RC-Monster Forums - T-Maxx Classic to brushless conversion

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T-Maxx Classic to brushless conversion

I have a T-Maxx Classic, I'm converting it over to Brushless. I have the ECU, Motor, Bateries, E-maxx Tranny and Diffs already my problems lye in the tranny it is narrower then the mounting holes on the T-maxx classic chassie. I do have an Emaxx chassie but would prefer to use the aluminum one. Also switching to the E-maxx chassy changes the steering and other things. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Also does anyone have a line on what drive shafts and axles I should use? If you guys would like a full list of what I have let me know

Thanks

Azule

My suggestion is for you to sell the tmaxx and just get an Emaxx chassis for your conversion. The front and rear suspension(arms knuckles etc) will work with the newer chassis but not the steering system.

As mentioned I already have the E-maxx chassy. Who would want an older T-maxx Chassy? Are they being used for mods?

Ok well then I think Ill go with using the E-maxx chassy and go from there. Just wasn't sure if anyone knew of a fix.

Thanks

I came across some really inexpensive 3s 15c 11.1vlt batteries are they worth trying on this truck or even my Stampede VXL

Link to lipos? 15c is really really low, but without knowing the mah capacity its impossible to say how well they might do- at best though they'd be okay in a mild rusty, definately no good in a full sized 4x4 MT.

You need atleast 25c 5000mah ( 120amps continuous ) for most large escs to run from.

What esc/ motor & other parts do you have for the conversion- are they newer or older model emaxx parts? Post up some pics of what you have & provide as much info as possible so that we can assist you.

Just an FYI though, posting in 2-3 year old threads to try and get an answer to an unrelated/ non-specific question wont get you much help; stick to one thread, and keep all your questions there- brushless conversions are better placed in the brushless section as it gets much more traffic.

Hello Thanks for the reply.

Ok here is everything I have,

All the items on a stock T-Maxx classic including electronics.
2075 Steering Servo 125oz x 2
E-maxx Brushless differential x 3
E-maxx Brushless Heavy-Duty Transmission
E-maxx Brushless Chassis and Plastic Parts
E-maxx Brushless Speed Control ESC (E-revo
E-maxx Brushless Motor Castle Creation

I don't have a bec but i need to get one from my research. Wonder why my Stampede VXL doesn't need one.

So what do you think I need?

I was hoping to use the aluminum chassy.

I do have access to a cnc aluminum cutter. But id need the cad files to create a special chassy.

I know I don't have all the bolts and screws yet.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Azule

You won't need a BEC if you are using the speed control from a BL E-Revo, otherwise know as a Castle Creations' Mamba Monster. The Monster has a built in BEC which will power the receiver and servos.

Fantastic. I have the 2215 receiver from the T-maxx I tried just running the electronics but I wasn't able to fire up the motor. I think ill have to take a look how the ECU is to be programed.

Thanks for the information.

There is a specific calibration procedure, have a check on the castlecreations.com website for the manual, but its basically:

1) connect batts to esc & turn on
2) hold full throttle on the radio & turn on
3) wait for beeps & led to change color
4) pull full brakes & wait for beeps + leds to change color
5) release to neutral and wait for beeps
6) esc will beep arming tone and then be ready for use

Make sure all your throttle trims are at neutral and the epa is set to 100% for forwards and reverse, and the throttle is in 50/50 mode ( not 70/30 or 60/40 etc ).

You can rig up some mounting adaptors if you really want to use the metal chassis, just a couple of strips of aluminium with 4 holes in each to line up with the mounting holes on the tranny & the chassis.

If you just want a metal chassis though, look into the FLM 3905 chassis, will work perfectly with your parts & is much stronger than the stock nitro chassis- and longer too.

I finally completed my conversion its amazing I'm taking it out for a test spin later today. Its amazing how similar and how different everything is. Made some modifications but I'm also building my own metal chassy on a friends C and C. Will be sweet when I'm done.

Thanks everyone for your help Ill keep you posted on the upgrades.

Hello everyone,

I had a tough time doing this conversion due to a lack of easily available details so I thought I would include them in this thread.

This is a quick not necessarily complete guide to converting a T-Maxx Classic (2.5) to an E-Maxx.

The items you will need are as follows. Please feel free to substitute parts as you see fit for your own hop-up's and gearing.

Item Name ------------------------------------- Item Number

Pinion Motor Gear 17T ------------------- 5643
Brushless Screws --------------------------- 3159, 2552,
Differential's -------------------------------- 5614
Spur Gear ------------------------------------ 3960
Motor Mount ------------------------------- 3397X
Gearing Cover with screws--------------- 3977X
Slipper Clutch ------------------------------- 5352X, 5351
Rear Driveshaft ----------------------------- 5458X, 5452, 5650
Front Driveshaft ---------------------------- 5452, 5458X
Brushless Axles ----------------------------- 5451X you need 4 of these
ECU Mount/ W Screws ------------------- 5626
Mamba Monster Motor ------------------ Contact Castle Creation (Ebay)
Mamba Monster ECU --------------------- Contact Castle Creation (Ebay)
Mamba Monster Link Castlelink -------- Contact Castle Creation (Ebay)
Chassis braces, lower (black) (2) -------- 3921
Chassis ---------------------------------------- 3922A
Heavy-Duty Transmission ---------------- Can't find a part number for a complete tranny (EBAY)
Steering Servo 125oz ---------------------- 2075

Notes:

There are a number of screws that I haven't been able to locate the part numbers too.

Now You can use the T-Maxx steering set it will work but with the extra power you may want to look at getting the Full E-Maxx version.

You can use your original T-Maxx servos to do the steering but using even one of these is far superior to using two of the 2018's

The wheel mount portion of the axles needs to be removed from the 5451X and replaced with the ones from your T-Maxx. This will allow them to fit the wheel hub carriers but they have a lot less strength. If you want to keep from twisting UV joints Upgrade the hub carrier to the E-Maxx Version.

Please feel free to make revisions or suggestions to the list.