mamba max not giving power to motor...
 

hey guys, i just got a mamba max esc to use in my emaxx. Im running 2 7 cell packs and ive taken the red wire from the mm esc so i can use my 5 cell hump pack...but, the motor wont turn even after I had programmed it...so, whats the deal? when I plug it in, the lights come on, but i get no beeping.

Is the receiver pack charged up? Also, did you calibrate your transmitter to the MM?

ya, i just peaked the reciever pack up this morning. The transmitter(dx3.0) is also calibrated to it...and i cant update or change anything in the castlelink software

What version of castle link and firmware do you have on the MM? There have been some cases of issues with certain versions...

i have 1.09 on the mm esc and i had 2.24, but updated to 2.25...i have another mm esc(in my stampede) and it works just fine

Well, I know I've heard of that happenening before, but not sure what people did to fix it. You might have to wait until someone else who has had that happen chimes in...

k, well thanks for the help...

OK, so the lights come on, but nothing happens? Was it working before? What is your gearing?

I had this happen with one of my MM escs. I had it way overgeared and I wasn't paying attention while it was cogging. I let it cog for a second too long. Fried the FETs. Lights would come on; I could plug it into the computer and program it, but nothing else. Now power to the motor.

Smell it. Does anything smell burnt?

Contact Castle, sounds like there is something wrong with the mm!

no, it know its not over geared, casue the motor has no pinion! thanks for the help guys, im going to give castle a call tomorrow.


btw, can I use screws from the chassis to the heatsinks to hold the esc down? or will the screws casue a short in the batteries/esc? the screws would touch the aluminum of the motor mount for my emaxx

I've thought of doing that with one of my MM escs to see how is works. If you use 3mm self tapping screws, they will go right between the fins of the sink and have very good holding power.

I don't think that you'll have to worry about a short, as long as it's only the heatsink that's touching the chassis. The MM heatsink is anodized all the way around and anodizing doesn't conduct electricity. Just make sure. Use a DMM to see if you can get a closed circuit on the sink with the leads. I've taken advantage of anodizing as an electrical insulator in MANY electronic projects and have never had any problems; but all of the parts that I used were type III anodized. I don't know if type II (like on the MM) is also non conductive.

ya, when/if mine gets replaced, ill test it out

hey guys, i know the mm esc and 5700 motor are limited at 12 cells, but what if I ran 13? i dont think there would be much of a prob, so im gonna test it out...hopefully i wont have to send to mm esc's to castle

I'm not understanding what you are saying. Are you saying that you are going to see if it will run on 13 cells, when it won't run on 12?

no, it will run on 12 cells(the mm esc/5700 that works-i have two systems) im just wondering if there will be that big of a problems if i do it once......

update-I called castle and they said just keep trying to update it. It finally did/does work(it will update and stuff), but now the switch got ripped off where it attaches on the circuit board, so I now i cant turn it on...any suggestions? I would solder it, but the little contacts that are supposed to be soldered got ripped off by my darn wheel.