronics are always somewhat of a gamble even if your setup is right on the money. There is allot to be considered when you get involved with ESC/motor combo setups, and you have to do your research and homework to make sure you get things right the first time and do not have to learn the hard way that your installation was not done correctly. Voltage matchup, Amp draw, motor max rpm, BEC choice, gearing setup, wheel roll out, diff gear ratios, and proper battery choices should all be thought out carefully, before taking any chances with your hard earned money. I have read about allot of guys being pissed off because they could not get warranty assistance, but most of it was because they hooked things up incorrectly in haste and burned up their own setups.

Been a while since I set my Quark ESC up, but when done correctly it's still smoother than the MM. Don't get me wrong, the MM with the latest F/W is damn close to the Quark. The 80B is good for the 6T, but not the 5L. You need the 125B for the 5L motor. I have both the c40 6T(in my RC12L) and the c40 5L(was used my crt.5) I blew my 80B a while back due to my own fault, but my 125B still kicks butt in my Hyper7. I do use a external bec and Luciano's cap bank. Best go back to your settings and see what's wrong.

Before you get all wound up, check your esc to motor connections. If you are using bullet connectors, especially 4mm ones, ditch them and direct solder the wires together. I have had alot of issues with connectors between the escs and motors. Only decent connectors I have used are the giant castle creations ones.

Bar that you most likely have the lipo setting wrong. My memory is a bit rusty but there are 3 lipo settings, and I used medium and never had issues. The dynamic startup did help on a higher setting, but only with outrunners that had really high gearing on them. I had a few 80 escs, a couple of 125b and a few 65 amp escs too. And a 33 amp esc. All worked great, but I did smoke a few with extreme setups.

You know the the gentle man who sold me this setup I think told me to directly solder the esc to the motor also. As of right now, my 5l is working 80% better than my 6t setup. Is this cap bank available or do I have to build one and solder to this main board of the esc? I'm not sure this thing is worth all this hastle. What do you guys think. What are these even worth?

Castle makes some nice high current 4mm bullets, I had issues with standard 4mm bullets but after switching to the CC ones I haven't had an issue

Lutach
 

RCM member Lutach is the man to talk with about the Cap bank. He would be your best bet for that custom work. He has done a few in his time. That is the thing with R/C. Once you start working with the higher end stuff you end up spending more and more money as time goes on. Anything outside of stock is going to cost you $$$$. Let me know if you want that Quark 125b.