Rear Anti Squat, any one experimented?
 

Any one out there experimented by leaning back the rear bulkhead to attain some anti squat? Or is it that since the hinges are parallel one cannot achieve anti squat?
Any advantages in doing so from a theoretical point of view?

Having extended my Flux to XL length and added a center diff, the beast still wheelies! And as i am in my second design stage to include a custom designed TVP was checking to see if it is worth the hassle to include?

If you are still getting wheelies, adding anti-squat will make it worse. Anti squat raises the front of the arm in relation to the rear, I think it sort of changes the the moment of inertia higher on the chassis. I believe it will make your problem worse, I'm not sure if an RC-Monster center diff will work, but you could use a lighter oil in your diff to help with it. what voltage are you running? 6s is almost uncontrollable in any chassis

Thanks crazyjr for your feedback, I know anti squat should reduce wheelies, but with other tradeoffs obviously, this is an extract from HPI Glossary HPI Glossary

You are right, but this should change the location of the instant center relative to the center of gravity and in a way should prevent squatting and transfer some of the load to the front wheels, hence less wheelies; i'm no expert but this is what i summed up after reading numerous web pages.

I'm trying to comprehend it more to see if i can incorporate it and do some tests. The issue is that the savage pins on the bulkheads which support the upper and lower arms are parallel. Would just angling the whole rear bulkhead backwards be sufficient or is a change in the hinge pin angles needed also.

Most RC buggy cars have this adjustment by adding shims under the front edge of the rear bulkhead.

Its a long shot but i would like to go thru the hassle ;) Hope others have some insight or some pointers.

Forgot your last part of the message,
Yup, you nailed it, 6S and also with a Mamba XL2 on 1717. Thats why i wanna tone the front down but keep the power...

I already have 50k in the center diff, still wheelies, front tires balloon like crazy! Other members have advised to go up to 500 k in the center diff, but felt it voids the idea of the center diff to start with. Maybe with the high temps in the center diff (measured up to 90 deg C in 40 and above ambient) 500k or bit less is needed.

More experimentation and testing required, need to find the time...

I understand your definition, but i was going from experience. in my case it made the wheelies worse. I had a traxxas SRT w/VXL/3500 setup, on a sandy track with level (0* antisquat 3* toe) it couldn't find traction. With 3.5* wedge (traxxas antisquat mount) it nearly flipped, The traction was so strong i couldn't run full throttle on the same track. Longer wheelbase and bigger truck, maybe it'll help. That setup you got there, I believe would be like putting a 2250 lehner in a CRT.5

tape those wheels:yes: Ballooning wheels have huge centrifugal force and lift the front end right up, causing wheelies.