Castle mentined in Leopard add
 

Now I have no idea what they mean by this. Maybe Patrick could shed some light on it. I found it funny that they would drop Castle's name like that. I hope I am not breaking any rules here.

DO they mean that Castle had some how, in some way copying or dissecting Leopard motors.:lol: I find it laughable but wouldn't mind hearing from Castle.

Where did you see this? I think it's crap, they are just playing on the hype that some how some people believed they were castle motors with just a different etching on it....
And I can spot errors in their sentences! Where is my reward!

Google is your freind...

http://www.helipal.com/leopard-lbp40...0cd1sppqar4115

http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm...olesalers.html

Yeah, I was helipal buying some parts for my Solo Pro 180 3D heli that I crashed (into my self). After I selected all the parts I need and paid for them I had a bit of a browse of the site. Was checking out the Leopard 4092 range and came across that. I had a bit of a chuckle and thought I would ask exactly what interest has Castle taken in Leopard motors. LOL.

Anyway I wish Castle still made the 1518 and the 1520 motors. I really need something along the lines of their discontinued 1520 motor. I can't justify the NEU prices at the moment (although I know they are kickass motors) so I looked at the Leopard. I hope magnet prices drop soon and Castle goes back to making different 1/8th size motors. I don't think that their current two offerings quite cover all the vehicles. I think that is about the only thing I can say that Leopard have on Castle at the moment. The range of winds and sizes is quite extensive, one has to admit. Castle, any chance of making more 15xx series motors guys?

Actually, even though Neu is a higher-end motor, the Castle motors are a better fit for vehicle use IMO. Not only are Neu motors open for dirt debris (which can be covered of course), but the use of the stiff coil wires outside the motor may fatigue and break from all the bouncing around in a ground vehicle.

I think the Leopard motors would be better off if they also used noodle wires.

Anyway, didn't CC comment on the motors at some point saying they used less expensive magnets and thicker core laminations?

Yeah, that's right.

The interest we showed was basically this: I told the Leopard owner to STOP COPYING our motor "look" and to stop implying that their brand was related to Castle.

They are a completely separate company. They are located in Shenzhen, Castle is in Zhongshan. (about 80 miles apart -- but both in PRD area of Guandong.)

Looks like they are trying again to imply there is a relationship between our companies, when there is no relationship.

I figured as much. Maybe it's time to give him a call again and tell him to stop dropping your name. Pretty low marketing tactic IMO.

Totally agree on that. I hate the coil wires. You are stuck with the length and if you damage them it's not a simple 2min soldering fix. Also if you strip the thread on the front end bell it is easy to fix with a Castle motor repair kit. Most of NEU business is from flying guys and I think they know that so their motors are more setup for air use.

Stiff coil wires have there own advantages. They are direct leads of the internal coils, a full-copper current path means less solder joints, less resistance, much higher melting point, making it safer @ higher amperage. As an example, Most of the very robust Neu motors have stiff wires, but letting the solder carry 100+A amperage is not an easy task, their recently made 1527s has a lot of complaint on the noodle silicone wire de-soldered and fallen out of the motor.

Castle on the other hand, did much better job in the coil - silicone wire soldering and fixing. Opening the rear endbell you can find a noticeable amount of epoxy holding the wires in place, the solder may melt, but won't fall out. Castle-Neu motors doubtlessly fit ground vehicles better, on an expense of the above advantages.

True, there are fewer point of failure, particularly for those pulling very high amperages. But for the typical user, the noodle style just makes sense.

As far as the wires desoldering themselves, can't a different mix of solder be used to increase melting point while retaining high conductivity?

Yes there are ways to get wires better connected. Two of those appear in my mind.

1) Pb free soldering. The special Pb free solder contains silver and does have better conductivity than old/normal 63%Sn+36%Pb solder alloy. Also the melting point rises from 23x to 27x degree Celsius. This solder process needs more heat and skill to be done well, especially by hand.

2) Copper welding. It actually let the stiff coil wire and the flexible silicone wire to melt together and then cool down. They become one single piece of copper after the process. You can imagine how tough it could be. I believe this is the ultimate wiring solution for extremely high power density RC motors. But this process generates high temp over 1100degree Celsius and must be done with an anti-oxidation environment, not sure how this can be done within such a tiny space in motors like the 1515. Also uncertain is how much would that process cost.

So most RC motor manufactures choose to leave this issue to the user: Look, we run the coil wire out of the motor, you do the rest work, if the solder joint desolders itself, that's your problem. Castle, again, doesn't follow this philosophy. :yes:

What I would like to see from Castle is solder tabs on the motors, solder posts on the ESC's and maybe even a lightweight 1800-2000kv motor.

While we are on the subject, I miss the bullets on the ESC, I even bought up a handful before they were out of stock so my extras were bullets. :)

You can solder onto the motor female post on the MMM.