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-   -   Associated rc8be :) (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29616)

arvint 03.22.2011 08:33 PM

Associated rc8be :)
 
Hey!

Have a RC8BE on the way! :D Sold my emaxx, so time to get a new buggy...
I also got the Grid RC motor mount, although it's expensive, I heard that it's a great improvement over the stock design :)

Also...how does this look:
Tekin 2050 system (Or the 1900kv?)
Hitec 7955TG Servo or the 985mg
Aluminum shock standoffs
Aluminum nuts
Grid motor mount (.63)
Hotbodies 20t pinion
FT Rear aluminum/front aluminum carriers
10x1.1 tapered pistons
MUGC0257 gaskets
DE racing Mud garuds
DE racing Rear skids
DE racing front skids

fastbaja5b 03.22.2011 08:47 PM

I think you'll need a bigger Pinion than a 20 if you're going to run 4s. I run a 19t with a 2200 Castle Neu

As for the Grid mount, beware as it severely limits your pinion choice, and I have heard people having issues with stuff taking ages to arrive etc, enough to put me off them.

arvint 03.22.2011 08:55 PM

Yeah..but I heard anything over a 20t pinion isn't needed on the tekin combo..
the 1900 needed an 18 or a 19t, and the 2050 was happy with a 20t :)

arvint 03.26.2011 12:51 AM

Which motor should i go with? 2050kv or the 1900kv?

arvint 03.29.2011 07:07 PM

Front and rear is assembled! Waiting on the 1900kv tekin system, and for the gt3b recievers to get back in stock :P
Painting to body too! Gonna be a realy simple job..

http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010116.jpg
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010115.jpg
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010114.jpg

arvint 03.30.2011 07:57 PM

oh yeah..wondering..

About chassis braces, my track mates say that the plastic ones aren't too strong..

But there are two different kinds,
Ones that are aluminum
and ones that are like turnbulckes..

Whats the difference?

slimthelineman 03.30.2011 08:49 PM

Plastic ones will give a little more traction in the rough stuff by letting the chassis flex front to back and torsionally a little. They are inbetween the turnbuckle type and cnc'd type. The turnbuckle ones will not allow much front to back flex but still allow torsional flex(twisting of the chassis) the aluminum cnc'd ones won't allow flex in any direction and are better for smoother hardpacked tracks like the ones here in socal which are indoor and clay. Hope this helps.

slimthelineman 04.02.2011 09:59 PM

Anyone running this buggy blown out a center diff lately? The last two outings have fried my center diff after 10 minutes of runtime. Not sure what's going on here, ran the car for three years now on the origional diff, but since I rebuilt it the same way I built the original per the instructions two have failed. Maybee a bad batch of gears or something? Sucks rebuilding diffs all the time, never ran a clutch before and am seriously thinking about it at this point.

arvint 04.02.2011 10:01 PM

I am..Just installed it..and it's leaking..I heard a common fix is,
1. Making sure you have the newer updated clear o rings,
2. Mugen Gaskets (0257 i think was the #)
3. Sanding the diff cases where they meet.

slimthelineman 04.02.2011 10:40 PM

It's not leaking it's blowing out the teeth on the gears inside. When this happens it locks up and is useless. Running indoors on a high traction clay track and thinking maybee it's too much for the diff? Either way I'll give it one more shot and the next time it fails I'll try a slipperential.

arvint 04.21.2011 09:26 PM

Pics as promised!
Never liked painting black bodies..but I had 4 bottles of black leftovers..so I got lazy..but it came out nice :)

http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010123.jpg
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010124.jpg
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010130.jpg
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010132.jpg
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010133.jpg
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010135.jpg
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010136.jpg
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010137.jpg
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010138.jpg
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010140.jpg

arvint 05.09.2011 01:35 AM

Update:

-Aluminum wig mount braces/spacers
- FT aluminum front hubs
- FT aluminum rear hubs
-FT front chassis brace
- FT rear chassis brace

http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010158.jpg
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010157.jpg
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010155.jpg
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010154.jpg
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010156.jpg

DwightSchrute 05.09.2011 07:44 AM

great looking buggy!

arvint 05.23.2011 02:59 PM

update:

Savage needed a new servo..so I moved this one to the savage and got a SUPER high speed hitec one on sale :P Easily the fastest servo I have ever oned at .07 secs at 6v..and .06v at 7.4v, it's up there :P
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010171.jpg


And the battery came in..finally..
http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/P1010172.jpg

pinkpanda3310 05.23.2011 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slimthelineman (Post 403294)
Anyone running this buggy blown out a center diff lately? The last two outings have fried my center diff after 10 minutes of runtime. Not sure what's going on here, ran the car for three years now on the origional diff, but since I rebuilt it the same way I built the original per the instructions two have failed. Maybee a bad batch of gears or something? Sucks rebuilding diffs all the time, never ran a clutch before and am seriously thinking about it at this point.

I had a similar issue with my RC8T. Plastic spur, metal spur, plastic diff case, metal diff case, I tried a few things but the only one that stopped the problems was Mike's slipperential :great:


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