My new E revo (Evo)
 

just a few pics of my Evo that I just finished.
Its got tones of alum. upgrades and all of the mounts were either hand fabbed or modified.

Whats all in this rig...
Alum. diffs. x2 and bulkheads x2 with R&R gears inside each
Alum. suspention arms x8
Alum. steering blocks x4
RD logics CVDs front, rear, and both centers
Titainium pushrods 102mm x4
Alum. maximizer beedlock rims x4 with IMEX swamp dawgs
Alum. catis. 120t x4
Alum. front & rear body post mounts
R&R steel spur gear
Custom Alum. ESC mounting tray over rear shocks
Custom Alum. motor mount
Custom Alum. battery platform
Custom 1/16th gauge steel battery box (almost lighter than alum.)
Reciever box has been removed and converted the servo box for the now NEW reciever box
VG steel role cage EXTREMELY TUFF
Custom wheelie bar

tell me what you think...

Looks good eh! ;) Imo ditch the aluminum arms and get rpm.

NO WAY I snaped three of them at one time so I ditched them and went with these.Havent had a problem since.

Oh! I never broke a rpm arm, and i dont like aluminum arms when it comes to revos.. glad its working out for you, but you watch, one hard hit and BEND! ;)

Racing or in my case I would have one bend then break, at least I can finish the day it just runs like hell
lolol (REALLLLLLLLLLLLLL wObLy)

What kind of rims are those?

Very, very nice. :004: :004:

Awesome job on it!!

The rims are Maximizer Alum. beadlock rims. I paid about $180.00 per pair.
Like I said earlyier, I broke three rpm arms at one time but I also totaly demalished two rims and thats why I run alum. products now because even if something gets bent you can still run it just to finish the race or just bashing with the friends and your not watching your STILL RUNNING.

P.S. thanx RC

I have only managed to break three front arms in two years

@renny - if you bend aluminum, i understand you can continue to run, but what after, bend it back or buy another part?
@Larry - Those are stockers, right?
Have you guys seen the Vantage CF arms? They look Amazing.

Yes you are right that after the day is done then yes I do have to get new parts and I was actualy thinking about trying those titainium arms.
Their twice as much but THREE times as strong.

I just finished the first check of all of the electronics and everything passed.
NOW its time to deal with the tranny /no reverse/no brakes.
I`m using the stock chassis and the stock tranny.
I know that I have to get rid of first gear and then some how lock it up but I`ve never taken this tranny apart before SO....
WHAT DO I DO and HOW DO I DO IT????

Just take the tranny apart and do the following:

• Install the forward-only-conversion kit. This will greatly simplify the transmission and make it stronger. Plus, it'll weigh less.
  
• Remove the first gear. It's the largest one. You won't need it and it'll further reduce weight.
  
• You can do this mod, which has worked well for me, or you can use b0gh0s' adaptor thingy.

While you have the tranny apart, you might want to decide if you want to go with the narrow or wide ratio gear sets. Actually, since you remove first gear, there is no "ratio" anymore, but the second gear reduction ratio does change.

I sure feel sorry for your bulkheads! Id rather replace a $5 arm in 5 minutes than a $15 bulkhead in 30 minutes because my Titanium arm didnt flex when I cut to the inside a tad too tight. For a "race truck", it sure is heavy with all that aluminum on it!!!!!

I weighed it last night after I did the conversion to the tranny and it came in at 14.23lbs but I also have the steel roll cage in it.
OUCH!!!