e-maxx or ? e-savage
 

and no i dont mean the e-zilla e-savage i mean the gas 1/8scale savage converted to electric i have a perty stock e-maxx other then my proline powerstroke shocks and aluminum bulks and i am sooo tired of breaking driveshafts and a arms and etc etc .... and i already know the recomended upgrades .. but do i throw all the money into a car i am very sick of taking apart or do i just buy something much more durable like the 1/8scale savage and do a electric conversion ? now i have no exp at all with HPI or the savage but everywhere i read they say the savage is like the most durable basher out there and i only bash and bash hard i do ... so lemme here some pros and cons :)

Personally, If you bash hard, go with the Savage. If you do, let me know, I might be willing to take those Powerstrokes off your hands. :)

also should i concider the revo ? i know the electric conversion is fairly simple on it but im unsure about the savage but mostly i want durability

Revos are durable, but it your really a hardcore basher, go with a Savage. No doubt. Revos are more at home on the track, but don't get me wrong, they can make one hell of a nice basher.

Yeah, the Revo is a nice basher. That is my bashing truck. I have a Savage in pieces in my garage that I have had the intention to build as an electric basher (and make the Revo a racer), but the Revo is just so good at racing and bashing that I haven't gotten around to it :005:.

i dunno its a hard decision i kinda like the fact the savage is 1/8th scale not 1/10
for some reason that makes me think its more durable...

Personaly I would stick with the Emaxx since you don't have to buy one. Then on top of it, you already have a head start on hop ups. The truck is a PITA to work on, I'll give you that much. But there is a few things you can buy that will make working on it easier...plug beef it up a little. I would also think twice about keeping the stock a-arms. I look at them as a controlled break. Their my weak spot and easy to replace add a very fair price. Here is my suggested list:

CVDs
Aluminum towers
Hex screw kit
Hardcore skids

While the savage might be 1/8th scale, it is probably heavier when completed. And heavier trucks break easier than lighter ones in my experience - kinda like dropping a mouse vs an elephant out of a second story building. :)

Personally, if your gonna go with the Maxx, go with RPM arms, 3.3 setup, FLM towers, FLM skids, and a FLM chassis. That should get it pretty close to being bulletproof, aside from the diffs.

Oh ya, if you just have to have aftermarket parts...RPM is your company. Their arms are a lot more elastic compared to stock arms. I would buy an extra pair just in case. I've broke an RPM axle carrier on my Revo. They replaced it for free but I still had to wait a week for the replacement part.

i agree on keeping the stock a-arms so i can have that as a week point and there not that hard to change i would like to beef up the diffs cuz hey are annoying to get to is there anything thats not major $$$$ that will beef up the diffs ? or that i can replace the diffs with ?and i was gunna run cvds but im afraid they may bend .. and that would really piss me off lol so i was gunna go 3.3 revo sliders but then realized i would have to go to 3.3 knuckes and diffrent a-arms....then it turns into alot of money at one time. i was thinking of going with the flm chassis tho its $90 and thats a ton cheaper then the other ones and everyone says there super strong..

Well I may get flamed for this but the T/Emaxx is the worst truck out of the box to work on in my opinion. I didn't buy my parts to beef it up, I bought them to make it easier on my lazy butt lol That is why I run CVDs...I was sick of replacing stock plastic shafts! They also make it a little easier working on the rest of the truck. As for bending them, I'm sure if you bash, you'll break/bend something. That is the nature of this hobby. As for the diffs, I'm not sure on that one. I would atleast run aluminum diff cups. I would also look into some steel idler gears for the gear box as well.

I vote for the E-Maxx. I love my E-Maxx. It needs some upgrades to be reliable for bashing but parts are EVERYWHERE for it and at all price ranges.

If you are a serious thrasher/basher only then pick the Savage.

If you want a great does-it-all truck buy the Revo.

thanks for everyones info iv been looking at cvds ... and they are out there for alot of diffrent prices MIP goes for $40 ish just for 2 on the other hand theres a few others where i can get the full set for $40 ish... metal is metal right ? also since my a-arms are stock and such is there a diffrence in the 2.5 and 3.3 cvds ? and on another note my truck just stoped moving today it sounds like striping gears i took out both diffs and i cant see any signs of wear on them so i checked out the tranny and it looks fine to i put it all back and it still does it. anyone know what this might be ? could it be the diffs flexing enough for the gears not to touch or since i got my truck used could it be because there arent any shims of some sort in the diffs?

I had this happen before and all I had done was bump that red switch with my thumb. The one used for reverse on Tmaxx/Revos. The gear box sounded like everything was stripped out. I flipped it back and everything worked.