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7s2p pack on E-Revo??
Hey guys, I will be converting a Revo 3.3 to BL soon (as soon as stuff gets here), running 7s2p A123 pack on 1512/3D (1700kv).
How will I go about mounting this pack (large) onto the Revo chassis? Should I modify the chassis and make a mount for it? I don't want it to be too wide as to interfere with the body, and I would like it to be as low as possible to get the CG down. This one will be a tricky one for sure, I almost want to use some flightpowers for this one... |
Hmm, can you split them up? Try mounting all the elecs in the center, then if your doing a G-maxx, put them in the batts slot, maybe 7 on one and 7 on the other or 3 on one and 4 on the other as I blanked on weather 7s2p has 14 or 7 cells ;).
Or, make a plate over the shocks and mount some batts or the elecs. |
I would start by looking at laying them down in rows along the right side, and try to put all the electronics on the motor side. However, your quark is quite big, so space will be tight. I don't know if it would fit where the Th servo goes..
You may be forced to put the Q125 over the shocks (PITA) or stand all the cells up. Standing the cells up will give enough room. I had to do this on mine: http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...4/25ab855f.jpg But I also designed my truck to accomodate nimh, lipos and A123s, and retain manual brakes. If you design it just for A123s you may come up w/ something more optimal. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...4/1a2510bf.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...4/b4b7638e.jpg |
This is the stock Revo 3.3 chassis we're talking here, there is no batt tray.
Also, I have to fit that 'monster' Monster 125B (Avatar) somewhere too, maybe on a mount on top of shocks like you said? Do you know how much room there is between the revo tranny and the body as far as width on the right side? I basically have the whole right side to work with here, so either two seperate 7s packs on each side (not my favorite idea), or one whole 7s2p brick on the right side. That fact that it's an 'odd' 7s pack makes it more difficult, IMO. |
Going with a maxx tranny may be a possibility too to free up both sides for the batts.
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Thanks Finnster, does the body hit that batt tray at all?
This makes me wonder, can Mike make a large custom battery box, that is sealed? Like the TrakPower packs. That would be ultimately what I would want for this, nice and clean, protected, and just plain would look cool. ZPB |
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EDIT: Oh, and is this the 3.3 Revo? |
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Between the center tranny "bell" of the chassis and a stock body is ~50-55mm. My tray is ~48mm +1/4". The body touches, but is not pushed out. I put a side guard on to protect/secure lipos. With A123s you could cut this out. You could angle the tray down if needed to get some space. Really you are going measure the chassis out w/ your batts to see how it can fit together. I curious to how you going to build the pack, as a 7S is an odd #. A double shotgun pack may be nice and low cg, but will be tricky to fit. |
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See fitted body, it doesn't pooch. This is even a narrow Proline body. Other bodies may be thinner or wider. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...4/69268751.jpg |
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Anyways, there sure isn't much room to work with on a Revo compared to an FLM maxx chassis! But, when done right, the Revo's just look so excuse my language, damn nice! I am thinking one 7s2p brick on the right side, in a black plastic case (if Mike can make one), having the cells laying up and down? I hope that will work, that is definitely one option. |
Yes, I will be using the Revo tranny w/ mod.
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I think it may work. If the Revo is tight, look at some truggy bodies. I know for a fact the Hellfire body fits the 3.3
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Yeah, one of the beauties of the Revo is also one of its difficulties. The shocks lay right in the middle of the chassis and take up some room. You can mount things over them, but it makes it a pain to have to service them, so I prefer layouts that avoid this as much as possible. What goes over is hopefully easy/quick to move
Also, the chassis is highly contoured and angled, so it can make things more difficult vs a flat truggy chassis. Worth it once its done tho. |
I am going to see if I can get a decently matched pack of 14 cells (A123) from the 21 cells that I have. I had to buy another dewalt pack because I charged (by accident) the 7.2v part of the pack on the 18v setting.... idiot. If you never saw what happened Finnster, check HERE
I say I want to get the most alike (matched) cells because I hate balancing.... more over, when there is only a small difference between cells, the balance does not get any worse because of the LiNP chemistry (you may know). |
I just emailed Mike about making a plastic case for the battery, hope he can.
I swear someone on this forum (or more) had a plastic case/box made by Mike IIRC? |
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