14.4v a123?
 

how would an A123 racing 9.9v 2300 pack(30c constant 60c burst) with the turbo module(bumps it up to 14.4v!) do with a mamba max ESC and a feigao 7xl? i have been trying to find a motor that will do good on 3s since i dont have the money to put into 14.8v of lipo. but how would 14.4v of li-ion do? or should i go ahead and spend a little extra money(about $60 more or so...) to get twin 2s li-po packs?

that thing is only good for 200W. Running a monster at 14.4V it will only allow 13.8A through lol, no good. If your strap for cash build your own packs. Get 8 cells from this guy and make a 4s2p pack. It would be 8000mah 25C 30C burst which will deliver a more respectible 200A continuous 240A burst for about $200.

revracer if u are going to pay that much for a 14.4 volt batt than why not take that $10 or $20 dollars more for the 14.8 volt also check this lipo site outhttp:]//home.comcast.net/~truerc/ready_pack/ready_packs.htm
they are not the best on communication but they are cheap. the batt is on down the page of the site.

whoa... $40 for a 2s pack... what if i built twin 2s packs instead? i want something that i can run in all of my cars. tc, buggy, race truck, and my revo. how do you build a lipo pack though? id be worried about that?

Just make sure you dont short anything! :P I've made a few 2s and 3s packs from the ebay guy. the + and - tabs are marked, so you just solder together in whatever config you want. When I did it they were the older style U series without copper tabs, and only 20C discharge. A bit harder to solder on one of the tabs (anode I think?) but since they are copper now it would make it a sinch. I guess you also need some decent wire and some good high current connectors.

ok well i would use deans 12awg and TRX connectors... but what about balancing tabs? hows that work? and i checked out that trueRC site and it looks like all the batteries are only 10-15c rates... the 8000 packs only have 80A and 120A max. my 5000 maxamps puts out 100A constant, like 150 burst or something

BrainG R/C calc link in his signature has a thing that shows you wiring diagrams for lipo packs.

Basically you have the first balance wire going to the negative terminal of the battery, then each pin along the connector goes between each cell, until the last one is at the positive terminal of the battery... I guess if your not 100% confident with it, it could be a bit risky...

Nothing against the maxamps 5k batts but the true rc 8000 packs are superior. You will also get better runtime. Most 4s setups do not pull over 80 amps, you could with a 3s setup in a eavy truck, but that is just dumb. Or you could buy a pair of trakpower lipo packs, the gold hard case 4900 mah 2s packs.

too expensive for me. the pack and charger cost $120. i just cant do that... so the true rc are the way to go huh? what about the 4000 packs. something smaller that can fit into smaller cars... how would they do if i ran two?

I have read that the Truerc Lipos are under rated. I have only read good things about them.

what about protek?

Can't beat the price, but I wonder where they get their cells from?

im curious about them too. $80 for a 4s 4k pack. not bad.

I have 3 of these that appear to be doing OK.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6351

Not a ton of run time or cycles on them yet so who knows how they will last long term, but I have a few cycles on them and they appear to be decent. No problems and plenty of power. I do recomend that these are balanced after every cycle as they tend to go slightly out of balance after every run. (Not like my flightpowers that rarly ever go out of balance.) But all in all they seem to be performing OK, just make sure to take care of them by balancing frequently and they should do OK untill you are willing to get something better.

i had the 8ah true rc packs and they were great.

id recommend them.