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help me build a maxx racer!
hey guys, i would like to build a maxx for racing only. soooo, i need help choosing the chassis and suspension. i want this to be able to compete with nitro buggies in the hands of the right driver, lol. i was thinking of the g2 chassis with extension, but need everyones info on the whole thing! thanks, tally.
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Givin money is not an object, I would go for:
UE VBS Towerless bulks UE Racer-X suspension UE Racer-X setback rear arms UE 8mm CVD's UE Gen4 servo saver UE Monoblock extension Gorillamaxx G2 CF chassis RCM Slipperential HB diffs FLM shock towers w/wing Proline Powerstroke shocks Dace 23mm hubs Velocity 0 offset rims Crimefighter or Bowtie MTR tires Thats pretty much the majority of it... |
will all of that handle the same abuse that 8th scale stuff handles an the track, or will i be buying new arms every month?
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Nope. The UE stuff is damn near indestructable.
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theres already a mbx5 with a neu and mm on 4s at my track, so i want to do a monster truck to spank the revo boys! i just want to make sure it'll all still be ther after the race. why not ue 8 spiders for diffs? also i would like for my brushless setup to run on 4s2p lipo. i was thinking an lmt 1930 or 1940 with corresponding kv. which size motor and why. i know the 1930 will be more prone to overheat, but it should be extremely quick and make for a lighter setup, right? as far as esc, this is the weakest link in my opinion, i choose bk 36120. i know its overkill, but i have had really bad luck with controllers. doesn't bk make a 36150? if so i'll get it! controller issues are what got me to sell my g2r.
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The Lehner 1940 is a killer motor. The 1940/7 or 1940/8 would be perfect on 4s in a race emaxx. Depending on the size of your track.
If you want the ultimate race maxx, pretty much just copy Mikes. I dont think anyone has a better race maxx than him. |
I would go with a Neu 1512 with the Mamba Max or a Quark 80 or 125. Yes, BK makes a 36150, but its completely overkill. As for diffs, I just prefer the HB. I think there more than enough and you can easily find replacement parts since the Savage parts would work.
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squee, makes sense on the diffs. i'm completely sold on lmt motors, i loved my 1950. so is it 1930 or 1940?
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Id hold off a few weeks and see what GMaxx has up its sleeve with new parts. Maybe a new G3 chassis is on the horizon. Possibly updated suspension. Who knows. But it shur would stink to buy a new parts just to have a newer version released a week later.
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1940 or 1950. 1950 if you are planning on building an al aluminum truck.
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the truck is going to be aluminum. my g2r had a 1950 in it and was ballistic! i was running 18/51 and could gear up more. i think it was overkill though. it had a 1950/8 and ran on 5s and 6s lipo. even on 5s it was way to much for my small track. what i want is a lighter truck that is nimble and quick. my g2r was heavy and stupid fast, that made for a decent truck on the track and a crazy fun truck on the street. sooo, this time around i have a better understanding of what gets around faster on the track. thats why i want a lighter more nimble truck like the nitro revos.
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Perhaps a 1940 would be a good motor then.
Mike is running a 4S setup on his Neu, which is a blast too.. |
When I said copy Mikes truck, I meant more that he should set it up the same whay with the chassis, suspension, diffs etc. Mike seems to have it dialed.
It sounds like he has locked in on the Lehner/BK motor and esc combo. To me creating a power system that is capable of racing is not the challenge. The Lehner and Neu motors are definately both up to it. And with the esc he is talking about there should be no issues there. Only downside to the BK controllers is that you need an external LVC for lipo. |
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i doubt if the 8 spiders are any stronger than the 6 spiders.
The 8spiders use aluminum gears, while the HB's use hardened steel gears. I have seen several UE shafts broken... |
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