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-   -   custom Quark case design (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6752)

zeropointbug 05.12.2007 05:31 PM

custom Quark case design
 
Here is a quick 'sketch' of a Quark case idea of mine. I don't have the proper measurements, so it might be off (and is). So now the top FET's would get cooling now, that part about the Quark really bugged me, a heat spreader would almost do nothing for cooling them. The power stage board will be pressed in between the blue plate and the case.

Not all the features I made on it yet, like the slots for the top cover, and slots for two end covers.


Click HERE They are the bottom 6 pics.

Also, I did catch a video of my BL maxx before the Quark died, it was pretty sick for power.

HERE

cabojoe 05.12.2007 06:13 PM

Yeah it's sick for power...you should build a ramp and jump that building in the backround!

zeropointbug 05.12.2007 06:22 PM

Yeah, jump the building and drive up the side of the it too... evil knievel!

The Quark case is same length, and hight as stock case, but is 12mm wider.

nieles 05.12.2007 06:32 PM

what about adding a little mass to the underside. so you can crew it on the motor mount like you do with the mount mike has in his store.

zeropointbug 05.12.2007 06:44 PM

Yeah, that's a great idea! How thick should the bottom be then for this?

Or should it be like screw on heatsink that mounts to the motor mount, so a person would have more options for mounting it? :027: Personally, I don't think it should thermal the way it is, as it would take alot more heat away from the FET's. But, for me, I like to go the extra mile.

jhautz 05.12.2007 07:19 PM

The case looks solid. I like it. I'd pay for it. Just make sure the stock pastic covers and all work on it. I want one thats anodized in black!

I really like the idea of having a spot on the end that will screw to the empty motor mount position like the RCM heatsink. I also agree that it could use more mass on the bottom.
Make sure you mill a few slots in the extra mass on the bottom to allow it to help it disipate heat to the air and a couple screw holes for mounting a fan too it also. I would make that plate that goes in between the boards out of copper to get the absolute best heat transmision possible. Also make sure you get a really good thermal compound on the ends of that plate where it attaches to the main case body.

How are you planning to attach the fets to the case and the middle plate? What keeps them in solid contact?

zeropointbug 05.12.2007 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhautz
The case looks solid. I like it. I'd pay for it. Just make sure the stock pastic covers and all work on it. I want one thats anodized in black!

I really like the idea of having a spot on the end that will screw to the empty motor mount position like the RCM heatsink. I also agree that it could use more mass on the bottom.
Make sure you mill a few slots in the extra mass on the bottom to allow it to help it disipate heat to the air and a couple screw holes for mounting a fan too it also. I would make that plate that goes in between the boards out of copper to get the absolute best heat transmision possible. Also make sure you get a really good thermal compound on the ends of that plate where it attaches to the main case body.

How are you planning to attach the fets to the case and the middle plate? What keeps them in solid contact?

Thanks for comments! :)

Black anodizing would look killer! The stock greyish anodizing would be nice also.

K, I think I will add 5-7mm on the bottom, but i also have to extend each end I just remembered, for motor and power wires. I will make the bottom a heatsink with the same fan mounts as the RC-monster one (not that it should need it, but still).

Yes, you would still use the top, and side covers with this, although it doesn't show the slots where they go yet. I was thinking whether to use alum. or copper for the center heatspreader, but I think you're right, copper may as well be used, as that is the most important part.

I am still wondering if mount the board in there will be okay, I know if you de-solder the motor wires it should be fine, but if you leave them on, I don't know, maybe it can be done.


If anyone is interested at this point, let me know, and let me here some feedback about it if you want one. :dft009::)

mach1stang 05.12.2007 09:29 PM

:004: sick emaxx man!!

BrianG 05.12.2007 09:39 PM

FYI: When you epoxy the internals in there, you may want to think about putting some epoxy on the caps. It won't be perfect, but should help pull some heat away from those caps...

zeropointbug 05.12.2007 10:27 PM

oh oh oh, no no, there will be no epoxy to be had in this case, just thermal paste, arctic silver. It does clamp the board, so you don't need/want epoxy, and you can always take it apart too.

I have to get the distance right between the two plates, as to get a good pressure (but not too much) on the FET's for good coupling.

I am just modifying it right now, with heatsink bottom, and motor mount holes. It should be good.

Thanks Mach1stang! :027:

zeropointbug 05.12.2007 11:16 PM

Alright, I now need to know the hole pattern of the RC-Monster heatsink.

What is the middle screw hole for on the heatsink? (motor mount ends)

What is the spacing of the fan mounting holes?

zeropointbug 05.13.2007 01:56 AM

I'm kinda stumped on what fin design I should make on the bottom of this. I need to make it so they are durable, so you can strap the heatsink down onto something (FLM chassis for instance), or on the motor mount and use air flow effectively. I'm kinda leaning for serrated fins

Also, I really don't think fans will be needed at all on the thing, with a good fin structure on the bottom. It should keep the FET's very cool and happy, would be able to run all day long.

Does anyone with CNC experience know what the smallest feature (flute/bit) can be machined? Is it 2mm? And what about the end of the bit/flute, are the small ones round or flat, or both?

Thanks for the help.

zeropointbug 05.13.2007 03:26 AM

4 Attachment(s)
Here is what I am thinking with an integrated heatsink, it looks pretty good too. Too bad I spent all day designing it when I have to completely redesign it when I get my Quark back (for measurements).

A4DTM 05.13.2007 06:28 PM

zero, I hope you don't mind, I got bored and played w/ your design some. thoughts?

http://a4dtm.com/quark/zp/4.jpg
http://a4dtm.com/quark/zp/3.jpg
http://a4dtm.com/quark/zp/1.jpg
http://a4dtm.com/quark/zp/2.jpg

zeropointbug 05.13.2007 06:38 PM

:018: :018: :018:


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