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Does any body have a fix for?
The MIP center cvd's for the emaxx? The pin keeps comming out? It happened a few times and I ground a flat spot in the pin and used blue locktite on the set screw. Maybe I will have to use red loctite.
Tsais has a nice setup but they do not offer the centers for the emaxx. Does anybody know a company that makes a set that is reliable? |
Can you put a piece of heat shrink over the joint to retain the pin? Not familiar with the emaxx but I used to do this with other cvd's.
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I had to weld mine closed on my Emaxx.
I junked my maxx and still have all the brushless upgrades if you need some spare parts. |
the MIP centers for the emaxx are THE worst waste of money for the emaxx, and will most likely do more damage to other parts of your truck if it happens again (they did to mine).
i bought UE dogbone center shafts and never had a problem again - you can get virtually the same thing here from Mike, just without the UE sticker shock. shoot mike an email - you'll want two of the 72mm dogbones he has listed, with the output cups. you won't be sorry - and then you can throw the MIP junk as hard as you can. |
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- Traxxas CVD centers - Rdlogics/RCbest axles (just be sure to get the carbon steel versions!) They held up against my P-Berg Maxximum setup without any signs of wear. |
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I never had any problems with the MIP's in my e-maxx after I put a flat spot on the pins.
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it's great others have had no problems, but all i can advise is to use them at your own risk. i went through 3 sets of pins - i didn't 'bulletproof' the first set, so my bad, but i did notch the pin in the 2nd and 3rd sets - they flew out at high speed, and put gaping holes in my chassis (plastic stock), and BENT my input and output tranny shafts (the centers came slightly off the ouput shaft and wobbled, which at high speed bent everything else).
another extra step i even took was to make sure to have the 'groove walls' be at 90 degrees to the bottom of the groove i put in, and not angled - if it's angled, the grub screw is at greater risk of just sliding up and out. if the 'wall' of the groove is perpendicular, it should hold. 'should' being the key word - mine didn't hold. and i had a proper allen tool, and used RED loctite on the 3rd set, and let it cure. maybe mine was just a fluke - but those things sure make me nervous now. |
Yeah I agree the MIP centershafts are a terrible product. You would think they would fix the problem.
I just emailed Mike, I'll see if he has the 72mm shafts Thanks |
The MIP's make good centershafts, it's just a matter of tightening them down HARD and use a new setscrew after every rebuild.
with a flatspot they take a serious beating without falling apart. I don't remember if they can use 2 setscrews, but i never ever had issues with mine (besides the pins of the dogbones wearing out) |
Since there is less travel on the centers than the out drives the cv joint beomes less important. Mike made a set of steel dogbones for me. I haven't had any problems with my Neu 2200kv.
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I agree Serum. MIP's is a matter of build. I used red loctite on mine with no flat spot on the pin at all. Never had a problem. Another key to this is you NEED to let the loctite cure before driving, otherwise, you are wasting your time. I gave mine AT LEAST 24 hours to cure. Patience is the key.
But I will have to say also, that dogbones are much better, I use the aluminum ones that come with the V1 Slipperential. |
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again - did all of that, and still had problems. i'm not trying to argue - just trying to forewarn anyone looking for new maxx center shafts to buy from Mike instead. you'll be happy you did. :smile: |
I see where Mike sells the - RC-Monster Steel 72mm Dogbone is that 1 or 2 dog bones? Where are the cups? Will the cup on my diff from MIP work with that? if so then where are the cups for the trans shaft?
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you'll have to email him and ask for the cups. i'm not sure if the dogbones fit MIP shafts, but you'll still need 2 additional cups (4 total for dogbones, vs. 2 total for MIPs).
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