Working with carbon fiber.
 

I have not worked carbon fiber before so I have a couple of questions. If anyone else has questions feel free to post them on this thread as well.

Can I use counter sink screws in carbon fiber? In other works, can I use a counter sink bit in cabon fiber? Would I need a cone shaped washer in this instance?

For basic cutting is it better to use a jig saw or dremel with cutting wheel?

I haven't worked with large sheets, but I have modified whatever my projects came with. It cuts very easy with a dremel cutting wheel. Using a sanding wheel works well too. I also used a counter sink bit with no problems without using cone washers. I'm sure if you torque on it, it might split or something...

Whatever you do, wear some type of face mask because it is dusty to work with.

I try to use air tools when I work with CF. I just use a die grinders with cutting wheels and wet cut my parts. It really cuts down on air borne particles. I have also counter sunk holes for screws. My battery tray is mostly CF and I had to counter sink the screw holes for the screws that go into the standoffs. It's taken some bad hits, but hasn't cracked yet. I would recommend using sharp bits though. CF does splinter pretty easily. I also use the biggest screws that I can for any particular application. It helps to spread the load out over a larger area and lessens the chance of stress cracks.

I too have had no problems with using countersunk screws in carbon fiber. The carbon fiber upper deck for my HPI MT2 came contersunk and I added a couple more for my modded brushless chassis.

Just take a q-tip, put some CA on it, and rub it around the countersink to prevent splitting for extra protection.

Also, if you tape the edges on both sides, then you'll prevent splitting when you cut.

Yeah I forgot to mention the ca trick.

Thanks guys, I'm making a battery deck for a 8ight buggy. I actually just made the deck out of aluminum and now I'm alredy redesigning it and this time around I'm going to use carbon fiber and a slightly different layout. It's kind of a setback, but it will be better in the end.

Just remember that CF is electrically conductive...

Geez Brian, I forgot that little tidbit of info. On the other hand, so is aluminum.

Yeah, but some people might forget it is conductive since it isn't metal.

My experience with CF; there are several grades. While some are tough as nails, others are easy to work on. both are okay to cut with a cutting will and the sanding drum. For countersunk holes it's something different. I had a HSS cobalt bit, which lost his sharp edges after 2 holes.. (it was only a 20 bucks bit :) )

Usually the sides of CF are electric conductive, since the top/bottom layer have got a rather thick layer of epoxy finish.

I used some paper-tape to draw the shapes on it, but i guess this is a rather common thing to do..

From what I've read, HSS bits wear down quickly when cutting CF and/or G10. CF particularly is very abrasive. One needs to use a carbide bit for better longetivity.

I'm glad you mentioned that I did not know and I would never have guessed that it was.

No problem. But Serum is right though; it's mostly on the sides where the actual carbon is exposed. The top surface usually has a decent layer of epoxy which is not conductive. Some CF has a thinner application of epoxy on the surface, like graphiteelegance stuff...

Just remember that CF dust is HORRIBLE for you. If you can, try to cut or grind with it in a shallow bowl of water, or with a little bit of water running over it to rinse it off.

This is probably only a good idea if you are using a compressor powered tool...since electricity wouldn't mix well with water (ie, no dremel).