gettin back in and wanna bl a rusty
 

hey right now i have a rusty and a pede and was thinking of getting some kind of bl system for one of them. ill probably end up selling the pede i think and making the rusty really nice but i havent quite figured it out. heres pretty much the list of upgrades i was thinking about getting
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD050&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHDJ1&P=ML or some kind of really nice charger
http://www.rcm-rc.com/products/produ...products_id=29 dont really know if this is worth it yet
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LXJJ94&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFVF7&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFVG0&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNY89&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNY90&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LXEV91&P=7
http://www.swami-rc.com/WheelieBar.htm
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LXAW60&P=7
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdId=DYN3220
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LXJG59&P=7 debating if i should get theseif that list is about correct all i need to know is a choice between chargers and batteries. im going to be bashing it around my backyard and probably at the sand dunes or some other place like that. would like around

well lmk if i forgot anything because i was just going by pretty much what misbehavin said a 10-15 min runtime so if thats possible thatd be sweet. i already have 2 ib3800s 7 cell but something haoppend to them and i dont think they work right so if someoen on here is an expert with them or someoen knows somsoen who can fix them itd be cool if you could tell me! id def. appreciate that! i also have a bunch of crappy 1500 and 3000s what can i expect the runtime on those to be with a good charger? like 5 min? also if i had paddles and i was running in the sand dunes will it make me lose any runtime or power/acceleration?

any answers will grately be appreciated! and as you can tell im very new to the whole electric thing.

Welcome to the forums! I first must say you pretty have everything on the list you need to bash i must comment on the chassis it is definatly the coolest chassis i have ever seen for a rusty if you went to a hobby shop they could probably bearly tell it is a rusty. As a matter a fact that chassis might make me just want to build my own rustler. As far as chargers the ice and the supper brains are the best bang for the buck so your on the right track, but i do believe the supper brain is a bit cheaper and it charges liy-poly (ice does to i think) so both a good choice. As far as the batteries go if you want more speed and longer run times go lipo and the orion, peak, or max amps are the way to go. If you decide to stay with cells a they sell a 7 sell matched pack w/deans at most hobby stores. But to get those run times any of the 3300 mah or over should get you those run times.

thank you! ya i coudlnt believe it was for a rustler too. i had to look art the description to tell what it went for lol. but im not sure about the lipos only because of the price and the safety hazards.. lol i like to jump mine off cliffs and do stupid stuff with it so idk about those but ill look more into it. well our lhs is a joke.. the 2400 cheapy batteries are like 40 -60 bucks over there... its got nothing special there so i wont even bother checking it out, but how much of a diff is the runtime between regular matched cells and lipos

lmk!

It sounds like you are building an older style rustler. Why not buy a newer one and just drop a Mamba 5700 in their with 3S Lipo and a Hyperion Charger/Balancer Setup?

That thing would FLY and with the addition of RPM arms and bumper should be just as durable if not more durable.

Those RPM arms you listed are for the Nitro Rustler, and are shorter than the stock arms, which would worsen the handling. RPM is now making arms for the electric Rustler, so look for those.

Instead of the aluminum idler, get the steel idler gear that is sold at the store here. The teeth on it won't get sharp over time like the teeth on the aluminum idler do. When the teeth get sharp, it will make the diff more likely to strip.

Good choice on the charger :).

Don't get the Duratrax bearing set. It includes 5x8mm bearings for the wheels, which aren't used when you have the RPM bearing carriers. You only need four 5x8mm bearings for the steering bellcrank (well, you don't need them, but they will make the steering a little bit smoother/less sloppy).

Hold onto the stock chassis for a while. You can shave down certain areas to reduce weight without decreasing strength.

