Soldering/Wiring/Ice ESC/Bullets PROBLEMS & QUERIES
 

Hi guys...

Im approaching the end of my build and need to work out the electrics...

NEED SoME HELP AND ADVICE

Firstly.
I was trying to solder my ESC Bullets but ran into a prob straight away...
The bullets castle creation 6.5mm bullets are too small for the tinned ends of the ESC! So i cant connect to my motor wires!

Even my 5.5mm bullets do not fit onto the tinned ends to connect to my lipos

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...4-19114554.jpg

What do i do???
I donot want to cut the wires? as that will cause a bottle neck of power and result in heating up the end?
Do i drill the bullet out?



Second Query.... Regards to my BEC, My Twin Servo, ESC etc and my RX...
How does this all connect up??? Mainly in relation to the BEC

Obviously my ESC wire goes into ch2 of the RX and my steering goes into CH1

But with the BEC.... how does that connect to the servos? I use two servos... one for steering and one for my mech brakes

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...4-19115511.jpg

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...4-19115610.jpg

Also... in order to power my BEC, should i solder the power wires directly into the ESC 5.5mm bullets?http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...4-19115557.jpg


THANKS A LOT!

Large Wires can be a pain in the butt.

There are two things you can do to make the over sized wires fit your bullet connectors:

#1. Heat up the soldered end and crimp it while it's still hot. I use a crimp tool that produces a rounded crimp. This reduces the overall diameter of the soldered end.

#2. Sand it down to size. I don't like to do this. But it will work.

Your BEC will plug into the receiver just like the servos do.

I would power the BEC at the ESC bullets.

I hope this helps. Good Luck with your build.

I assumed you had already squashed the ends with a pair of pliers when you called earlier, but if you hadnt, try it ;)

Bec plugs into the BATT port on the receiver, as long as its set to 6V or less your golden :)

BEC wires, yup, just solder them to the batt wires at the point they enter the bullet, then route them as you fancy :)

Sike, i wound wanna sand down the ends either... but te crimp tool sounds awesome! got a link? ;)

The BEC does not connect directly to the servos, you simply plug the BEC into channel 3 on the receiver and the servos pull power from the power rail in the receiver.

Dremel the tinned ends until they fit. You only have to remove solder, once down to the wires it will fit. I just did this with my Mamba XL, with no problems whatsoever. Don't worry about bottle necking.

Made a video to help out another with the same CC connectors... It's 2parts.http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_u...?v=O9WL05jYa2A

Just cut off the end bits that castle had pre tinned for you. When they tinned the ends they don't twist the wire strands and that causes them to expand. Just chop them above the tinned area, strip back the insulation, twist the ends with your fingers and then tin them with solder. Be careful not to press too hard with the soldering iron as it will cause all the strands to unravel again. After you do this you should be able to fit them into the bullets relatively easy. Its how I do it and works a treat every time.

As for the bec do like others said unless you are using large scale servos. When using large scale servos I like to run a Y-harness with the big servos so that the receiver doesn't have to carry all the current. This isn't necessary if you are going to just use standard size servos.

Have to agree with Big-Block, I listen to a weekly podcast of flight stuff (I know, not cars), and a guy, Lucien Miller (?), a very wide distributor of Scorpion Motors, and the owner of http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com

He ALWAYS recommends cutting the pre-tinned part off, and re-doing it, because you really don't know what solder CC used.

It could be a high, or low temp solder, and it would be better off to use the same constant solder all around, then having your own, let's say low temp solder mixed with high temp solder, the bond between the two wouldn't be as solid, as it would be with a constant low temp solder..

Temp is just a variable, could be anything, really.

You'll want to plug your pistix into the y-harness to ch. 2 and then your esc into the pistix. You'll also want the pistix accessible so you can unplug the esc and plug it into your Castle Link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9WL0...e_gdata_player

Seems the link I posted may not be functional...

Is that a 6v servo, or a HV servo though? If it's HV ( 2s lipo or ~7v ) then the wiring will be somewhat different ( only the signal wire will go to the rx and the power wires will go to the BEC ).

I don't think you need to worry about this if you trim the exposed wires a little to make them fit. The current will not only flow out of the end of the wire into the connector, but also through its exposed sides.

THANK YOU ALL FOR CHIMING IN...but

Im a little confused with all your replies... Let me just get this right first...

Is this how it should be set up? i have included my pistix adaptor.
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...ingdiagram.jpg

I have chopped the original tinned ends and made my own smaller ends, YET THEY STILL DONT FIT. It is as if the place for the tinned end is much too small!

Everyone with ICE HV use 6.5mm bullets for the motor connectors and 5.5mm bullets for their lipos right?

Its 0.75mm too small in diameter and the wire cannot compress any smaller...
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...4-19114339.jpg

Get some 8mm connectors... :yes:

For the BEC...any particular reason you can't just plug it into the Rx? The BEC power leads are soldered to their respective (+) and (-) leads on the ESC. Normally you can strip back the insulation on the ESC power lead and wrap/solder the BEC wire around it. The BEC output can just plug into an empty slot in the Rx, or, if you don't have one and need to direct-wire the servos, remove the red/black wires from the servo leads and connect them in parallel to their respective outputs on the BEC. Then just plug the servo lead with the white wire into the Rx channel.

If the connectors are getting hot enough to melt even "low temp" solder then you have bigger problems to address. If the bonds aren't strong then that's what you call a "cold joint", meaning the connector/wire wasn't hot enough for the solder to stick to it. The only solders I've ever used for electronics are 60/40 Tin/Lead and 62/36/2 Tin/Lead/Silver. Even when mixed they perform fine.

Well yes.

But how about lead vs. lead free?

Many manufacturers are using more lead free, to get some stamp of approval, and mixing with lead solder wouldn't be too fun.

It's just another variable...