Monster Micro SCT build
 

Got me a micro SCT for the time I'm TDY, here's what I've been doing-

Losi Xcelorin 8750kv setup
MX-3 2.4Ghz
HS-55
Losi 2s lipo
Scheer CF chassis
micro crawler tires on rally rims
56T aluminum spur/brass pinions

Overall I like the upgrades so far but I'm having a problem with cogging. See the video below. I really want to ditch the Losi setup and go for a 3s Quark 22A and Neu Proton 5300kv to light up the tires and get rid of this bad losi gear.

Vid of cogging (720p if you really want to hear and see how bad it is):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kULqW4qqLFk

Pics:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/77252e50.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/a4467f36.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/b8480c95.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/2f04f133.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/52f11f06.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/cf5a4678.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/facd1a98.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/e47e793c.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/1f702152.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/51767f4f.jpg

A deans connector may help your cogging issue.

So you're saying it's not getting power to the esc? When I pick up the truck or have minimal load on the motor or drivetrain it starts up without issue. I've checked all connections and I know the lipo is charged.

When I program the Losi ESC, I have to have the channel reversed on the MX-3 or it won't program at all. Any ideas?

Yah, the highest load you'll see is just as the vehicle starts moving. If you have a volt meter you can probe on either side of the connector (just push the leads into the backside of the connector on one wire at a time) and look for a voltage drop when you load the motor holding the car in place. Just don't do it too long and overheat anything.

Hope that makes sense.

Yeah it makes sense. I'll have to get one on there. You would think it would still work though, Losi distributes the kits and upgrades with that same plug...

looks great, how well do the diffs hold up?

Diffs are holding fine right now but I haven't been able to run it much. This problem is really holding me back.

gtxracer, lipo's put out a higher current without much voltage loss under load. I assume Losi was anticipating people using this truck with Nimh's or strait up alkaline batteries.

I'd put a deans on the motor/esc wires and direct solder the motor leads to the esc leads together as well.

The lipo, bl system, and the original components all share the same connector and Losi says they are all compatible with each other. These are basically bolt on parts, however I'm using the 1/36 system in a 1/24 vehicle. Others have used this same system with great success so I'm not sure why mine is glitching. I also tried the stock NiMh battery and it didn't change.

Drove it around a bit and I'm pretty sure this motor/esc combo just isn't enough for this application. I'll probably get a Quark 22A and a Neu proton this week. Any other suggestions would be great!

I have some mini sized Dean's on my Xray M18T, they seem to be the perfect size for 1/18 and should be good for your build too. I think the full sized Dean's are bit too big, and the micro Dean's are too small, but the mini's are just the right size.

They are the black ones: http://www.progressiverc.com/index.p...emart&Itemid=1

Let me know if you get a Proton motor. I have been thinking of getting a Neutron motor (next size bigger from the Proton) for my Xray and was wondering how these little Neu's perform. I have no doubt they will be solid, like any Neu, but more wondering the 4-pole vs. 2-pole in smaller scale.

Those look like a good choice, I'll probably use those.

I know of a couple people using the Proton 5300kv motors already with good results. Overall I should have done more research on this and ordered a Proton to begin with. Anyone want a 1/36 Xcelorin system with minimal run time? haha

Couple pics with the body trimmed.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/ddcd58a2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/cc71a2fe.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/4b2013db.jpg

New to the forums? I've seen you around here forever!:yes:

I can't believe nobody told you to try a smaller pinion. If you can't try a smaller pinion could you possibly try smaller tires? Cogging is simply too much load, lighten the load.

The quark is nice, but I'd check out castles micro stuff. They even have a 9600kv 20mm motor on clearance for $15 and a few 26mm motors for $25. http://www.castlecreations.com/promo...clearance.html

after re-reading the thread and looking at the pics i'm sure putting the stock tires back on would help.

you gotta gear down or motor up.

It did the same thing with the stock tires with a stock setup. There's a few others that have the same problem. I'll try the smaller pinion although this is a tiny motor for this size of a truck. Oh and I copied the text from another forum because I was in a hurry, haha.

I'll look into the Castle stuff, I wanted to run a Sidewinder Micro but didn't want to spend a ton. I might be able to swing for those 20mm motors though.