CVDs aren't necessary. Run those steel yokes and get the steel Street Sport axles, and run the stock slider shafts. This would be less expensive than CVDs, and a lot less maintenance. And they will allow for full suspension travel unlikeCVDs. Personally, I run a dogbone setup using HPI Nitro MT parts. It's strong, and low (if any) maintenance.

hey guys thanks for more posts! i would have just gone out and bought a new rusty but my freind gave me these 2 trucks and i dont wanna go out and spend another 175 to get the newer one. o and bp-revo i think you are the one that i bought an hv-maxx system from a while ago. also i bought some crystals, mip cvds for the emaxx and some other stuff. not really sure though

and thanks for giving me the heads up on those a-arms i didnt even think to check that. and i will go agead and get the steel idler instead.

what is your setup for your rusty metal man? im trying to just build a fun and yet durable rusty. i plan on jumping it a pretty good amount and i want it to be able to climb hills and such.

also what are the deal with those lipo 4s and 3s or w/e. i remember a while ago looking into them but i cant remember what they mean or why they are better than regular batteries.

these those steel street sport axles your talking about?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&P=WR&I=LXJG04

also how do i do that dogbone setup liek you were saying? what are the differences with that and stock?

hey i just got a couple pics of those batteries that i was talking about that got messed up. tell me if these are fixable
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...baypics147.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...baypics146.jpg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...baypics145.jpg

and heres a pic of these batteries that i have i have like 35 of them and i knwo there not all that great but are they even worth charging up and playing with them? also what do you think the runtime woudl be?
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...baypics148.jpg
9.6 vlts 1200 mah (i do plan on getting nice batteries but for the time being if these would work at all then hell whynot use them.)

I dont suggest using those. Your car/truck is only as good as the batteries you use.
I would say go to your local radioshack and get some gp 3300 6 cell ni-mh packs. They are the best bang for your buck. I have three sets of them and rebuilt two of them to side by side.

Also the batteries that got messed up are fixable. Just replace the bad cell.

ya i will probably just end replacing them. im looking into lipos and those m1 batteries and i dont wanna spend too much money on nimh batteries if im going to end up switching to the other newer kinds so as i progess in learning new things i will decide what i wanna do.

I had been running a Mamba Max 4600 on 4s Lipo, but never ran it consitantly due to glitching problems and broken parts. On Saturday I was testing out my Rustler with a MGM Compro 12012 with a Feigao 12s (my older motor/ESC setup) with 4s Lipo, when a bad glitch took my Rustler into the curb at 40mph. That snapped the upper and lower chassis plates made from 1/8" thick Garolite G10 material. Soon I'll be cutting a chassis from 1/4" polycarbonate (flexible/bulletproof/clear plastic) that will allow me to use either 3s2p A123 cells (9.9v 4600mah) or 5s2p (16.5v 4600mah). I'll be using the Mamba Max 4600 system with the 3s2p pack.

The "s" that follows a number stands for the number of cells in series. 4s is 4 cells in series, and at 3.7volts/cell, is 14.8volts. 3s is 11.1volts.
Lipos deliver electricity at a greater power and energy density than NiMh, which means that they will deliver more power and runtime for less weight. In that sense they are better, but they are not as safe to use as NiMh.

ya i knew about that whole safety feature.. kinda sucks but i guess you have to take that risk. arent the new m1 cells like better than the lipos in a way? more power for less money or something? i was reading about it but im not really sure.

im thinking of making my setup with the mamba maxx system but i just need to look into all my choices. if someoen has a link to the pros and cons about all the bl systems that would work for a rusty that woudl be awsome!

thansk

so this esc/ motor setup would be the best out of the mambas?
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...MM_7700&cat=38

i believe that is the largest one out of the 3 or w/e there is. also appears to be pretty cheap. if i buy that what is required for me to do for installation(solder wires on and such)

The A123 M1 cells taken from Dewalt 36v packs are cheaper than Lipos. The cells are more robust than Lipos, and can be charged in 15mins on a regular basis (unlike Lipos).

The 7700 system will be the fastest on 2s Lipo or 6 cells. The 4600 is the fastest motor when you run 4s Lipo (the 5700 and 7700 can't take 4s Lipo).

hmm... well that would be extremely awsome to have a battery be charged in 15 min.. any downfall to this? runtime, power?? how would the 7700 compare to the 5700 or 4600 if your using just regular nimh or m1 batteries? liek is the 7700 the most powerfull motor out unless using a 4s on the 4600 i wouldnt like to buy the 4600 and need 4s to make it faster if i could just buy the 7700 and make it just as fast with cheaper m1 batteries.


i think im figuring out a little more of what i wanna do now that ive talked toyou guys! thanks