my mugen mbx5t build
 

So i was supposed to get my mbx5t today but fedex decided not to deliver it until next Tuesday!

I plan on using the RCM mugen mount but I need some help figuring out the battery tray situation .. I have zippy 5000mah 40c 5s and 6s battery's and they are pretty big. Can i use the mbx6 trays?

Got my truggy today at last! I tore it down, pulled all the nitro bits off, made a list of little things i need; screws, bearings and such. I didn't do much today other than tear it down and clean it.

Anyone have some diff fluid recommendations? just some general starting guidelines to help me play with.

I also need to rebuild the shocks they seem to weep a little bit

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I really like the bull dog body. I will keep it in mind after I destroy my body.

As far as fluids go, in mine I run 20-100-10. I only bash and I run it w/a 1520 on 5s and it's a beast. Make sure to check diffs for shimming....my stock 5T needed shims to make sure that there was NO play in the diffs

What I do for batts trays is have Mike custom make them to my batteries dimensions so that they are snug and do not move. I do this on all my rigs and it has worked out well.

Here is a pic of mine from a yr ago....since this pic, I have switched radios so no big antenna, blacked out all my wires

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...e/DSC02945.jpg

Sweet ill make sure i go grab some fluids from the local hobby shop tomorrow and get started! So for track use would those fluids be a good starting point? A far as shims do they use 8x10xwhat ever thickness? I think i have some various sizes left over from shimming my monster GT diffs.

I have never been a fan of the forward cab design, but it's kinda grown on me. That body fits nice and snug up against the stock side guards. I was almost thinking of doing no body post and running Velcro on the sides of the body and guards.

Can't remember the exact shim size...that sounds right though. For track use try something like 15-30-5 in your diffs.

here are some updated pics...its a little dirty.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...e/DSC04230.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...e/DSC04232.jpg

Thanks for the help, What is your esc sitting on? i cant quite tell...Also what boots are you using for your cvd's?

Well i made some progress over the weekend! got the shocks and all the differentials rebuilt and ready to go. Also used some 3M dirt bike graphics that i picked up from work and made a chassis sticker to protect the bottom.

Ive made a list of all the pesky button head allen's that i can replace with capheads and gonna stop by the local Fastenal and order that up. almost 50% of the screws on my mbx5t where stripped from the previous owner!

Also will be ordering bearings from AVID shortly then after the chassis is all done and in tip top shape i'll be ordering my RCM mount!

Well I've gotten some progress done lately!

My 46T delrin spur came in to replace the 65t steel that was on it, I also received my RCM Mugen mount! Thanks Mike for the super fast shipping! it got here in 2 days!!! I installed the new gaskets and filled with 30k fluid and installed my slipperential.

While i was at it i used some 3m vinyl sheets of dirt bike graphics and made a custom chassis guard and added a DE skid plate and DE bump-skid

I added some foam and zip tied my battery in just to give her a quick maiden test run. temps seem ok @ 14/46 on 5s right now, but i'll wait to test it some more when my battery tray shows up and i can properly mount my battery


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I'd be wary with the ESC mounted that high. In case of a hard hit on the lid the ESC might get physically damaged.

I initially had my ESC mounted higher like that too. But I continued to revise it until it was nearly as low as the batteries. Now it would take a very hard hit to damage the ESC from landing on its lid.

+1 to that as well. My esc is mounted on an AL mount from Axial I believe. If you bought Mike's batt tray I hope you purchased one with an integrated esc tray...if you did no more worries!!

The boots for the cvd's are dynamite ones. They work, but don't seem to last that long. Still cheap enough to replace when they do rip. The ones on the wheels, axles are the wost for tearing.

Judging by the pics I'd say there is enough room to mount the ESC aft of the tray even if he doesn't have the tray with the integrated shelf.

That's just what I did! :yes:

something like this would work

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWJK9&P=7

Well I bought a Losi 8e tray, but I just cut the esc shelf part off..
Which I'm now regretting lol..hmm

Well you can still use it...the cut off piece. Pick up some spacers to place under cut off piece. Mark spacer holes on chassis, drill through chassis, countersink screws and drill through plastic and bolt together and done. Most hardware stores sell thick nylon spacers which would work perfectly. Just a thought

Well I got everything together today, I ended up using a piece of lexan and cut it the length of the chassis. I then drilled and tapped holes in locations that where already on the nitro chassis so i didn't have to drill my nice aluminum :great:

I still used the Losi 8e Tray, but ground down the bottom to make it sit flush. Drilled and countersunk holes in the top to mount to my new piece of lexan. I then reused the esc shelf i had initially cut off and used some nylon spacers i had and made a nice little shelf for it.

I tried to tidy up my wires and routing a little bit, It still needs a little work but it should do for now. I added a foam block in my battery tray so i could play with the weight placement a little bit, idk if I'll ever really need to but its nice to have it there just in case!

It's kinda hard to see all that i did but it came out really well, i do feel with the 5s 5k-mah battery it favors that side a lot...Maybe if i get a bigger motor it will help balance it out a bit.

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Looks good! The motor you are using looks to be a 1515? You may have to wind your motor wires together like I did to help with interference. It made a difference for me when the truck was quite far away from me.