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09.20.2008, 01:32 AM
I always calibrate as per ESC manuals, which for this was everything at 100%. I remember having to readjust everything due to running nitro motors on the same model.
It was 60% of the maximum available power at WOT....I think that's how it works.
I might try the 2084kv on a 14t pinion to see what it's like & if temps are very low try the 15t pinion again.
I'm now wanting to shy away from high kv motors as I want long runtimes for racing.
Also, I'll be working at my mates LHS ( I called him today & he was trying to convince me to come down as they were busy. hehehe) & we're going to be making up complete BL conversion kits comprising of mount, motor, ESC, pinion, battery & tray for a lowish price.
So, I'm guinea pigging alot of things to see where I'm going wrong in order to be assured that if I/we convert a car or sell the kit with explicit instructions on what to do, that it won't come back fried.
Basically, make a dikhead proof conversion kit that can whip a nitro without the reliability issues.
Thanks for the help fellas.
Losi SCTE SC4 Pro 4000kv, Tekin RX8, 2S
MP7.5 Kanai III Tekno Neu 1515/2.5D 1700kv MM 4S
LST 2 Carbon CC 1717 1Y 1580kv MM 6S
Futaba 3PKS Spektrum Pro
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