Rear Mounted MAXXimum
 

I have an idea for a modification to my E-Maxx...I am planning on installing the G1 Single Speed Conversion and rotating the transmission and motor 180 degrees, so that the motor and speed control will be toward the back of the chassis, just in front of the rear shock tower. I can then reverse the direction of my Plettenberg MAXXimum so that the output shafts will rotate in the proper direction.

Has anyone tried this? Will it work?

Doesn't the Gorilla Motor Mount reverse the motor?

Yes it does, but you have to use the Gorilla X-Brace Chassis. I'm wanting to use the factory chassis.

You need to know that the fan on the maxximum is meant to turn on a particullar way too.

You could just flip the diffs.

Serum, you're absolutely right. If I change the direction, the fan won't blow air across the heatsink. I'll use Dafni's advice and flip the differentials. Thanks everyone!:D I'll post pics when I finish the project.

your going to wanna switch the bumpers.

Well, I 've got all of the parts on order and with any luck, they will be here by Saturday. I've ordered the G1 Single Speed Conversion, Fastlane F/R Aluminum Bulkheads, Strobe Slipper Clutch Kit and Ofna Plastic 51T Spur Gears. Here is a picture of what it looked like before I started the disassembly.

Here is a closeup. The box contains the receiver and UBEC.

Looks good, especially the Plett. This motor even looks killer. Want one.
Interesting antenna design, too.
But the batts, ooh, the batts. Definitely not something where you want to go for the cheap stuff. Just my opinion.

Please change your batts, thoose poor quality cells can even kill your 18.97..

Ja, my word. The Plett will suck the life out of them.
Batteries are the most important investment when it comes to BL.

Yeah, I agree, the batteries are cheap. What batteries should I use? How about these:Robotic Power Solutions I was looking at using the IB3800U NIMH Sub C cells in 7 cell packs.

Serum, just out of curiousity, how is the 18.97 being damaged by using the EPIC 6 cell packs. When I run the truck, the 18.97 and Plett, barely get warm at all, and the batteries get hot. I figured that the batteries were more at risk than anything?

if those batteries got loose contact one way or the other, or they have got a higher internal ressistance, you can damage your controller with braking. Because the motor is not able to store the energy back into the batteries, (that's what it does when you brake, it uses the internal resistance of your batteries for braking, with that comes that the energy is being stored back in to the batteriepack). so it would be fed from the both the motor and the batteries. That can kill the schulze.. And schulzes are known for that.

Those packs are cheap made, with thin tin plates, spotwelded.. Good till 15-20A, not for the 80-100A your system can eat..

I would not risc a controller that costs 20X as much then those batteries..

If you want the real thing, buy the GP3300's they deliver a bit more voltage on a high current load than the GP3700's (this voltage thing is what i heard from BK)

Thanks for the info.! I'm new to the electric RCs, since all of my previous RCs were Nitro, so I've got a lot to learn about how these electric systems work. I'll look into the GP 3300 cells.