Soldering Deans
 

Is there a specific type of solder used when soldering deans plugs? I had someone at work helping me try to get the wiring soldered to the deans and we had a hard time.

Thanks,
Nick

I just use any type of electronic solder. Just flux and tin the connector and wire first.

It helps to use something like vice-grips (not too hard though!) to hold the connector so it doesn't move around while you're trying to solder. And use a properly sized soldering iron. A typical 25W iron may have trouble unless you use a larger tip and let it heat a while before attempting to solder.

I have a 30w that would struggle to solder deans and i swore at the thing everytime i tried. It was a real effort to get enough heat into the tinned wire and the tinned deans plug to melt both together.

I bought a 40w and it made life so much easier i got carried away with my soldering my deans I forget to put heat shrink on! It practically melts them both instantly :)

another thing I always do is plug 2 deans together before you solder so you dont warp the tabs on the connector.

If you warp the tabs on the connector, you got things way too hot. You need a better soldering iron that gets the job done quicker.

I kind of worded that wrong I meant to say that the plastic on the connector can get hot and the tabs will move and possibly not lign up right when you plug two of them together.

I understood what you meant. The plastic should not get so hot that the connectors move around. When I solder my deans, the iron is not on the joint for more than a second or two.

What type of soldering iron do you have and what type of solder do you use? We finished getting my deans installed today, but it took a while to get everything hot and finished???

Thanks guys,
Nick

I have the same results as AAngel, only asecond or two. I have a cheapy $6 60w hobbico iron form my LHS. The 80w weller that I've had for 20+ years bit the bucket and I have not bought a new one yet. The 60w hobbico with a flat tip works great for everything except circuit boards.

The real trick is the broad tip. If you can get an iron that will get up to around 700 degrees with a broad tip, it only needs to hold that temp for a few seconds to get the job done.

I use a Metcal MX500 soldering station with a 700* 5mm chisel tip. Like I said, a second or two and I use 12 gauge wires. A good budget soldering station can be had for a bit over $50, if you shop around. I'd check circuitspecialists.com first. If you don't mind spending a bit of money, check into the Hakko stations. IMO, the Metcal is the rolls royce of conventional stations, but it is pricey.

Well put! Too much green for me to output on a station though.

I like the diesel trucks of the solding station world. The Wellers, they have them ranging in price from $20'ish for a standard iron to well over $200 for a station type with changable irons. Mine that just died I have had for over 20 years and my grandpa had it for a year or ten before I got it.

The Wellers are very popular for the reasons that you stated. They are inexpensive, dependable, and last forever. I just like the style of the wand that comes with the Hakkos and Metcals better.

Just go by circuitspecialists.com They have a house brand that isn't bad at all. It looks like a Hakko, but I don't think that the power supply is quite on par. It is a good station for the money though. Oh, and I wouldn't waste my money getting the one with the digital readout, the one with the dial is fine. I used to use two of these, before I got my Metcal with the two wands.

I use a soldering gun with a dual output of 150/230W for EVERYTHING. I'm not sure what temperatures this correlates with but it gets the job done, FAST.