E-Maxx Setup
 

Would this setup do well with a Novak HV-Maxx 4.5/6.5 on 14 GP4300?

(2) FLM Diff Cup/Modified gears $ 60.00
Traxxas Wheelie Bar $ 19.99
Traxxas 3.3 Axles $ 24.99
Traxxas 3.3 Axle Carriers $ 19.95
Pro-Line-Power Strokes (maybe?) $???.??
MIP CVD's Centers $ 44.99
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$169.92

Not bad!

Sounds good to me. I've ran the FLM diff cups with the Feigao 9L and never had a problem with them. Just make sure you use thread lock on the screws.

You may also want to pick up some aluminum diff cases. The stockers seem to flex under extreme load.

As for shocks, I've had powerstrokes and they work great! But they are alittle bulky and pretty pricey.

UE Supershocks are great and my favorite. And you may be able to get away with only 4 shocks pretty easily! Plus there threaded so its pretty easy to adjust.

3rd option our traxxas big bore shocks. Great shocks but not threaded.

For the money I'd say UE shocks, Big bores, then powerstrokes.

Of course this is all just my opinion. But I'm pretty familiar with the maxx.


If you wanted you could ditch the wheelie bar and go with a wing. Makes the truck looks cooler and works better IMO. Duhengineering.com makes some sweet Ti towers that except a wing mount. FLM also makes shock towers to do this as well. Both offer lifetime warranty.

TeknoRc also makes a mount thats works with the stock shock tower. Located http://www.teknorc.com/product_info....4afc3c258de513 and its only $26!!

To convert to the 3.3 driveline, you need more than that. You either need the new arms or the new RPM arms. the stock arms will be rubbing with the thick shafts.

I personally would take 7075 cups instead of the 6061 FLM's

I run revo knuckles and driveshafts with my stock maxx arms and never had rubbing. This is for a crawler but same concept applies I'd assume?

Your shafts should be rubbing, or limiting the suspension travel.

The new arms for the 3.3t-maxx have got a notch. (rpm also changed their design)

All you need to run the hv system is upgraded driveshafts (either 3.3's or cvds) and steel idlers, and I don't believe the idlers are necessary for the 6.5 system. I got away with stock shafts and idlers on my hv e-maxx for 6 months before I snapped a shaft, and my stock idlers still haven't given any trouble. I was running the 4400, which has virtually the same power output as the new 6.5 system, only the 6.5 runs a little cooler due to the better rotor.

With a stock transmission (with the play on the drivedog and the 2 speed gears) the idlers will be shot, sooner or later. Even with the stock motors it's a weak point.

You can always replace them once they start breaking..

I'm not gonna argue that, I guess they will go sooner or later, and I haven't looked at mine lately to see what they look like, but I got away with the stock motors with stock gearing and very good matched gp3300 and gp3700 7-cell packs for 2 years, and then the hv4400 with the same packs for six more months, and that takes you to where I am now. And now it is no longer in an e-maxx :D