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Shafts 3.3 or cvds???
So what do you think? I have to change the out drives on my diffs either way, but can't decide. I have both type of drive shafts what should I go with?
3.3s are lighter, but not as strong. cvds are heavier but stronger. Decisions decisions?? Thanks for the advice. mark |
If the CVD's are stronger then I'd say go for them. I don't think the extra weight will hurt the truck power wise with the set up you running...... :lol:
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I twisted two sets of 3.3 shafts so I went with the Traxxas CVD's. I thought 3.3 shafts were unbreakable but they're still plastic. No problems since.
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Don't the traxxas cvd's and sliders both use the same outdrive since they're both made to fit traxxas diffs? So if you have both you may as well try both and see which you like better.
You could put the sliders on the front since they don't need to be as strong and use the cvd's on the rear. Then you have a spare set. |
I always had CVDs till I got RPM arms and bent like 3 of them so I moved to sliders and no problems since. They handle brushless power with ease and only problem is arm clearance as they are so thick. This does not matter right now that much as my maxx is in race mode.
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The revo sliders have stood up to all my BL racing setups and come to think of it, I haven't actually seen anyone twist/break a slider when running a racing setup.
If you are able to twist one then I would consider putting your revo on a diet :lol: Running a center diff will also help unload stress to the sliders. |
Amen to that.
The 3.3 shafts are tough; the only problem are the carriers; they tend to go from time to time. They are cheap to replace. I never saw a 3.3 shaft imitating a pretzel. Plus they are cheap and easy to replace. |
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Thanks for all the input. I think I'll install the stub and start with the 3.3. |
I got rid of original axle carriers right after first pivot ball popped out after a small crash. they got replaced by New Era Models ones and those things are tough and use oversized bearings both inner and outer
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Cup and bone:
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL143.../295570302.jpg 3.3 shaft. The stub adapter is neede to fit the right side of the pic below: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMJG8&P=7 |
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lincpimp I believe you are right I use the same setup on my maxx only with the mip cvds. It has the same problem with spacing, but because I am racing my maxx and I am running it just a tad higher than bones level it rests inside the cup perfect. If I extended the arms fully they would fall out, but since I run them bones level they are fine. I also have the adapters mike sells but have not used them, but it seems if i did it would fix the problem because the mip outdrives are longer and should fix the problem. I just don't feel like rebuilding the diff for the 5 time and it works for my application.
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I am a basher and need the travel. Here is what it looks like level:
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL143.../295570300.jpg |
Once you put the shafts in the diffs you should be ok to run the cups that came with the cvds, they will be longer than the hb diff cups.
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