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DrKnow65 · **Mamba Max Tweaks and Mods Continued -** 10.21.2007, 12:15 PM

(first post here, I will try now to be too lengthy with follow ups)
I recently purchased a used Mamba Max 5700KV system intended for my also newly purchased used Losi XXXT (ebay goodies). The XXXT was in almost new condition, the MM was just the opposite... and needed imediate attention.

I have been reading for hours on end about the different brushless ESC's and settled on the MM. I found huge volumes of information here at MRC, so I was prepared for some of the issues with this system. I was hoping by buying a used (older) MM I might get a better quality unit as I have heard the manufacturing hasd gotten poor in recent times. (I have read that) This is the second generation controller (newer style FET's).

The unit I received would have been a severe disappointment had I not read and pondered the original "Mamba Max Tweaks and Mods" that is I believe in the temporary site? That thread prepared me for opening up the unit, seperating the boards, and dealing with the (extremely) poorly mounted heat sink. ( I could see gaps between the FET's and heat sink with the ESC still assembled )

So now we are here--- pic's to follow when I figure that out...

I have seperated and cleaned the boards, last owner must have driven (or submerged?) the car in mud. I did make sure it functioned befor tearing down.
Removed the factory 13awg wires in preperation for new 10awg's. Removed the original caps. Removed the heat sink and adhesive. And prepared the boards for re-assembly.

Here is where the new thread comes into play.

I would like you opinions of where to go from here with what I would like to have when this project is complete. The goal for the XXXT/MM combo I will run is fairly simple. I want a reliable, glitch free, efficient, yet powerful 1/10 scale truck to run at the local track (no ROAR BS) in multiple classes (stock, mod-6 cell brushed, and lipo brushless), and general make my budies look bad bashing when it's too quiet to run nitro. Yes I still run nitro, I started electric then when to nitro and now I'm back to electric...

I have a MaxAmps 8000mah 7.4v on the way, new Imax B6 charger, my 3PM-2.4Ghz fasst radio, a JR Z9100S servo for steering, and the already mentioned MM 5700KV system (that I will run 7.4v and 11.1v lipo's and IB4200 nimh 6-cell packs with 24degree stock brushed, 19T brushed, and of course the 5700KV brushless with the possibility of other brushless cans later).

I plan on configuring the MM differently in a new enclosure (original looks like it was used for a motor guard). I will mount boards vertically, extend the bus wires between the boards so I can run 6.5mm copper heat sinks on both sides of the power board (cool all the fets's equally). and run 25mm fans in a pusher/ puller setup vertically. I think the combo will come out roughly 89 grams, 75mm long, 29mm tall, and 27mm wide). Basically it will look like a brick with fans at both ends and the part of the power board that the motor/ battery wires connect to coming out the top (like a mohawk) front to rear.

Now the questions...

1) Is there a way to move/extend the data port to get it to point up (or out the same side at the motor leads, thinking of the original unit)?

2) When upgrading the 3 caps on the power board is it necessary to keep them 330uF? or can I go larger or more? will that help heat, efficiency, or RFI?
(refer to MM tweaks and mods)

3) Will extending the bus wires between boards have a negative effect?

4) Can I use 3 6800uF caps on the opposite side of the chassis on the battery circuit to help with supply voltage/weight balance?
(also refer to MM tweaks and mods)

5) I plan on using a CC BEC, shielded wires for signals from receiver, and a FMA 4s DPM... Can I shield the "3 motor wire group" (common ground for all shielding) also, or will that inductive current turn the rest of the shielded wire into an antenna increasing the glitch potential as opposed to decreasing it?

More questions later as they come up. I will try to get pictures up soon.

I would like to thank all of the guys here at RCM and especiaaly those of you who posted in the original MM tweaks and mods thread...

GriffenRU being at the top of the thanks list!

	(#1)
DrKnow65 RC-Monster Aluminum Offline Posts: 998 Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Colorado	Mamba Max Tweaks and Mods Continued - 10.21.2007, 12:15 PM (first post here, I will try now to be too lengthy with follow ups) I recently purchased a used Mamba Max 5700KV system intended for my also newly purchased used Losi XXXT (ebay goodies). The XXXT was in almost new condition, the MM was just the opposite... and needed imediate attention. I have been reading for hours on end about the different brushless ESC's and settled on the MM. I found huge volumes of information here at MRC, so I was prepared for some of the issues with this system. I was hoping by buying a used (older) MM I might get a better quality unit as I have heard the manufacturing hasd gotten poor in recent times. (I have read that) This is the second generation controller (newer style FET's). The unit I received would have been a severe disappointment had I not read and pondered the original "Mamba Max Tweaks and Mods" that is I believe in the temporary site? That thread prepared me for opening up the unit, seperating the boards, and dealing with the (extremely) poorly mounted heat sink. ( I could see gaps between the FET's and heat sink with the ESC still assembled ) So now we are here--- pic's to follow when I figure that out... I have seperated and cleaned the boards, last owner must have driven (or submerged?) the car in mud. I did make sure it functioned befor tearing down. Removed the factory 13awg wires in preperation for new 10awg's. Removed the original caps. Removed the heat sink and adhesive. And prepared the boards for re-assembly. Here is where the new thread comes into play. I would like you opinions of where to go from here with what I would like to have when this project is complete. The goal for the XXXT/MM combo I will run is fairly simple. I want a reliable, glitch free, efficient, yet powerful 1/10 scale truck to run at the local track (no ROAR BS) in multiple classes (stock, mod-6 cell brushed, and lipo brushless), and general make my budies look bad bashing when it's too quiet to run nitro. Yes I still run nitro, I started electric then when to nitro and now I'm back to electric... I have a MaxAmps 8000mah 7.4v on the way, new Imax B6 charger, my 3PM-2.4Ghz fasst radio, a JR Z9100S servo for steering, and the already mentioned MM 5700KV system (that I will run 7.4v and 11.1v lipo's and IB4200 nimh 6-cell packs with 24degree stock brushed, 19T brushed, and of course the 5700KV brushless with the possibility of other brushless cans later). I plan on configuring the MM differently in a new enclosure (original looks like it was used for a motor guard). I will mount boards vertically, extend the bus wires between the boards so I can run 6.5mm copper heat sinks on both sides of the power board (cool all the fets's equally). and run 25mm fans in a pusher/ puller setup vertically. I think the combo will come out roughly 89 grams, 75mm long, 29mm tall, and 27mm wide). Basically it will look like a brick with fans at both ends and the part of the power board that the motor/ battery wires connect to coming out the top (like a mohawk) front to rear. Now the questions... 1) Is there a way to move/extend the data port to get it to point up (or out the same side at the motor leads, thinking of the original unit)? 2) When upgrading the 3 caps on the power board is it necessary to keep them 330uF? or can I go larger or more? will that help heat, efficiency, or RFI? (refer to MM tweaks and mods) 3) Will extending the bus wires between boards have a negative effect? 4) Can I use 3 6800uF caps on the opposite side of the chassis on the battery circuit to help with supply voltage/weight balance? (also refer to MM tweaks and mods) 5) I plan on using a CC BEC, shielded wires for signals from receiver, and a FMA 4s DPM... Can I shield the "3 motor wire group" (common ground for all shielding) also, or will that inductive current turn the rest of the shielded wire into an antenna increasing the glitch potential as opposed to decreasing it? More questions later as they come up. I will try to get pictures up soon. I would like to thank all of the guys here at RCM and especiaaly those of you who posted in the original MM tweaks and mods thread... GriffenRU being at the top of the thanks list!