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-   -   brushless revo self design frame (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7332)

remie 06.23.2007 12:28 PM

brushless revo self design frame
 
I wanted a BL truck/buggy for a long time.

Then the idea came to convert a revo to BL with my own desgined frame.

I Started to draw with the following spec. in mind:

- the frame has to carry 16 nihm cells (maybe a batt. tray for 7 cells each side)
- center differentieel
- 1 steering servo
- rc tekno reciever box
- quark 125b with Feigao 8XL

The frame is nearly finished, now I have to deside wether I'll use battery trays or just battery slots.
and what thikness I 'm gonne use for the parts.

I you have some tips for me I would like to hear them!
feel free to comment!

here are some pics of the frame in designing fase (some things are changed now)

here you can see the upperdeck and the "TVP's"
http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...pperdeck~0.GIF

here you can ses the battery slots
http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...%20frame~0.GIF

this is a sketch of the frame in the "beginning"
http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...naamloos~0.JPG

gasshead 06.23.2007 01:46 PM

wow, that looks great, very similar to the G-maxx chassis but with your own unique flair

Eccentric 06.25.2007 02:02 AM

Waterjet or laser cutting?

Looks like a solid design. Not much to critique. I would be a little worried about the offset of the front and rear holes on the lower plate. Not that is should be a problem cutting as much as strength.

What is your planned layout for electronics?

Are you going to be supporting the rear of the motor some how?

asianplayer 06.25.2007 02:11 AM

wow looks good, i agree with eccentric the motor looks like it is just hanging there. but i like the curved looks.

remie 06.25.2007 04:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eccentric
Waterjet or laser cutting?

Looks like a solid design. Not much to critique. I would be a little worried about the offset of the front and rear holes on the lower plate. Not that is should be a problem cutting as much as strength.

What is your planned layout for electronics?

Are you going to be supporting the rear of the motor some how?

I'm going to let it lasercut

de offset of the holes on the front and the rear lower plate have changed in de last desings.

for electronics, in de front there will be one steering servo, on the other side there will come a tekno reciever box.
for the esc I will make a plate that I can attach on the side of the TVP's

I don't know if I'm going to support the rear end of the motor.
Would the rc-monster motor clamp help to support the motor?

suicideneil 06.25.2007 10:32 AM

In theory it should do, plus it will prevent the endbells fron popping of the motor. So long as the motor mount is nice and thick, and the mounting screws are long enough (but not too long so that they go inside the motor), it should be fine. I like the idea of TVPs, should make the chassis much stiffer.

Gustav 06.25.2007 11:28 AM

Looks awesome! how about designing some replacement braces for the gorilla chassis' that incorporate a central motor and centre diff,a conversion for a conversion so to say.

remie 06.25.2007 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gustav
Looks awesome! how about designing some replacement braces for the gorilla chassis' that incorporate a central motor and centre diff,a conversion for a conversion so to say.

I could do that, but when I do that I can't say that I draw that frame myself:005:

ps. what thickness shall I make the chassis?

Serum 06.25.2007 12:01 PM

well, it practically is a gmaxx chassis, the only difference are the braces and some shapes, why now go that route?

TexasSP 06.25.2007 12:32 PM

1/8 or 3mm should provide the strength you need. Maybe up to 3/16 or 5mm on the motor mount (although I still think 1/8th would do it on the motor mount too). The support braces would probably need to be 3/16 or 5mm for sure to allow for screw holes.

One more note. I would not try laser cutting the screw holes, it will turn out messy as aluminum creates to much slag on the laser even if the setup is perfect. The screw holes should be done on a CNC Milling machine.

remie 10.12.2007 02:25 PM

It's time for a little update.

everything is cut from 3 and 2mm 7075 alu, the motor/diffmount is made from 7mm alu.
it's nearly finished now, I only have to bend the front and back kickup and make some spacers.
then I can finish it (polisch it).

here are some pics.

http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...0/DSC00559.JPG

http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...0/DSC00560.JPG

BrianG 10.12.2007 02:55 PM

Nice! How much does it weigh?

Quote:

Originally Posted by remie (Post 122659)
I only have to bend the front and back kickup...

Actually, the back has a kick-down on the stock setup...

JThiessen 10.12.2007 03:18 PM

Have you test fit the bulkheads in it yet? How did you measure the hole locations for the bulkheads? (I'd be interested in obtaining that data from you, if possible).

If it were me, I'd C'sink as many of those fasteners as possible.

btw, looks great!

suicideneil 10.12.2007 05:32 PM

Now that's MT pron right there. It looks so professional and factory, its truelly stunning. +1 to countersinking as many screws as possible & using countersunk allen screws/bolts- that would be the icing on the cake.

david lamontagn 10.12.2007 06:18 PM

Have you find a rear center drive shaft long enough to plug the center diff output and the rear diff???

Realy nice man, a piece of art.
And more, if your chassis realy work well, PM me and i'll take one for sure.

Always dream of a revo with 1/8 center diff.


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